I drove to work today, 80 miles one way, no problems. I went to move my car, I parked it on a hil and it would't start. The car tries to turnover, like it is not getting gas....I waited 30 mins, then she started, pulsed a bit then I reved her and she seemed fine. I moved the car and then shut it of. Started it again and it started, ran for 60 secs then stalled. Then started and did the same thing..then I tried to start it again and it wouldn't start like before. Any ideas???? Its a 1994 Bird with the V8.
Car tries to start, then it stalls??? NEED HELP ASAP!!
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261 Posts
The first thing I would do is clean the MAF.
I'd also just look over the intake case and check the seals. I had an intake leak that caused the same problems.
But, more than likely, it's just the MAF.
I believe if you unplug the sensor, and your car revs back up and acts at least semi normal. That means your MAF isn't working right.
Someone correct me if I am wrong.
I'd also just look over the intake case and check the seals. I had an intake leak that caused the same problems.
But, more than likely, it's just the MAF.
I believe if you unplug the sensor, and your car revs back up and acts at least semi normal. That means your MAF isn't working right.
Someone correct me if I am wrong.
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127 Posts
You might want to check and see if your IAC motor(Idle air control) is functioning correctly.
Just a thought, happened to me before too.
Just a thought, happened to me before too.
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130 Posts
IAC is a valve not a motor n/m
n/m
n/m
Embarssing to say....
Okay don't laugh..I checked my oil and the dipstick did not register....there was no oil!! The freaking oil gauge read fine and the oil light never came on. I had it towed from my work and have a mechanic checking it out. Thanks for the tips. I cleaned my Maf not too long ago. I belive by a brief inspection, the oil came out of the drain plug...I will keep you posted on whats going on. I think the engine is okay, I use synthetic so I think that saved me. Well if I need a new engine looks like the mustang cobra is a good swap..lol
Later thanks again guys.
Okay don't laugh..I checked my oil and the dipstick did not register....there was no oil!! The freaking oil gauge read fine and the oil light never came on. I had it towed from my work and have a mechanic checking it out. Thanks for the tips. I cleaned my Maf not too long ago. I belive by a brief inspection, the oil came out of the drain plug...I will keep you posted on whats going on. I think the engine is okay, I use synthetic so I think that saved me. Well if I need a new engine looks like the mustang cobra is a good swap..lol
Later thanks again guys.
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130 Posts
No laughs...just prayers
Yikes!!!
I hope that your engine is OK. Althogh a new engine is a good thing, the circumstances surrounding the swap could have been better planned
Yikes!!!
I hope that your engine is OK. Althogh a new engine is a good thing, the circumstances surrounding the swap could have been better planned
Some results
Mechanic said there was 3 quarts of oil left. He drained that and then added more. He said he is not sure where the oil went? He showed me under the car and ther was some oil on the pan on the sides. Maybe it leaked out of that. But adding the oil didn't solve the problem.
The computer threw a code, #116....Engine coolant sensor, out of range.
I replaced it about 6,000 miles ago , maybe I got a faulty one..not sure..
I am going tomorrow and bringing him a new sensor, to see whats going on.
Might be something else not sure. I wish it was just the oil but its not..
Any more ideas?
Mechanic said there was 3 quarts of oil left. He drained that and then added more. He said he is not sure where the oil went? He showed me under the car and ther was some oil on the pan on the sides. Maybe it leaked out of that. But adding the oil didn't solve the problem.
The computer threw a code, #116....Engine coolant sensor, out of range.
I replaced it about 6,000 miles ago , maybe I got a faulty one..not sure..
I am going tomorrow and bringing him a new sensor, to see whats going on.
Might be something else not sure. I wish it was just the oil but its not..
Any more ideas?
you sure you changed the sensor and not the temperature sender? the temperature sender is for the gauge and is on the left side of the engine w/ 1 wire on it.......the coolant sensor is on the right side and near the radiator hose w/ a "harness" on it and i believe it has 2 wires coming out of it.. again this is if you have a 4.6L..........not doubting your mechanical knowledge, it's just easy to mix the two up.
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244 Posts
Get yuor car over to autozone and buy a MAF. You can install it right in the parking lot with a 8mm and a Flat head. A bad MAF can cause similar problems, a dead MAF like the one I had will cause all kinds of bad stuff to happen. You can read my previous posts if you want to see the problem I was having and compare it to yours.
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?s=&postid=8321
If its not the MAF they will take it back. Its worth a try.
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?s=&postid=8321
If its not the MAF they will take it back. Its worth a try.
Thanks I will try that
Someone said that code 116 can be thrown if the engine is not run long enough. My mechanic only ran the car for a few minutes, but it stalls anyways...
