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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so today I attempted replacing my front sway bar end links After many hours of hammering, prying, and cursing I went to auto zone and bought a ball point spreader got home smacked the hell out of it and eventually the sway bar end released. I put the new one on and went to the passenger side and the fork is too big for that side, the link was a different design then the drivers side. Anyone have any great knowledge on getting these loose? the nuts come out no problem but the stud wont release from the sway bar.
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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What does the tool look like? I used something like this for the sway bar end:

 

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I loosened the nuts that held them on, but left the nut on the link. A couple of smacks with a 3Lb mini sledge popped them right off.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
the tool i used looked like a tuning fork. i didnt see anything like that tool at autozone when i was looking but it looks useful. as for the sledge i cant find enough room to swing a hammer usefully under there.
 

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I had no trouble getting mine out with a tie rod fork and a sledge.

Try putting a jack directly under the lower control arm and pumping it up a little bit, otherwise the weight of the whole spindle will press down on the end link into the sway bar.

I just did this same job today. ;)




Control arms too (among other parts, I still have to put the new tie rods in)




Anyways, Autozone stocks two different size forks: A wide one for ball joints and a narrow one for tie rod ends. The narrow one got it out for me, I forget what exact size it was. You may just need to cram a smaller fork in there.

As for a sledge, you don't need a lot of room to "swing" it. A good 3 or 4 pound sledge you can hold by the neck and just the weight of it will do the job in close-quarters.
 

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Do what Kaptn' Obvious said. A pickle fork is not necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I tried what he said with the nuts but they didn't budge, also tried lifting the control arm and that did nothing both sides the top pops out fine its the bottom at the bar that's the real pain in the rear. I was smacking it pretty hard with a hammer too. The drivers side once I had the fork took maybe 10 goooood smacks of the hammer before it let go. I guess I will try a smaller fork or a bigger hammer lol maybe both?I will not get time to work on it till friday again, unless I am feeling overly awake tomorrow when I get home from school.

I think the fact that the end of the bar vibrates and moves with the blow of the hammer its not giving the full smacking power that it needs.
 

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I tried what he said with the nuts but they didn't budge, also tried lifting the control arm and that did nothing both sides the top pops out fine its the bottom at the bar that's the real pain in the rear. I was smacking it pretty hard with a hammer too. The drivers side once I had the fork took maybe 10 goooood smacks of the hammer before it let go. I guess I will try a smaller fork or a bigger hammer lol maybe both?I will not get time to work on it till friday again, unless I am feeling overly awake tomorrow when I get home from school.

I think the fact that the end of the bar vibrates and moves with the blow of the hammer its not giving the full smacking power that it needs.
Nothing took them off for me except the duckbill tool on the page.
 

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I used a small 2-jaw puller to remove the links from the bar in my Town Car. They are pretty much look like the ones on my Bird. Not much room to hit a hammer in there either.

The 2-jaw was the smallest of a set of 3 I got from Harbor Freight. Just crank it down until it "pops".
 
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