TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,862 Posts
With front calipers/pads properly replaced & bled, I would be looking at the rear brakes.

Maybe your driver's rear isn't working or the passenger rear is grabbing/dragging.

Also, when is the last time you had a good 4-Wheel alignment?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
Could be a bad front wheel hub as well...
How to check: jack car up, grab the spindle w/ your hand, spin wheel, if u feel a bad vibration= bad hub.. Will cause pulling on braking
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,862 Posts
Could be a bad front wheel hub as well...
How to check: jack car up, grab the spindle w/ your hand, spin wheel, if u feel a bad vibration= bad hub.. Will cause pulling on braking
I didn't think of the hub - very true! I once had a Camaro that the wheel bearings went bad in a front wheel - pulled like the dickens to one side!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,698 Posts
I'll bet you $20 its the strut rod bushings. When they go bad, the car will drive normal, but when you hit the brakes, the wheel gets pulled back which changes the alignment angles and causes a pull. When you let go of the brake, the wheel goes back to the normal position and the car drives straight again. A simple test is with the car in park sitting on the ground, push on the front wheels to try to roll them backwards or forwards. If the wheel moves at all without the car moving, the strut rod bushings are bad and need to be replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
The calipers thats what caused my car to pull or the perporsioning valve if it dont have abs i replaced everything to do with brake pull when my car did it
 

·
Super Moderator
1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
Joined
·
9,579 Posts
I'm with Mike, if the strut rod bushings are worn the steering geometry will change and cause steering pull. When you hit the brakes the wheel will move backwards relative to the car, causing toe in on that side generating a pull in the opposite direction. So definitely check that out.

Now, having said that, it's also worth investigating the rears as well. I had a steering pull some years back which ended up being seized pins in one of the rear calipers.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,862 Posts
I'll bet you $20 its the strut rod bushings. When they go bad, the car will drive normal, but when you hit the brakes, the wheel gets pulled back which changes the alignment angles and causes a pull. When you let go of the brake, the wheel goes back to the normal position and the car drives straight again. A simple test is with the car in park sitting on the ground, push on the front wheels to try to roll them backwards or forwards. If the wheel moves at all without the car moving, the strut rod bushings are bad and need to be replaced.
+1 - another part that could be bad. I changed them on an Explorer once that you could literally put your foot on top of the tire and roll the tire back and forth like 4 inches while the rest of the truck sits still.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,273 Posts
oh yeah, strut rod bushings do that most definitely... mine are shot on the right side of the car, and when i brake it pulls to the right pretty good, the strut arm also rattles like crazy. pop a prybar in between the strut arm and the tierod or something and try to move it up and down, i bet it will move around a good 1/4" like mine dose XD.

their like $12 a piece and come in bags of two, so you might as well do both sides like i plan to this weekend.

check the sticky here in the suspension forum for details, it has part numbers from ford. stay AWAY from the Moog ones or anything else really... moog makes some decent stuff for the most part, but those plastic 'problem solver' bushings are RUBBISH...
 

·
Super Moderator
1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
Joined
·
9,579 Posts
their like $12 a piece and come in bags of two
Warning, the grammar nazi part of me drives this from me... I'll probably get flamed for saying it. lol :) Educational only, no flaming intended.

Their = possession of they (it's their money)
They're = they are (they're talking nonsense)
There = location (go over there by the wall)

So, it should be "They're like $12 a piece"...

I'll get off my soap box now. :rolleyes:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,862 Posts
Warning, the grammar nazi part of me drives this from me... I'll probably get flamed for saying it. lol :) Educational only, no flaming intended.

Their = possession of they (it's their money)
They're = they are (they're talking nonsense)
There = location (go over there by the wall)

So, it should be "They're like $12 a piece"...

I'll get off my soap box now. :rolleyes:
They're (people who correct everybody) are pretty annoying..... :tongue:
 

·
Super Moderator
1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
Joined
·
9,579 Posts
Everyone corrects everyone's bad tech already, so I guess I can lay off on grammar for a little while... :tongue:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,573 Posts
Warning, the grammar nazi part of me drives this from me... I'll probably get flamed for saying it. lol :) Educational only, no flaming intended.

Their = possession of they (it's their money)
They're = they are (they're talking nonsense)
There = location (go over there by the wall)

So, it should be "They're like $12 a piece"...

I'll get off my soap box now. :rolleyes:
Being that the thread derailed, another pet-peeve of mine is people who say things like "needs replaced" or "needs washed" ..... the correct way is "needs TO BE replaced/needs replaceMENT" or "needs TO BE washed / needs washING".

Just saying.............


Back to the topic....... again it's either strut rod bushings, which are notorious to go bad, or a bad caliper/wheel cyl, or a bad wheel bearing, or air in the brake system. Lots of things to look at so start plugging away.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top