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Howdy folks its been a while since I visited but I had to come back to commiserate. My beloved Laser Red 97 was totalled in a rear end collison at a red light last Friday. I've been looking around for a replacement and found a 1994 4.6L with 81,000. Anyone have any opinions about 94 vs 97 ? I never thought I would miss driving my car so much. Any input is welcome. Thanks.
 

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The '94 and '95's also have issues with the valve seals going bad. This problem was corrected for the '96 and '97's.
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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It really depends on whether or not you like to modify your car. My 94 is slowly getting every factory deficiency replaced but there are trade offs between the years. 94 has more factory interior equipment but some don't care about that. Some also don't care for the exterior of the 97 so its really up to you and your wants.
 

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The 94 has a weak transmission and a crappy head/intake design. The 97 came with a plastic intake manifold that was known to break but has a slightly more robust engine control system. Then there are the obvious stylistic differences, but that's about it.
The 96 did come with the cheap plastic manifold also. I was stranded in a denny's parking lot for 5 hours, leaking antifreeze all over, because of that. It cost me A LOT because I wasn't aware of the problem, or of this website.
 

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Howdy folks its been a while since I visited but I had to come back to commiserate. My beloved Laser Red 97 was totalled in a rear end collison at a red light last Friday. I've been looking around for a replacement and found a 1994 4.6L with 81,000. Anyone have any opinions about 94 vs 97 ? I never thought I would miss driving my car so much. Any input is welcome. Thanks.
I would want the 97. The 94/5 also has egr clogging issues from the crappy valve seals oil burning. You will get a light and have to remove the back intake elbow and even worse the EGR tube for cleaning.

Any 96-2001 v8 2v ford must be inspected for a plastic intake manifold crossover and replaced immediately. There is a good site called autoclinix.com that explains this procedure in detail.

Although at that mileage you should be fine for at least 50K, assuming there is no smoking now. Make sure to verify there are no EGR codes though, or you will be in for some interesting wrenching. Take the car on an OBD or two drivecycle to verify this.
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Can you salvage any parts from your wrecked car? Take the engine and trans for your new 94. :)
 

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Full Metal
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not to mention the cupholder and airtube.
 

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I would want the 97. The 94/5 also has egr clogging issues from the crappy valve seals oil burning. You will get a light and have to remove the back intake elbow and even worse the EGR tube for cleaning.
You are correct that the 94/95s have EGR clogging issues, but it is in no way related to the valve stem issue.
 

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Pedal Faster
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You are correct that the 94/95s have EGR clogging issues, but it is in no way related to the valve stem issue.
I've heard that pushing excessive oil smoke / soot through the exhaust system (due to bad valve stems allowing oil to burn) can speed EGR clogging / coking.
 

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You are correct that the 94/95s have EGR clogging issues, but it is in no way related to the valve stem issue.
I was told by a ford tech that all that excess burnt oil goes up the EGR tube on the passenger side and clogs the tiny orfices in there. The PCV is also on that bank, so it helps the oil get in the bad seals.

The EGR tubes on my 95 are so clogged they can hold 90PSI when you take the rubber hoses off the dpfe. Seems heated oil deposits would harden and cause this. It went from an occasional P0401(low flow) to a P1407(no flow) that comes on in less than a mile of driving. The tube is no fun to take off either, there are threads where people are figuring out how to do it right on the forum.

There is no noticable effect on performance though, I don't consider it a critical problem unless you need it to pass inspection(not an issue for a 95 in NYS).
 
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