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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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Discussion Starter #1
My car won't start this began in my driveway luckily. I pushed the car into the garage and my first thought was the fuel pump since it stopped making the hum. I replaced with a bad autozone pump which sounded obviously bad like bzz bzz bzz stop. I finally received a fuel strainer that fits a walbro 190 lph pump and installed the 190 without any troubles are rushing so I know it went in right. I replaced the fuel filter at the same time as well. THe car got a tiny dribble of fuel from the schrader valve last night when this was done and today nothing come out of the valve. I don't see how any lines got kinked since I was checking for that the whole when jacking up the tank.

I was suggested it is a bad computer control relay module by dirtydog. Thinking about this I have it tuned via xcal2 from Rienhart racing. COuld a tune burn out a CCRM? What years ccrm are interchangable? I will go to the junkyard and get 3 or 4 of them to be sure I have a good one but beyond this suggestion I am lost.

Also maybe this is unrelated or not My fuel door popper doesn't like to release the door when you first push the button it makes the sound but you have to keep pushing it over and over to actually get the fuel door to pop open.
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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3,868 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Also this is a stock engine aside from a 02+ gt mafs.
 

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Newbie
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5,650 Posts
The CCRM can't "burn out". It's not a module with control logic, it's a box of relays. So nothing from a tune can cause it any damage. All CCRMs from 94-97 (excluding the SC) are interchangeable.

The next step in your investigation is to start tracing the circuit of the fuel pump and figure out where it doesn't have power. Keep in mind there is a fuse and the intertia switch that interrupt the circuit as well as the relay inside the CCRM.
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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3,868 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I had a friend push down on the valve while I crank it car and it shot out fuel he thinks its not getting any spark. We used a circuit tester and popped off a plug wire from the coil pack and never got the light to light up.

I will hit the J yard and pop off a few ccm's
 

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Before you buy anything you should test first. The fact that the fuel pump turns on means the PCM has power because it is what activates the fuel pump relay. If the CEL comes on with the key on engine off, the PCM is ready to start. The CEL should go out while the engine is cranking and the tach should bounce a little if the computer is seeing a signal from the crank position sensor.

If the CEL goes out but the tach doesn't move, one of several things is happening. 1) The EDIS isn't getting a signal from the crank sensor. 2) The EDIS is dead. 3) The crank position sensor is dead.

Autozone says they can test EDIS modules, though I don't know how good the tests are. First, however, you should look at the crank position sensor wiring. It is very common for the insulation to wear away, and since the wires are twisted inside their shielding, they will easily touch if bare. Shorted wires will cause the EDIS to not receive any signal. Also, there is a fuse for the ignition in the underhood power box (fuse #3).
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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3,868 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Master thanks so damn much for the list of info. I also followed your swap you did a lot of good work and most people wouldn't even try to do, you must have learned a ton along the way.

I just cranked it and the CEL stayed on and the tach didn't move

I also checked for any fraying of wire and there was none and no blown fuses.
 
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