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For my application, which power adder?

  • Centrifugal Supercharger

    Votes: 17 68.0%
  • Holley NOSzle Nitrous Oxide

    Votes: 3 12.0%
  • Snore, this has already been beat to death ….

    Votes: 1 4.0%
  • We really don’t give a flying rats ….

    Votes: 4 16.0%

  • Total voters
    25
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Discussion Starter #1
I know this has been discussed before, but I’d like everyone’s opinion on which power adder to go with for my unique application.

So before you post or vote, please put some thought into my application.

I already have the engine built with these specs and all the listed drive train parts are in my shop, (so please, please, no “why don’t you…..” :mad: ):

With that said: :leftright

95 T’Bird Steel Short Block with all new bolts, bearings, rings, blah, blah, blah.
Hypereutectic SOHC (dished) pistons (I know, I know, but for the application (at the time) the forged was just too expensive)
Mark VIII DOHC heads (stock cams, slight pocket porting, nothing impressive)

This combination lowers the compression about 1 point from the cr of a standard DOHC engine. So I think I’m in the ballpark of 9:1. Which is where I wanted it. I think a good tune will get some of my hp loss from the lowered compression. I’ll just have to wait and see.

The drive train will be as follows:
T-45 w/3.73 traction lock
17 x 8.5 rims with Pirelli P-Zero 245 50 17’s

So, keeping in mind that this will be my daily driver (with 110 miles minimum a day), and it will only see very occasional drag strip duty, which power adder do you recommend:

Centrifugal supercharger with 6 psi boost max (approx $3000) (I prefer a roots style, but it’s just too much of a headache to install on the DOHC, and with the T-45 and gears, I really don’t need any more bottom end torque)

Or

Holley NOSzle Nitrous kit w/75 shot and a good Nitrous controller http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/NOS/NOSNS/NOSzle.html (approx $3000)

I really like the idea of the NOS since it’s an “on demand” type of application.

Sorry this is so long, but I’m getting ready to start the purchase plans and I am really split. I’ve already changed directions once with this engine (ported NPI’s w/PI cams changed to DOHC) so I don’t want to do the same thing with the power adder. :(

And please, lets not start any wars over the T-45 breaking, “debates” between blowers and nitrous, or the other 100 “debates” that seem to sometimes go on here. :D

Input from people who actually have experience with these two power adders would be greatly appreciated. :thumbsup:
 

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Woah! t-45 with 3.73's.....no need for first gear.

My input would be that you have estimated about 3000 dollars for each setup. Lets look at the pro's and cons of either:

1. SUPERCHARGER

pros
A. If you can find a complete kit for that price you pay the amount, install the kit, and thats is, no additional charges.

B. Superchargers get 10 out of 10 for the fun factor, but engine overall longetivity is decresed, as with any power adder.

C. Power all the time will keep you on the edge of your seat, not wishing you had a little more go when you needed it.

D. 6psi never hurt anyone, and those pistons will enjoy being where they are for much longer under under higher powered race demand conditions (track)

Cons

A. You said daily driver, with 110 miles minimum, with a heavy pedal you may need a rebuild in a year 110miles X 5days/week = 550 miles/week X 52 = 28 to 30k per year, ouch, and thats just week days.

B. After the kit, all the necessary guages, and extensive tuning/ chip reburning, supercharging can be a pocket breaker.

C. Heat is an issue for the entire thunderbird engine/drivetrain, they barely stay trouble free in stock form, un-intercooled/aftercooled setups can make excessive heat and have your coolant system doing backflips.

2. NITROUS SYSTEM

pros

A. Extreme power on demand, at any rpm, at any time, 75-100 ponies from 2k prm to redline. (oh yeah)

B. Daily driver special, you car can be just as stock and subtle as ever under minimal stress, and still be able to turn out great numbers at the track.

