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Just remember how bad the additive/oil smells; that is an outdoor job if there ever was one.
Yes, I know. I got a whiff of it when I got my aluminum casing. That stuff stank!

Welcome 🤷‍♂️
My bad! 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣

Thank you @XR7-4.6 !

Does it need to be Ford stuff specifically? Or can it be the likes of Valvoline, Mobil1, etc. so long as it's synthetic 75w-140? Between Summit, Amazon, and RockAuto, I'm not finding the Ford stuff specifically.
 

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Talk about making life hell for the co-workers, lol.

"A little Dab'll do you". rofl
 

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I've already put the link in my Excel sheet. I've broken up my Differential build into two segments as well. Both will cost about as much, lol.

38677
 

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As if we haven't gone round and round likely making this more confusing for you. For your all it build you might want to look at aTL into like this one. I was looking for a true Torsen unit, but couldn't find one. Anyway this might be the right to go for your build. 2000 FORD MUSTANG Auburn Gear Autocross Road Race Series Differentials 542039

Also, if it were me (it is because I just bought one) I'd buy the LPW diff cover instead of the brace. It ensures equal torque on the bolts, gives you carrier support and an easier way to pull it off for future maintenance. It's $50 more, but I thought it was worth it.

Oh and of you're considering cost, don't forget to add the bracing to the bottom build for total cost. (Unless you mean that to be a second step). The LPW cover is $235 @SCP. $225 on eBay
 

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While you guys are talking diffs, here is my recent experience. I am going to be swapping in a fresh M5R2 and wanted a fresh 3L27 to replace the tired 2L73. I figured I could replace all bearings and seals excluding pulling the pinion out. When I pulled the carrier from the housing the bearings were roasted. It may be worth looking at them while you have the case open. I was able to restack the new clutches to get 4 on each side vs 3. Having the appropriate Rotunda kit was a godsend for this job. The FSM does not call for a gasket for the cover, only RTV. I'll be using Royal Purple 75w140 with modifier. Anyhow, here are some pics.
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As if we haven't gone round and round likely making this more confusing for you. For your all it build you might want to look at aTL into like this one. I was looking for a true Torsen unit, but couldn't find one. Anyway this might be the right to go for your build. 2000 FORD MUSTANG Auburn Gear Autocross Road Race Series Differentials 542039
Confusion, no. I'm pretty clear on what needs to happen as far parts need to go now.....mostly (see questions below). I've even updated my parts list just now to reflect these changes. Basically, it seems that I've already got just about everything planned out. The only things to really know about now are which of the two diff builds the bracing will be going to, the 3:27 rebuild or the Monster Diff Build.

38713


The only thing really missing now is the carrier support bushing. IDK what it's actually called...the one that connects the diff cover to the subframe is the one I'm talking about. SCP sells them for the "low" price of $343. If there's a bushing I can use right now to replace a worn our stock bushing I'd rather do that and then get the SCP bushing for the Monster Diff Build. Basically what I'm asking here is if there stock replacement with either polyurethane, prothane, derlin, or UHMW that doesn't cost as much as SCP's carrier support bushing? Or can I just continue to use whatever worn out stock stuff is attached to the car now? Personally, I'd rather just replace this bushing (if it's replaceable) with something better but not SCP better for the 3:27 rebuild and get monster bracing for the Monster Build

Also, if it were me (it is because I just bought one) I'd buy the LPW diff cover instead of the brace. It ensures equal torque on the bolts, gives you carrier support and an easier way to pull it off for future maintenance. It's $50 more, but I thought it was worth it.
So you're saying just go with the LPW cover over the Steeda brace for my 3:27 rebuild?

Oh and if you're considering cost, don't forget to add the bracing to the bottom build for total cost. (Unless you mean that to be a second step). The LPW cover is $235 @SCP. $225 on eBay
Are you saying here that I should get both the LPW cover and the Steeda brace for my Monser Diff Build?

