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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a few questions for you guys, your opinions matter.

What I have is a bone stock 1990 351W long block. What I am doing is doing a cheap budget turbo build.

I will be using a Mega-Squirt as the standalone. I have a Garrett A/R .70 Turbo.

For the intercooler, do you think I am better off going with a Air-to-air or a Water-to-Air set up?

What I am doing is dropping the 351W into the bird, adding a nice set of heads, cam, Trick-Flow upper intake manifold and building the turbo around that. The motor will be stock for this summer and I will not push alot of boost. Then once she breaks or i decide i want to push it, I will fully build the motor using the best of the best pats available. Sounds dumb, but that's my plan for the motor, I wont change my mind.

Also, I have the 5.0L MN12 motor mounts and I am using my AOD. Which oil pan will give me the least to no problems with the K-Member?


Thanks for looking and thanks for the help.

Jean
 

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Oil Pan

Hello Jean

The stock 351W double hump oil pan will fit without mods.

How-ever you might have to do some steering mods. You can use the stock 302HO Exhaust Manifolds. They will clear the steering arm. But if you go to any with good flowing Manifolds, you WILL have to move the steering arm over.

I have had a 351W in my car with the stock Oil pan, 302HO Exhaust manifolds & a 2bbl. carb on top.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So the pan from the 90 F250 will work just fine? What oil can I buy that will work?
 

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my stock truck oil pan did not fit(1985 F150)....now, one out of an early 80's LTD that had a 351W in it, that oil pan will work fine.
If you want to upgrade to like a 7 quart, you will need to notch the k-member.

That stock 351W should take at most 8 lbs of boost.....but it won't last long there.
Keep the boost around 6 psi on the stock bottom end, and you should get quite a few miles out if it.
Just make sure you tune properly, and get no detonation under boost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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Would this pan work?
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...908331+4294840125+4294925046+115&autoview=sku

Do you have pictures of the parts you cut out? And which pan did you use?


I was planning on keeping the boost that low to start. Then once I have the cash, pull the motor and built it pretty solid.
I think that one will work fine.

I went with a Moroso 7 quart fox swap pan. Link
Also, I had to get the pickup for that pan as well. Link

I don't have pics hosted anywhere....but if you look up 392bird, he has a good right up on his car, which shows how and where to notch the k-member for the bigger pans. The link is in his sig.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Now for intercoolers and such? What do you suggest? What will I have room for? I posted about that in the first post.
 

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A58 oil pan

Hello

Yes, that is the same oil pan(A58) I ran in my car with the 351W.

Only a car oil pan will work in a car. The truck pans are different.

Any car from 1980 & up 351w with rear wheel drive of course.

I even moved my engine back & still fit.

With My CANTON oil pan I had to cut off some of the rear of the K. & I am having to relieve the upper front of the K to fit.
See my post in "racing" Building a 96 oval track car.

PAUL
 

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I have not droped my motor in yet by I have a milodon 7 quart oil pan part#31126 with clearence for my 393 stroker kit & it looked like I wont have to do any mods to my k-member, there seems to be plenty of room to sift the motor back a bit. Ill soon find out!:tongue:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
David, it's off a 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel, I can't tell you the size of it off hand.

Now, for emissions stuff, my car never came with EGR equipment, therefore, do I need to run it on my 351W? Also, my stock heads have holes in the back that a metal line runs thru to the other head and then meet in the middle, it's EGR stuff, but since I am removing it, how do I block off the holes?

Also, what rad are you guys running?

Thanks
 
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