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Discussion Starter #1
Thought it'd be novel to tow my MN12 racer on a trailer...with another MN12 :D Max load will be 5000lbs, and I can move the weight around to make things easier on the tonge. but, it's obviously not a good idea :)
but the questions remain:
how much weight can th MN12 take on its tounge? (w/hitch kit)
How much can a stock one tow? I'm currently making 273 lb ft at the wheels (not a spike, and deffinately not stock), and a tranny rebuild is in my future anyways ;)
Going by 20% driveline loss, that puts me at 341lb ft at the crank, 31 more then the F250 5.8 of the same year, 6 more then the first F250 5.4. I'm worried about the rest of the car.

so, how long could I get away with towing this with this?
 

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Well I towed my parents van about 1 mile down the street so we could replace the timing belt on it (can't do it on a military base unless in an auto hobby shop) I was driving only about 25, but my car had no trouble at all towing 4000lbs.
 

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The Band, not the Disease!
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Look in your drivers side door jam... it will have the towing capacity on there.. I think the last time I checked, you cant have more than 3,000lbs. It's not about how much the engine can pull, but its rather how much weight the car can handle without breaking something =) A truck can have a LOT more weight because it has a very long frame.. i dont think our car's frame goes all the way to the rear end. What's the frame called? I can't remember... someone help =P
 

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1. chassis

2. what does a long frame have to do with it? or are you just talking as a means to mount the hitch?
 

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I towed my SC up the driveway (a hill) with my LX.
Has anyone ever pulled anything a distance, like a motor cylce trailer or somthing. I have a 1000lb (including trailer weight) vintage hydroplane I would like to pull with my LX.

Jim
 

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I towed a 87 VW jetta with my 95 V8 tbird. I didnt use a trailor though. We did it the old rope way. Front car does the gas and back car does the breaks. Scarey if you havent done it before and the fact that if I didnt do it right I risk running the jetta right into the back of the tbird. But it all worked out good. I tied it to the back frame (the thing up top of the mufflers, is that the bumper or the frame?) and then on to the front of the jetta. I towed it about 5 miles but I was going like 20 MPH at max. It was crazy because I had old ladies honking at me for going to slow. There was no wear on where I tied it to though.

-Shawn
 

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Not a Thunderbird but a similar sized car. We hauled our trailer for our soap box derby cars from Nebraska to Ohio (about 900 miles) with a Cordoba. The trailer was about 6 feet high, ground to top of roof. It didn't weigh a lot though. The Cordoba was in real good shape, low milage, we were second owner after old people that used it as a church car. that car didn't appreciate having to tow that trailer at all, even with the auxilary tranny cooler dad installed before the trip. I wouldn't recommend hauling a trailer that sticks up in the air very high any kind of real distance.
 

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I wouldn't do it. I towed a a 2500 camper grand marquis and it was fine. I had to move a 4000 car with the same car and it was too much for the merc. Breaking on a bend would push the merc like a toy. The merc is bigger than a bird. I don't think I would try over 2000 with a bird.
 

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Don't forget most cars frames have to be built to support their own weight in case of being towed. So your car should be able to handle at least the weight of your car, and then some as most car designers build up cars to hold extra weight (junk in the back, trunk, glove box, spare tire, and safety equipment).
 

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I wouldn't dream of hauling that much weight any kind of distance. You think our cars stop bad now? Add 5000 lbs to the weight and then prevent proper weight redistribution during braking and you're asking for an accident.

Then there's the engineering aspect. Think about the rear suspension attachment points. The top and bottom of the hubs, the top and bottom of the rear control arms, the halfshafts and CV joints, etc. Every time you try to accellerate, you're putting more than twice the resistance on each of those points than the car was designed to handle. I've towed 1200 lbs and it's not an easy or comfortable feat to say the least. Add in the fact that you cannot use overdrive at all and you will rarely lock up the converter and you're looking at using more gas to tow the second car as it would take to drive the second car there.

You'd be better off borrowing a dovetail gooseneck trailer and truck and hauling both on it. :D
 

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Agreed dragging a broke down car down the street is one thing but taking a long trip that is another, and your car will tell you that afterwards as well. Military Transportation uses large 2500 class trucks to tow that much weight usually Diesel V10s (Dodge).
 

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I dunno if it's a good plan, but it would be cool!

Well if you had a 'big brake kit' with some 13" fronts, and whatever the upgrade is for the rear, along with trailer brakes, you shouldn't have too much trouble stopping it from 60mph.

As for the torque converter locking up, wouldn't it lock up fine with a chip?
 

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that's really cool...looks like a lot of fun
 

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Towed my vintage 14 ft fiberglass boat with 40 HP outboard on a 250 mile trip. Almost all thruway driving at 60-70 mph. The boat, trailer and everything in it probably weighed 1200 lbs. The car did fine without any problems though the cooling fan ran a fair amount. The car is a 96 V-8 with a J-chip, 80mm LMAF and tranny upgrades including a cooler. When you tow anything you have to be careful with your braking distances doesn't matter what you are towing with. The car is rated to tow up to 2000 lbs and I think it can do it without many problems, though I would highly recommend the tranny upgrades and cooler. I doubt that Ford came up with this number without testing in the desert on a long upgrade.
 

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mine stock when it belonged to my dad towed a 14.5' ozark fiberglass boat, dunno the weight but it made it from Coral Springs Fla to Dallas TX no problem, then 3 weekes later the tv cable gromet broke and it got a reman lol

Josh
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah, thats why I was asking. I was more afraid of yanking the hitch out, along with half the rear end. If it holds, theres the risk of stretching things out. As for the driving aspect, it's all about how you put the weight on the trailer, and how you drive. Something like this, I'd put about 65%/35% distribution. You can compensate for the above problems by driving slow, and not accelerating hard and leaving plenty of room ahead, 2:73s wouldnt hurt either. But then theres the problem of sudden stuff, deer and the like, and stop lights....up hill :eek: I'm not to worried about the brakes, I have more breaking power then many trucks, but I'd want a cooler at least, and 13" rotors and such would be good to...but those are going on the cougar :p
Option 2, The cougar tows a smaller enclosed trailer with all my crap on it. But then I'm relying on my race car to get me home....not a good idea when youre running balls out for 30 laps, 500+ mi from home. Plus I'll be swapping out different pumpkins/gears for different tracks, and 4:30s from here to Beaverun in PA is gunna suck :p Cant afford a truck :(
 

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Yep, lotsa fun. I wont have my boat done by the May race so I will be driving This, it tops out at 90mph! Should be fun! If anyone want to come to the race, it is in Northern NJ, I can get you free tickets!


Any ideas about trailer hitches? I was thinking class II. But I also want one that will tuck below the rear bumper, so I won't be able to see it.

Jim
 
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