Wait; this fits:


That's a torsen 28 spline diff, and the page even says it fits. :)
Is it the beveled ends that are needed for the IRS axles? If so looks like they are.
It looks like it fits!

38701
 

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The LPW cover replaces the Steeda brace. The cover itself is the brace. And you can then just swap it over if you do your existing first and later do the monster build. I have the pinion brace, torsion brace LPW cover and the Beefy diff mount from SCP. Bill gave me a few bucks off the cover, torsion brace and Beefy mount. I found the pinion brace used and purchased prothane bushings for it.

I plan to do s little of everything with my car. Mostly street car, but may got the dragstrip and road race events every now and then.

Good news with the braces is they are add-ons and can be purchased after your car is moving.
 

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The LPW cover replaces the Steeda brace. The cover itself is the brace. And you can then just swap it over if you do your existing first and later do the monster build. I have the pinion brace, torsion brace LPW cover and the Beefy diff mount from SCP. Bill gave me a few bucks off the cover, torsion brace and Beefy mount. I found the pinion brace used and purchased prothane bushings for it.
So Steeda brace isn't necessary if I've got the LPW unit, got it.

Is there a way to get something else in place of the "beefy mount" for my 3:27 rebuild?

And remember how I said that I wanted to rebuild the whole thing earlier and you guys said, "no, just get new clutches". Yeah.... @jco1385 pictured exactly why I was thinking of rebuilding the whole thing and taking it to a shop with parts in hand.

Good news with the braces is they are add-ons and can be purchased after your car is moving.
I think you just want me to get my car running sooner rather than later 😛. I don't blame you, lol.
 

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I think you just want me to get my car running sooner rather than later 😛. I don't blame you, lol.
Mine has sat for over 12 years and I didn't have the funds to do it. Now that I'm better off, I've been buying parts and an staying to treat the car down to take it to have the rust repaired and car painted. I haven't tried the motor, but I know the trans is shot. That's why I'm doing everything at one time. You have a better opportunity to have some fun in your car much sooner.

FWIW- I'd leave your diff as is, get the motor done and Send It! While having some fun build up the MK diff as you can and add the bracing before or after that. All as time and money allows.

Life is too short to leave a car sitting there. If it's going to cost me $20k to fix and paint it right, I'm going to part my car out while crying, sell all of the new stuff I have and then go buy myself newer muscle for cheaper than mine will be.

But I'm going to try as hard as I can to keep my car and get it on the road!
 

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FWIW- I'd leave your diff as is, get the motor done and Send It! While having some fun build up the MK diff as you can and add the bracing before or after that. All as time and money allows.
I’m on the side of using the diff as is, for same reason as mikey said
I'd at least like to get the pinion and torsion braces put on as that's more in line with stiffening the body / suspension for my driving. I'd also like to replace the clutches and replace the fluid because I'm pretty sure that's original to the car, lol.

I'm also interested in seeing if there is a differential bushing from Energy Suspension or Prothane to replace the stock one. Shoot, even an OE spec one if available. But I know I definitely don't want to go with the SCP option right now.

But for the sake of getting the car back on the road sooner, I can deal with just sending it. Watch though. I'll send it, and then I'll have to park it because something in the differential got chewed up and I'll end up doing the Monster Diff build anyway! :p
 

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the front bushings are the same as cobra, I forget the P/N but energy suspension makes them, I have had them on mine for 10+ years.

The rear one that mounts to the cover is MN12 specific. SCP sells the fabricated beefy one but if you can find a used early model one those used thicker steel and wont likely break either(really unless you're launching on drag radials with 400+ horsepower the likelyhood of cracking the stock one is fairly unlikely. Anecdotal claims of their 210 horsepower 2Vs doing so probably jack up their car by the diff housing and don't want to admit it :D)

The trick I have with "improving" the stock rear mount is to run a bolt through the gap on the bottom with a nyloc nut at the other end to loosely keep it in place.The back of the diff moves downward under acceleration, that blocks it.
 
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