TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Astrophysicist / PostWhore
Joined
·
2,028 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
For those that do or do not know, I have recently installed a 2000 Mustang GT transmission, a Mark 8 flexplate, and a Mercury Marauder torque converter into my '96 T-bird. I am glad that job is done. I do have a problem however.

My car will NOT start. The starter WILL kick over if you physically give it power, but it does nothing when you put the key into the ignition and attempt to turn the car over. I am trying to figure out what else I should check, as the starter does function properly. I was thinking about the Neutral Safety Switch ... any "proper" way to reconnect it? Anything else that would cause this problem?

Second problem, I am replacing my radiator hoses (upper and lower) along with the water pump itself (small leak). I could NOT get the water pump off. I decided to shoot some PB Blaster on the bolts and let it sit over night. I assumed it would not be such a difficult job, but for whatever reason, it does not want to come off. Any nuggets of knowledge for this tired and somewhat "slow" person (me)?

Thanks for any help, or any links to previous threads on such subjects that I might have missed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
663 Posts
Is the car not starting since the swap? Could the point where the shift cable connects be different on the Mustang GT tranny? Give this a whirl... Hold the key in the start position and then move the shift lever through the gears slowly and see if it cranks. If it does, either the MLPS is bad or mis-aligned or maybe the shift lever on the transmission is a different length than the Tbird one thus throwing the gears out of position in relation to the shifter.

As to the water pump, if it's a 4.6 the bolts that hold it on should come off relatively easy. The water pump has 2 ears on it that you can pry on but be REALLY careful, they *will* break and fly with about the same velocity as a F-14 in full afterburner towards your radiator. I suggest hanging a heavy blanket or something between the radiator and water pump to protect it. Good luck! :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
"Warped's" recommendations are a great start t osolving your problem.

The electrical stuff (no starting) is out ofmy league...I hate electrical issues...or dents.

As far as turning wrenches is concerned, that Water pump on the V8 is really easy to pull. But again, the CAUTION about aluminum peices breaking is well taken.
Glenn
 

·
Astrophysicist / PostWhore
Joined
·
2,028 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Update:
Letting it sit with PB Blaster and going over everything again seems to have worked. I now have a new water pump installed on my car.

Since my nephew is here, I really did not get to address much else. The new water pump is on, and the serpentine belt now back on in proper routing. I have also installed my 180* T-stat and am putting on new radiator hoses. I now have to worry about proper "flush / fill" methods. The last thing I need is for the intake manifold to crack, as '96 manifolds love to do.

As for not starting ...
I swapped over EVERY electronical piece from my old '96 to my new '00 transmission, including the MLPS and the little arm thingie that goes from the outside to the inside of the case (the tube thingie that holds the MLPS and moves the "gear" shift back and forth). My apologies for my lack of the proper terminology. Once I get all the coolant stuff sorted out, I will go through the gears to see where it turns on. The thing is that it DOES go into neutral where it is supposed to (2nd notch down), so I am confused. I hope I do not have to pull the pan off again. I am tired of Mercon V already.
 

·
Astrophysicist / PostWhore
Joined
·
2,028 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
OK, so I went around double checking everything. All the harnesses are connected where they are supposed to be connected. Meanwhile, my friend took apart the console and started taking apart the shifter. Now, he never got the "duck head" appart, but did pull the OD button off. Now I cannot get it to go back on and be "functional" (it wont click on or off like it used to before).

The car still does not start. *sigh*
 

·
3rd Gear Chirper
Joined
·
2,399 Posts
Glad that your cooling issues are solved. As for taking apart the shifter, get a flat screwdriver, and look on the back of the handle (where the leather is) and you will see what looks like a large staple. Pry this out and then lift up on the handle <b>carefully</b>. If you don't use due caution, you will rip out the O/D switch wires and then your O/D OFF switch will no longer function. BTW, the wires need to be disconnected inside the console first. You mentioned that after your friend was through messing with it the switch didn't work anymore...well the wires are probably yanked out.

As for the no-start issue, you say the starter is good when you apply power to it so did you start tracing the solenoid control circuit back to the ignition switch? First, line up the marks on the MLPS so that it is in neutral. Now just grab a voltmeter or test light (voltmeter preferred) and put the ground lead onto a known good ground. Put the positive side on the S terminal of the solenoid (the one that goes to the ignition switch or starter relay and have an assistant turn the key to crank position. Be sure to stay clear of moving parts, it may decide to suddenly operate normally. Is your voltmeter or test light showing power, if it's a voltmeter is it showing at least 11 volts or so? If so then does the solenoid click? If not then the solenoid is bad or has a bad ground. If so, then the starter is not getting power thru the solenoid, or it may be bad. If there is low voltage here, you have a high resistance problem, and it will be necessary to do voltage drop tests. If there is NO power here, then trace back along the circuit until you come to the next component. This could be a relay, MLPS, connector plug, etc. Repeat the above test to check for voltage at each component. When you get to a component that shows adequate voltage, you know that the problem lies somewhere between the dead side of that component and the starter. Be sure to check both sides of switches and relays, connectors, and the like. Good luck.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top