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My 95 bird just rolled 100Kold. So since these "new" cars can go 100K before any major tune-up, im thinking its time. I would like to know what all I should replace. Plugs, wires, coil packs(MSD), go to K/N filter, step up to synthetic oil, new belt??
What about suspension stuff? I would like to know what other people have done and think. Thanks!
 

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Kevin Duffy said:
My 95 bird just rolled 100Kold. So since these "new" cars can go 100K before any major tune-up, im thinking its time. I would like to know what all I should replace. Plugs, wires, coil packs(MSD), go to K/N filter, step up to synthetic oil, new belt??
What about suspension stuff? I would like to know what other people have done and think. Thanks!

First, congrats on turning 100K!

Second, I sure hope that you've done something to keep your car maintained since before turning 100K! The T-Birds are not destined to be a non-maintence vehicle.

Here's a list of what you should do, and what you might consider.

To begin with the MUST DO:
1. SERVICE THE TRANNY!!!! Drain all the fuid and escpecially the TC. Replace with
MERCON-V ONLY!!! Do not use a Dextron product or anything that says generically "Mercon equivalent". MERCON-V is the only one! I routinely service my tranny every 30,000 miles.

2. Flush and fill the cooling system, including replacing ALL HOSES. if you have the skills, I highly recommend taking off the fuel rails and intake manifold to get to the hot water hose located in the canyon of the V on top of the motor. I routinely flush and fill the cooling system every 24,000, and replace hoses every 48,000. That wee-little hose I only replaced once at 96K.

3. Plugs. Forget the 100,000 mile claims. Check your plugs every now and then and replace when necessary. I generally replace my plugs each 30,000 miles.

4. Serpentine belt. I change mine every 60,000 miles. Remember, everthing runs off this belt, so why wait until it fails?

5. Flush and fill PS. It is any easy job to do, and I do it at the same time that I change my coolant. I also changed my hoses when I'm changing the coolant hoses.

6. Fuel filter. It's gotta be about time!

7. Change the OIL and OIL FILTER! I hope that you routinely change at least every 5,000 miles if not sooner. I change my oil/filter every 3,000 miles. Considering the cost of synthetics, I don't think that the synthetic oils provide that much greater benefit compared to conventional oils. If your concerned about detergent levels, then spend the extra money to get a diesel-rated oil.

8. CLEAN THE MAF!!!

THINGS YOU MIGHT WANT TO DO:
1. Wires. I would change to new ones, but it isn't a "must" thing. I replace my wires every 60K. Last time I got Motorsport 9mm, but they were on sale! I don't think that the coil packs are in need of replacement...but if you have the tools you can measure the juice being delivered.

2. Rear gear lube. The manual teaches every 100K. Why not do it? No lubricant lasts forever. If you do decide to change the lube, you might want to consider upgrading your gear set to 3.73 ;^) !!

3. K&N. It does flow better than a conventional paper filter. However, I'm not completely sold on the panel filter benefits. I certainly must clean my MAF more often. I think that this is because of some entrained oil from the K&N covering the sensing elements. Even if you do not go the K&N route, you might want to consider removing the so-called "air silencer" or "resonator" from the air box. I noticed no improvement in sound or performance by removing it, but removing a restriction isn't a bad thing. However, that restriction also served a purpose. Since the same volume of air is being sucked through a smaller opening, the result is that a faster stream of air is passing through that element. But I think that the results with/without the silencer are the same.

5. Exhaust. if you haven't switched to K&N, then you've likely done nothing to your exhaust. The stock exhuast is stainless steel, so don't wait around for it to rot, because it won't...unless you really beat the car by routinely running short trips (<20min each way). On the way to the exhaust are the headers. I did replace my headers. Although there may be some performance gain, without swapping the heads, it's not that considerable. I changed headers primarily to provide a better sound. While the Flowmaster/Dynomax/Walker turbo mufflers, make the exit sound LOUDER, IMO they do precious little in delivering a "throaty" sound. Headers change that...period.

6. Suspension. The stock suspension holds its own, but an upgrade sure is nice! I have Tokico springs/shocks which lower the Birsd about 1- 1.25 inches. Beilstein are purportedly a better product, and they lower your car 1.5inches. Since I travel on dirt roads in my neck of the woods, I didn't want to go too low ;^) . Read the articles on suspension and decide for yourself if you want to spend the extra coin not only on springs/shocks but also for sway bars and reinforcing braces under the hood.