I have an extra ECT so I am going to try that, if that doesn't work..prob not... I am going to get a MAF sensor, but I will check to see if I can clean it first. I cleaned it about 10,000 miles ago. I don;t have an autzone around here just a PEP BOYS and a Struass.
I will try them and see what happens. Will a code be thrown if the MAF sensor is bad???
Thanks guys.
Someone said that code 116 can be thrown if the engine is not run long enough. My mechanic only ran the car for a few minutes, but it stalls anyways...
I have an extra ECT so I am going to try that, if that doesn't work..prob not... I am going to get a MAF sensor, but I will check to see if I can clean it first. I cleaned it about 10,000 miles ago. I don;t have an autzone around here just a PEP BOYS and a Struass.
I will try them and see what happens. Will a code be thrown if the MAF sensor is bad???
Thanks guys.
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4,085 Posts
Well, I dunno about it being a bad MAF sensor. I've accidentally started mine up without reconnecting the MAF sensor and it started and idled just fine. No hitching, loping, or pulsing. I'd investigate what happened to your oil while its down...
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244 Posts
Not having your MAF hooked when you start wouldnt show its ugly head until the engine warms up. By default the enging should be running rich at startup. Try driving without the MAF hookedup and youll have problems. The engine will have no idea how to manage your fuel considering it wont know how much air is coming into the system. When my MAF went bad ,this is what happend.
Previous post:
(This is where were at as far a whats happening. At start engine is rich , like it should be. enging warms and EEC should adjust to stat leaning. (BAD MAF) Says to keep rich. Car begings a downward spiral to rich as hell. O2 sensors say (yo this aint good) and EEC starts engine running lean. Another downward spiral, EEC locks into lean and o2 sensors say (ok this is really bad) and EEC starts cutting fuel to the point where it just wont run at all.
Well this is a good system in most cases. To lean = burned piston . To rich = flooded and fouled plugs. Ill take fouled plugs any day.)
Changed my MAF and all is good now.
Just my thoughts ,2 cents, and $200 worth of wrong parts later.
Hop this helps
Previous post:
(This is where were at as far a whats happening. At start engine is rich , like it should be. enging warms and EEC should adjust to stat leaning. (BAD MAF) Says to keep rich. Car begings a downward spiral to rich as hell. O2 sensors say (yo this aint good) and EEC starts engine running lean. Another downward spiral, EEC locks into lean and o2 sensors say (ok this is really bad) and EEC starts cutting fuel to the point where it just wont run at all.
Well this is a good system in most cases. To lean = burned piston . To rich = flooded and fouled plugs. Ill take fouled plugs any day.)
Changed my MAF and all is good now.
Just my thoughts ,2 cents, and $200 worth of wrong parts later.
Hop this helps
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244 Posts
I forgot to mention, 4.6s are bad about oil consumption. Terrible valve seals waste alot of oil, but good for rings I guess. My mechanic ( cousin' shop ) said I should expect to loose 2 quarts between oil changes depending my mileage.
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Just for the record My cousin and his dad have a combined 60 years of automotive knowledge. If I can't fix it I take it to him so I trust his word. His drag car motor he built 350ci chevy with 850hp and is N/A. Not too shabby.
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Just for the record My cousin and his dad have a combined 60 years of automotive knowledge. If I can't fix it I take it to him so I trust his word. His drag car motor he built 350ci chevy with 850hp and is N/A. Not too shabby.
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130 Posts
lose no oil
I don't lose that much oil between changes!
Ihave 132,000 and at most between 1/2-3.4 qt. Whe n I started to lose oil, it was because the rear main seal was beginning to fail.
Now my '87 Mustang GT consumes about 1qt every 1500miles. But that was an engineered aspect of the HO.
I don't lose that much oil between changes!
Ihave 132,000 and at most between 1/2-3.4 qt. Whe n I started to lose oil, it was because the rear main seal was beginning to fail.
Now my '87 Mustang GT consumes about 1qt every 1500miles. But that was an engineered aspect of the HO.
Problem Solved!!!!!!!!!!
Turns out it was the ECT(Engine coolant temperature sensor) sensor. Mechanic discounnected it and the car ran normal. we put a new one in and bam!! Ran great!! I was very happy. I even replaced that damn sensor about 7,000 miles ago..I must have gotton a bad sensor. Then the mechanic only charged me for the part.
Thank you everyone for your help!!!!!
Best of luck to you guys.
Thanks
Turns out it was the ECT(Engine coolant temperature sensor) sensor. Mechanic discounnected it and the car ran normal. we put a new one in and bam!! Ran great!! I was very happy. I even replaced that damn sensor about 7,000 miles ago..I must have gotton a bad sensor. Then the mechanic only charged me for the part.
Thank you everyone for your help!!!!!
Best of luck to you guys.
Thanks
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