TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My T-bird is missing when I accelerate, especially going up a hill or incline. When I floor it, it stops. Any ideas????
Thanks

Melanie
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
8,239 Posts
off the top of my head, clean the MAF sensor and reset the computer.


If that doesn't do it then look into motorcraft copper plugs (agsf32c) and motorcraft wires, and a motorcraft fuel filter.

JH
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,758 Posts
I'll second that. :thumbsup:

I know my 94 4.6L is very, very sensitive to worn plugs/wires. The first things I would do are replace the plugs and wires, check for vacuum leaks, and clean the MAF.

With those taken care of I’ll bet your problem goes away.

Good luck and post back if you still have the problem! :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Okay, the MAF is clean and the wires and sparks are almost new. The mechanic is baffled. It will run well in the a.m., but then it gets rougher as the day goes by and sometimes shakes when I am just barely accelerate. It also now smells like gas when I idle. Got to keep the windows down to keep from getting sick on the fumes. Any other ideas??????

Thanks

Melanie
 

·
Trumpeter Extraordinaire
Joined
·
2,917 Posts
Hello, Melanie...

Here's a diagnostics flow chart from the 1994 PC/ED manual you and your mechanic may find helpful. Feel free to request the pinpoint tests mentioned in the flowchart if you need them:





In addition to the previous suggestions, another possibility is that the Idle Air Control valve may be dirty/worn. Also, if you're smelling gas fumes, there may be a misfire, which means a bad plug, or an injector is staying on. Yet another idea: an oxygen sensor may be worn out, which affects the fuel/air mixture. Is the Check Engine light on? If so, have a code reading performed, and let us know what code it is.

Keep us posted.

--Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks. I'll take that to him at lunch. The check engine light has not come on. I will post when they figure it out.....if ever...or maybe just sell the thing, as is. Bad part is I just had it repainted!

Mel
 

·
Trumpeter Extraordinaire
Joined
·
2,917 Posts
I sure hope we don't have a stumper here. Back to 94 Daily Driven's suggestion: how's all the vacuum lines? The lines may look ok, but they may have pinhole leaks.


Additional thoughts:

Can you get the EGR valve tested? Essentially, disconnect the vacuum connector from it, hook a vacuum pump to it, and see if it holds a vacuum. If it does, the valve is ok. If not, it may be reintroducing exhaust gas in at the wrong time.

Is there a fuel line leak near the right rear wheel? I ask because it happened to me, and I didn't notice it right away, except for the fumes....
 

·
Refrigerator Raider Hater
Joined
·
11,719 Posts
Does it feel like your driving over a rumble strip? If so, it's your TC shuddering (trying to lock up but failing).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,247 Posts
I doubt it's the tranny.

I still would not rule out the maf sensor.

When it is acting up, try disconnecting it, and giving it a quick test drive. If the maf is bad, it will accelerate better disconnected.


NOTE:

You will ruin your cats if you drive it with it running rich (gas fumes)

If you haven't priced a new cat unit yet, Dan Newman's price is around $1400.
That's just for the part!
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
8,239 Posts
1400 for a cat unit, lol.

I believe you Steve, by why wouldn't someone just get a universal cat and have those welded onto your setup?

I put carsound cats on for 40 bucks a piece.

JH
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
573 Posts
Three things I can think of that can result in a bad acceleration miss along with a really bad miss after the engine warms up. Also if it's worse when it rains or has rained in the last couple days, then it's no doubt electrical. Spark plug wires first. Check to make sure they all click in place. Make sure you're satisfied with their condition, if not replace them. Just one hair line crack in one of them will allow the spark to jump to ground. Not good. Second, Make sure all plug wires are installed to the right coil terminals. You just changed wires and you would be surprised how many times this happens. Third, The coils. You think they last forever, but they don't. They are really noticable when the engines hot. When it's cold, you may start fine one day but not the next. If it has been raining, it's like rolling dice. My bet is that one of the spark plug wires are in the wrong position. One more thought. Make sure the fuel injector connections are clicked down all the way. One might have come discounected somehow. Ed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
513 Posts
i had the same problem i couldnt figure it out sometimes it would do it sometimes not, but it started after i had a radiator hose bust on me and what it was i had radiator fluid in 2 of my plug holes and it was causing an arc in my sparks, i had new plugs and wires i put in and i pulled out the back 2 plugs and sprayed it out with a air compressor and radiator fluid shot all over me and after that i havent ever had the problem again, it could be water, remove the wires and use a air compressor and see if anything comes out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,598 Posts
The gas smell bothers me..... hmmmm? after driving a while and the smell starts , first open your hood ,and, with a flashlite , especially around the grooves around the fuel injector bases, look verrrry carefully to find any traces of gas / the stuff will get into the plug holes , short things out and evaporate while the engine cools, leaving almost no trace, but its awfully dangerous to drive around a 4000 lb. molotiv cocktail for want of a proper seating on an injector or a 50 cent o ring... get rid of the gas smell 1st .... trace it with your eyes and nose Make doubly sure that the problem is resolved.... good luck!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Okay, guys. Problem is solved. Turns out it was a spark plug wire. This was not showing on the computer that my mechanic has, but my husband decided to change the wires anyway, although they were fairly new. Also, there was a PCV or PVC (forgive me, but I can't remember what my husband said and I am mechanically challenged) hose that was just laying there, disconnected. Needless to say, I am not too happy with my mechanic right now......Think the PCV (or whatever) was the source of the smell of gas? I don't smell anything now and it's running REALLY well. Thanks, guys, for all your help. Should have just changed the wires at the very beginning like you all told me to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Okay, and here's a real dumb question. What are cats?????????? Just in case I ever need to know this........told you I'm mechanically challenged!

Mel
 

·
Chief of Warranty Police
Joined
·
1,492 Posts
Catalytic Converters.

On the exhaust system, they look like little mufflers. Mostly for emissions purposes.
 

·
Trumpeter Extraordinaire
Joined
·
2,917 Posts
mjohnston said:
Okay, guys. Problem is solved. Turns out it was a spark plug wire. This was not showing on the computer that my mechanic has, but my husband decided to change the wires anyway, although they were fairly new. Also, there was a PCV or PVC (forgive me, but I can't remember what my husband said and I am mechanically challenged) hose that was just laying there, disconnected. Needless to say, I am not too happy with my mechanic right now......Think the PCV (or whatever) was the source of the smell of gas? I don't smell anything now and it's running REALLY well. Thanks, guys, for all your help. Should have just changed the wires at the very beginning like you all told me to do.
It's very possible the disconnected PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) hose was the source of the fumes (from the 1994 Service Manual):

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) System

The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system has the following characteristics:

--It cycles crankcase gases back through the engine where they are burned.
--The positive crankcase ventilation valve (PCV valve) (6A666) regulates the amount of ventilating air and blow-by fuel vapor to the intake manifold (9424) and prevents backfire from traveling into the crankcase.
--The positive crankcase ventilation valve is mounted in a vertical position

Glad to hear the car's running well again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Thanks a bunch. I'll never remember that, but I will know that the next time my mechanic works on my car (ex-mechanic) and I then begin smelling gas, that possibly, he has left something unhooked........You guys are the best!

Melanie
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top