TCCoA Forums banner

21 - 40 of 50 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,302 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Good luck; I know the rust stuff has been on your mind.

It'll be nice to have it being worked on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
Ive forgotten how long I was gone but I didnt think theyd change this, I hate jt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Gah...bit of a shock to the system, this new layout. Ah well, we'll get used to it like anything else I guess.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,302 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
At least it's not on fire; good luck, dude.

No way I was liking this, or your photo; seems wrong. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,153 Posts
I posted more details....and a photo....in the post a picture thread.

Winds are still blowing, but nowhere near as strong as what they were on Tuesday and Wednesday.

The next thing to fall over is going to be my side gate. That's also on its last leg, lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,153 Posts
This chatbox thread isn't the same as the actual chatbox that used to be.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,302 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
It was all I could think of; we're still working on our overlords, but truthfully, we're fucked.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
Anyway, who can tell me if the early F1AE 4.6 blocks can be modified to have a cross bolted 5th main, and what other weaknesses they may have?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,302 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Why would you do that when Teksid blocks are cheap?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,302 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
A teksid block, with a crank, pistons, and a set of B heads are about $500 here. (JY engine, lol.)

Machining a set of sidebolts into a iron block isn't going to be cheaper than that. :)

And it's 80lbs lighter.

There's several of various years in CA; check car-part.com; the 98 is best if you want to use the whole thing, but you really don't.

Pick up a 93-98 that's isn't broken, find a set of heads from a 99 continental, and an intake from a 03 or 04 mach 1, and you have a c-head DOHC.

Everything in the block is good to use; the crank is good to over 500hp, the stock pistons are great, unless you want flat tops, and the stock rods are also good to over 500hp.

The B-heads flow better than the C-heads, but there are IMRC's to deal with.

Clearing the stock hood is a problem; look at Matt's thread. :) He's creative.

Lincoln Aviators are also dohc aluminum, but the older blocks are better IMHO; Matt may argue. :)


I'm watching the Impeachment Testimony on CNN; this reminds me of the 70's, except that I'm not missing Batman.

It's time for the Clown show, after the intermission. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,153 Posts
The engine is the last thing I want to do to my car in terms of performance. My thing is, what's the point of high(er) HO and TQ numbers if they can't be put to the ground or stopped in time?

I've been listening to the impeachment thing on the radio as time permits. Except that I forgot to grab my headset before I left the office so I'm not streaming from my phone at the moment.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
16,757 Posts
Unless you’re pushing 500+ horsepower via blower there’s no reason to use a Teksid over a WAP aluminum block In an Explorer, aviator, Mach 1, Marauder or 01 Cobra. On a NA engine you’re just buying hype with a Teksid

Also the 3V aluminum WAP block is reportedly stronger than both the older WAP AND Teksid, and these days could probably be found easier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,153 Posts
The (long term / eventual) plans for an engine build is to have two engines. The stock engine for CA sniffer test purposes, and a performance engine of some sort later down the line.

For simplicity - and cost - purposes, it will likely be a 4v instead of a Coyote engine. I would like it to be as built as possible without the use of any sort of FI. Remember, my goal isn't the 1/4 mile, but rather Auto-X. I'm not even sure if an NA 4v is the right type of engine for that sort of thing.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,302 Posts
Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
Any aluminum block is good, because it removes weight where it's hard to lose weight.

80lbs for the block, 25 for the battery relocation, and that's about it for the easy stuff.

Looking locally, Mark blocks are easier to find than the others, but all areas are different; we don't have a lot of vehicles rusting out after 10 years.

There are few explorer, Aviator, or Mach 1 engines.

Which 3V engines are aluminum?
I'd never try to use the heads, but Al is Al.

OK, 05GT is aluminum, supposedly, and had bigger webbing on the mains.
But those start at $1500.

WEC was talking about machining a iron block, and that's gonna be closer to $500 than $1500.

I would buy a Teksid before I machined an iron block.

The iron block I dropped on the concrete shattered a big chunk off it; the concrete didn't even chip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
I have a teksid block. But I decided on a new build. I want my 96 to have an SVO supercharged 4.6. With a 5 speed. And I want it to match up to the 95 SC 5 speed center console, cause I have one. Since the M5r2 was only an SBF pattern, I gotta use the SBF pattern F1AE 4.6 block used in 91 Towncars and 92 Crown Vics. Thus, my question still stands.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
16,757 Posts
the 4.6 turns out to be mounted further forward in the engine compartment than the 3.8 and 5.0 so even with the M5R2 the shifter placement won’t line up with the 5 speed console top without modifying the engine mounts at minimum
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,302 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
I have an Eaton 112 I'll sell you; just the blower, you still need the lower intake and accessories. :)

I'd go with the longer mustang tranny that fits.
 
21 - 40 of 50 Posts
Top