7. Replace some easy-to-get-to sensors that feeed into the EEC. Temp sensor, crank position sensor, manual lever position sensor, O2 sensors etc.


8. Brakes. If you're still rolling with stock rotors, then I think that it's time for a change! The stock rotors don't have enough mass/size to keep this heavy car from chewing them up. I'm certain that you've experieinced some shake upon braking...that's a result of a warped rotor. Also the stock rotors are notroiously bad for rust. Just get a new rotor/pad kit. I have KVR for the past 3 years and have no complaints...no wobble...less dust...and better braking.

You have a lot of work to do, my young friend!
 

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You just now hit 100,000? Wow, is this a daily driver or hust a weekend car?

I wish I only had 100,000 miles on mine, I'd thow on some nitrous!
 

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I wish mine was back at 100K too. It turned over 150K a few weeks ago. And until I'm done driving the 40 mile round trip, 3 times per week (college) then I'm stuck putting miles on my 'Bird.

I'm hoping in 2004 to tear into my 'Bird and replace/upgrade parts and pieces to make it better. Of course, that also matters if I have a new daily driver or not.

-Andy "Melon"
 

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His car is still a young pup....

I just hit 214,000 and still running strong...

I agree with everything Bird of Prey said. Especially the transmission parts! Except he didn't mention installing a transmission cooler... The bigger the better...

I would also recommend reading all the tech articles. They have invaluable information!

Keep an eye on the ball joints in the front end. I think the major one's that seem to wear out are the top ones.

I think the 4.6L are excellent engines since they run so clean. We’ll see when mine fails and leaves me stranded… lol. Those manual 1 – 2 shifts at 5100 rpm are eventually going to do me in, I’m sure!
 

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94,

you only shift it at 5100? i have 120,000 i do it at 5500...i heard that failure thing though....its gotta happen one of these days:bangwall: i have a 30 mile each way commute to class 4 days a week.

joseph:cool:
 

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It was stated that the MAF sensor should be cleaned. I thought that it should only be cleaned if trouble with it persisted. Are they always in need of cleaning, or mainly when a K&N type air filter is being used?

W.Cup
 

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Good Grief!!

I just looked at the date on my last post in this thread:

"I just hit 214,000 and still running strong... " dated 10 - 17 - 02....

It is now 12 - 18 - 02, and I'm at 223,636!! OK, that's two months, and 9,600 + miles!!

Man, I've been putting some miles on this car!!! I'm figuring 1/4 million should be possible, but I'm not holding my breath for 300K :D Although at this rate, I'll almost be there this time next year!
 

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I just rolled 168000 yesterday

Still running strong, uses a little oil, thats normal for the car thou.

Jason
 

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I am @ 137K and climbing 125+ 5 days a week. I run Mobile-1 exclusively and change between 5 and 10K depending on oil level. Recently changed to 10W-30 as the piston was talking ugly every morning. Just did an overhaul on the tranny - begining to slip. Did the J mod also. turns out the EPC was the culprit all along. It still doesn't hit OD until 100! Starting to have suspension sqeaks etc. Already canged the rotors and switched to NAPA's Ceramix pads. So far they are doing well. Rotors arent going to hold up, but something has to be expended.
 

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I hit 111,111 not too long ago.

As for stuff I need to repair... the list is not too long.

1. Tranny 1-2, 2-3 pistons need to be changed.
2. Needs new shocks
3. New door striker bushing
4. New brake rotors
5. Paint on the hood is cracking

... that's about it I guess. I'm hoping I can go through at least 2 more years with this car... without having to do anything major to it.:rolleyes:
 

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November 9:
<img src=http://members.tccoa.com/kewlbird/Turn125000.jpg><br>


I remember hitting 100,000 and 111,111, was a long time ago, and also when the Grand Prix I had turned 222,222 very interesting
 

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My 86 Bird (3.8) has the digital dash. When it hit 200k it went back to 100k. It now has 215k actual on the origional engine (never apart). My 93 Bird (3.8) has 110k, still strong (one set of head gaskets).
 

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yeah I rolled 40,000 2 days ago! My main concern is the rear lube its been in there since 94 when they built my 95 :)
 
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