C. Peace of mind knowing that when the switch is off, nothing can go wrong.

cons

A. Manual tranny killer, with the weight of the car, with some sticky slicks, and an instant hp/ tq increase off the line the least path of resistence will be found, if not your IRS, then your 5 speed manual tranny, Nitrous and 5 speeds dont go together in my opinion,

B. Not having forged pistons id a bad idea. The combustion chamber heat levels under spray can really cook those components. Shoulda got those forged slugs.

C. Nitrous lean condition can be a time bomb with no signs ahead of time to let you know she's gonna blow.

D. Nitrous refills can be expensive and bothersome. Removing the bottle and getting it filled can be a real chore. Also make that 3000 dollar price just a starter, because nitrous is like 4.00 dollars per pound. (eeek)

So there. Weigh the options, and if anyone has anything to add- please do.

Just my $.02
 

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I really don’t need any more bottom end torque
You can always use a little bit more bottom end.:) Since the car is just going to see occasional track duty, I would go with the centrifugal supercharger. Power is on tap without having to go fill the bottle and you should have plenty of fun with that. It just depends on what you are wanting. This is what I would want in that situation though.

Russell
 

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Well even though I'm a nitrous junkie my self, Im going to go with the blower. You stated that with the t45 and 3.73's you dont need more low end power. The nitrous will give about the same power increase across the board, but the blower will only do it with RPM. I know you didnt want any "why dont you's" But hears my 2 cents . Try to find a pulley set up that will only give mabey 4 puonds, just for the street. That the power below 4000RPM will be mostly unaffected by the blower, and when you want to play switch to a smaller blower pulley for the times you want the power. about the only to get close to nitrous's power on demand with major fabrication. And good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks everyone for their input!!!

I appreciate the advise. I have 0 experience with centrifugal or nitrous so this really helps. (I've always worked with roots, high rpm, or big cubic inch motors. :D )

Keep it coming!! :thumbsup

Oh, and:
You can always use a little bit more bottom end
:rofl: I hear ya!!! :rofl:
 

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Well I havent gotten evrything sorted out yet , so I am far from an expert, but a 6# centrifical blower will not even be noticed in a an evryday driving situatuon, except for a little 747 whine when taxiing , before take off....They are amazingly transparent in normal use, as long as you stay out of boost.I was surprised at how fast they spool up when you get on one, and the heat faxctor at 6#, is really negligable.... you have a lot of good things that fit the equation for a T-Bird with a little centrifical unit, and there is no additional expense for refilling a bottle. or fear of meltdown as with nitrous... I think you will win with a small blower.... Good luck and have fun
 

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96Sprintz said:
....... Nitrous refills can be expensive and bothersome. Removing the bottle and getting it filled can be a real chore. Also make that 3000 dollar price just a starter, because nitrous is like 4.00 dollars per pound. (eeek)

Just my $.02
Just wanted to say that I pay 2$ per pound for my N2O at my local refill station. You can find it cheapre than 4 per pund
 

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If you don't change to forged pistons, you will not be able to run much boost. 6psi is going to be your max. If you go to a small pulley out of "power greed" you will find yourself building a forged shortblock sooner than you expected.

3k for a vortech, yeah thats if you buy it new. You can get a 4.6 kit used in the 1200-1500 dollar range. Peek around the stang forums if you are serious.

JH
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I agree on the 6 psi!! If I go the SC route I had planned on using a bypass valve to make sure the psi isn't exceeded. Especially since the DOHC likes rpm. An extra 1K at WOT really increases the boost in a centrifugal SC (or so I’m learning). :eek:

One thing in my favor is the lower CR with the SOHC pistons/DOHC heads combination. That will make it a lot more tunable and drivable.

If I go SC’d, I planned on working on the pulley ratio starting VERY conservatively and then dialing from there. I figure with the bypass valve, I can get the boost to come in a little earlier and then bleed off any excess. :D

I was really surprised that most people are going the blower route vs. the nitrous. Thanks for the input. :thumbsup:
 
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