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Has anyone had to change the oil pan gasket on a 95 T-bird 4.6. I called the local Ford dealer and they are doing some specials for service so I inquired about the time and price. They say 5 hours which will cost $300.00. Is this high. I did not think it would take 5 hours to change it. They say you have to unbolt the motor mounts and jack the engine part way out to change it. Thanks for anyones info.
 

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Welcome aboard!
Considering that is a dealer price it seems kinda low to me. Yes, the motor mounts have to come loose. Then you have to either raise the engine or lower the k-member to get to the oil pan.
 

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yeah and they'll probably upsell some motor mounts to you while they're in there lmao
 

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$250-300 is about right at just about any shop so they aren't screwing you over but you could probably do it yourself for signifantly less with basic hand tools, a floor jack, and jack stands, plus you'd have the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
 

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Thanks everyone for your replies. Considering I put a complete supercharger system on my 90 Mustang GT a few years ago by myself I guess I should be able to do change the gasket. I know my tech friend said if I had an engine hoist it would be a lot easier. I have never unhooked an engine and lifted it. Its more of an aggravation than a problem with the oil since I don't lose but a quart every 3 - 4 weeks.
 

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IMHO, a much easier way is to support the engine and drop the crossmember. I bought one of these http://www.amazon.com/ToolShopUSA-Engine-Support-Cap-660Lbs/dp/B000BVQ9NA (for considerably more than $30!!!! :mad: ) and it worked great. I just hooked it to the engine and crawled under the car and removed the crossmember.

When you plan an A arm, shock, or replacement, just go ahead and drop the crossmember. That way you don't have to disconnect anything from the engine (except the two motor mount bolts), and you don’t need a hoist, just a few jacks. It is also a great time to replace the rack and pinion if it has a lot of miles on it.

Shoot, with the crossmember out of the way, there's even room to slide new bearings in. :D

But just my .02. :thumbsup:
 

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3 bolts on each side, and disconnect either the three shock bolts holding the mounting plates on each side or disconnect the lower shock bolts on each lower control arm whichever you prefer
 

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3 bolts on each side...
4 on each side. ;) You also want to take out the bolt in the steering shaft to allow the steering rack come down. I don't remember if you need to disconnect any p/s hoses.
 

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oops lol I thought I forgot some, yes theres four on each side and if I remember correctly the two upper fittings on the rack near the rag joint need to be disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the additional info. I am trying to get my Ford tech friend to come to the house and help me. Another friend has an engine lift I can borrow, so it might not be to bad of a job with a couple people working together on it. I am going to have to do something soon before I get pulled over. I had to sit a Wendy's drivethru for about 15 minutes the other night to get my food. I circled out of their lot and pulled 25 feet to the interstate. When I pulled out on the interstate all I could see was blue smoke for about 100 - 150 feet. It was nasty. Plus my garage floor is getting covered with oil spots.
 

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I circled out of their lot and pulled 25 feet to the interstate. When I pulled out on the interstate all I could see was blue smoke for about 100 - 150 feet. It was nasty. Plus my garage floor is getting covered with oil spots.
You know this is failing valve stem seals. Very very common issue on 90-95 4.6L V8s.

Another fun job that I did recently.I doubt it has anything at all to do with the oil pan gasket.
 

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You know this is failing valve stem seals. Very very common issue on 90-95 4.6L V8s.

Another fun job that I did recently.I doubt it has anything at all to do with the oil pan gasket.
The oil pan does have a leak. But I also have the valve stem seals leaking. I asked the local Ford dealer how much to take the heads off and let me send them out for repair......$2,500 PER SIDE. That is for removal and reinstallation. I could buy a new engine with warranty and have it installed for a lot less.
 

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If you use the search function, you'll find posts on this with pictures.
If I recall correctly, what I did was.
I supported the engine using a support similar to the one someone posted a link to.
Remove the dipstick. I am not sure about a tbird, but this is VERY important to do on a Mark VIII.
Disconnect the air intake hose.
Unbolt the calipers and hang them.
Seperate the UCAs from the spindles.
Remove then lower strut bolts.
Disconnect the rack joint.
Remove the motor mount to k member bolts.
Remove the 8 bolts for the k member and lower in on a jack (carefully). You'll need a "E18" socket.
I did not have to disconnect the power steering lines, just take the clamps off to give it some "slack" to move it around.
I can't think of anything else off the top of my head, there may have been some wiring, or abs sensors to disconnect.
It's not as hard to do as it seems. Just take your time.
 

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The oil pan does have a leak. But I also have the valve stem seals leaking. I asked the local Ford dealer how much to take the heads off and let me send them out for repair......$2,500 PER SIDE. That is for removal and reinstallation. I could buy a new engine with warranty and have it installed for a lot less.
Get a set of core heads from a 96+ and send them to a local shop to be redone. You'll be many dollars ahead and you can use PI cams for a little extra get up and go. It's a 95 so it would probably be easier to use the NPI heads. At this point just yank the engine and reseal it while you are at it.
Alan
 

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The oil pan does have a leak. But I also have the valve stem seals leaking. I asked the local Ford dealer how much to take the heads off and let me send them out for repair......$2,500 PER SIDE. That is for removal and reinstallation. I could buy a new engine with warranty and have it installed for a lot less.
5 grand to pull heads? That is crazy. Run dont walk from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Get a set of core heads from a 96+ and send them to a local shop to be redone. You'll be many dollars ahead and you can use PI cams for a little extra get up and go. It's a 95 so it would probably be easier to use the NPI heads. At this point just yank the engine and reseal it while you are at it.
Alan
Update on this. Mechanic/Ford tech stopped by the house the other night and went over the whole car. We put the cars first rear brakes shoes on it and they were only half used at approx. 120,000 miles. Odometer quit working 3 - 4 years ago. He said oil is coming from the valve covers to the best of his seeing ability. He said it started from the top of the motor, down the side, on the started and then the oil pan. So it may not be the oil pan gasket totally if at all.

He also said HE can take the car home and put in new valve seals without taking the engine completely apart. He said the eingine looks and sounds really good except for the valve seals occasionally leaking oil past them. I also have to have another new EGR valve. He has already put one on it about 3 ears ago. I have thought about putting the PI heads on it but he says save my money and just put the new seals in first.

5 grand to pull heads? That is crazy. Run dont walk from there.
Yeah thats why they only do my warranty work and not to much of anything else. But they stay pretty busy with repairing coal company vehicles and commercial vehicles and such. My buddy above is A #1 and one of my oldest friends works there to but he signed an agreement with the dealer not to work on other peoples cars off of work time so he could get a raise. So he won't even hardly talk "shop" unless he initiates it.



Thanks for the help guys. Everyone on here is great.
 
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