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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys.....still got the same ol' problem, i've seen a lot of people lately with this problem.....any that have fixed it please provide your advice, anything is helpful to me at this point

when the car is cold and i start it up, the idle is very rough, if i dont stomp the gas a few times before taking off in reverse the car dies, but after the car is warmed up it starts and runs fine

ive cleaned the filter, have a fairly new fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ive replaced both the IAC and TPS, not directly from a junked car, but from O'Reilly's

i cant figure this out for the life of me and its really annoying......i havent found a junk yard around with a spare throttle body....pretty wierd eh? ill do some more looking when i can but for now i'd just like some ideas on other ways to approach my problem
 

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I had the opposite happen with previous car. Ran fine at start-up and then started to sputter and die when it warmed up. Three shops didn't know how to fix it. I figured it out and replaced my temp sensor. That was it. $30 and 5 minutes of work.

Don't know if that is a solution for you, but....ya never know with these things.
 

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I replaced both the Temp sender unit and the coolant temp sensor. Problem went away.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
...........

i dont think it would be either of those, i did forget to mention that i half shafted my throttle body right before all of this began happening and that my car idles high when the IAC is plugged in, the idle runs at about 1300-1400, i keep it unplugged as of now because if i keep it plugged in, that higher idle makes me accelerate through town and i have to ride the brake
 

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Discussion Starter #5
one last thing.......

what year cars do the throttle body interchange with a 95 3.8?? that way if i find a yard with some junked cars i can see if they have one before i go looking...
 

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it is not the tb...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
hmmmm........

then please enlighten all of us.......i really do need this problem fixed, maybe i can sell the car and get a tbird this time instead of a cougar
 

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Check

Check for vaccuum leaks, especially if you have power brakes (power brake booster could give you this problem if there is a vacuum leak)

BeirutsFinest
 

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Two things. My car would hesitate and stall until it got warmed up. It was one of my oxygen sensors. But if this started when you messed with the tb then I'd guess this is the problem. So make sure you don't have a gasket leak where the tb meets the upper intake manifold. This can happen if you knicked the tb on its mating surface, or if skimped and didn't replace the gasket , or lastly you overtightened the four nuts. As I recall, the torque is only like 25 ft-lbs. That's not real tight. But if you do get a leak here then the engine will suck air from behind the throttle. This then negates the throttle and your engine will have a mind of its own.
Perch
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ok.........

i dont have a torque wrench, i juts tightened them, how would overtightening make a leak?.....as for BeirutsFinest, where are the vacuum lines? i have no clue i couldnt ever find them......i do have the all wheel ABS so maybe thats a problem.....maybe its just possible that my hose cracked open or something? can you show me a pic of where all the vacuum lines are?
 

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Re: ok.........

MO_XR7 said:
i dont have a torque wrench, i juts tightened them, how would overtightening make a leak?.....as for BeirutsFinest, where are the vacuum lines? i have no clue i couldnt ever find them......i do have the all wheel ABS so maybe thats a problem.....maybe its just possible that my hose cracked open or something? can you show me a pic of where all the vacuum lines are?
The metal will warp if overtightened. It won't seat properly is not tightened enough.

Vacuum lines are running through various components. They are the black rubber hoses weaving in and around your engine compartment.

I don't claim to be an engineer so I am not going to describe how it works. It is a system for airflow measurement, air circulation, and airflow reporting between various engine components such as intake, EGR, and crankcase. This system has to be closed; or all lines either connected, closed off with a cap, or free of cracks/slices. If the system is open, or there is a leak, you will definately have a/f mixture troubles among other things.

As a added suggestion, replace your PCV valve. It is one of the cheapest ($3) and easiest things to do and will be a PITA if failed.

If someone has a more educated explanation, please feel free.
;)
 

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Hey

I'm sorry i don't have any pictures to show you....but you say you have ABS....so that eliminates your vaccuum problem ( that only applies to power brake systems).

How do your brakes feel when you step on the pedal?

Beirutsfinest
 

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For clarification, this only does this when going into reverse?

Edit: I believe that there is a basic vacuum schematic label located somewhere in your engine bay, likely on the along the top of the front unibody rail.

Checking your vacuum lines costs no money and just a bit of time. It won't hurt to check. Did you check the PCV?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
soop said:
For clarification, this only does this when going into reverse?

No. It does this MORE in reverse but also in drive, but only when the car is cold. I have no clue what a PCV looks like, give me a pic or describe it or tell me where it is.
 

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MO_XR7 said:
soop said:
For clarification, this only does this when going into reverse?

No. It does this MORE in reverse but also in drive, but only when the car is cold. I have no clue what a PCV looks like, give me a pic or describe it or tell me where it is.
The PCV valve is located on the rear end of the valve cover of the passenger side of the car. It is black and has 1 vacuum line into it and is seated in a black seal in the valve cover. It just pulls straight out. There is a piston in it that acts as a valve. If you pull it out and shake it and it rattles, the piston is likely working properly. If the piston sticks, it's time for a new one. They are cheap to replace, no sense in trying to clean it out.

Edit:


I have read somewhere in the forums that there is a filter within the valve cover just below the PCV opening. I have never needed to replace this. I expect that if the motor is very gummed up inside, the filter made need replacement.

It is something that is good to replace each tuneup.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
bahhhhhhh

the PCV is fine, the piston moves around when i shake it, i checked the vacuum hoses attatched to it and there is one not in the greatest condition but it doesnt have a hole in it, i called Autozone to ask if they could do a code scan for me and she told me they only do for 96 and up bummer, im getting ready to call this junk yard to see if they have any throttle bodies with all sensors for my car, just need someone to tell me which years interchange
 

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Discussion Starter #17
umpf........

anyone want to give it one last guess before i tell you what i found out from a code reader???? nah........ill just tell ya now

the code reader used was a snap-on type, we did both the KOEO and KOER tests, the computer spit out 2 codes, i dont remember the numbers but it said my voltage for the TPS was too low, i think it was at like 0.17 or so, then it also said something about my EGR which im not worried about at the moment because of the price these things range. also said that it was finding a knock and that my knock sensor was failing or something like that, so next time i go to the shop im going to probably need to get my timing advanced and run higher octane fuel, am i right????
 

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Might want to check out the entire thread linked below, with attention to the DPFE discussion. Could be that the DPFE is contaminated from your work on the TB, or as in the case with ROB, he had unplugged it and not plugged it back in far enough.

DPFE thread.

Hope this resolves it for you M.

Edit: Check this thread for more info on the PFE (DPFE).

Caio
 
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