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This is what I've got. I don't plan on buying other products.

So far the consensus is:

Clay bar, compound, polish, glaze, wax.
 

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I will say, it does look good. I'm going to be doing my Honda first. The paint looks to be in a very similar condition to what your truck was.

But like I said, I don't plan on buying other products right now. I hope to get similar results as you did on your truck with what I've got on hand. When I run out, then I'll consider getting that 105 stuff a go.
 

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The truck took a full bottle for one pass. Your honda shouldnt. You might be able to go over it a couple times with the #2 compound. Obviously be careful to not burn it.


If its as bad as the truck was, Id still wet sand it. Like 1000 grit.
 

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Here's where the paint on my Honda is at. About 2/3 of the clear coat on the roof is gone. At this point, I'm just trying to save the rest of the car.

38792


38793


38795
 

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Yeah. It's been parked there since I bought my house, 6-1/2yrs ago.

Lots of family issues there with that one. It's owned by one of the brothers, but the house is occupied by the mom and another brother. The sister owns the house and has told me that she'll sell the car when the mom dies.
 

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This is what I've got. I don't plan on buying other products.

So far the consensus is:

Clay bar, compound, polish, glaze, wax.
They usually have a harshness number on the left like you see on the left of the mirror glaze. That's actually a medium compound. I'm not sure if that compound you have is more or less abrasive. Either way you can see with your results on a year panel of each. You may find you can skip the mirror glaze.

Clay, compound or mirror glaze, polish then wax. I used to detail cars and my best advice is keep moving and tape the edges. Don't take the buffer over body lines much at all. Clear is often the thinnest there.
 

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Discussion Starter #831
That's a 68 Cougar; the interesting stuff would be revealed by the vin number.

If it's a S model with a 390 it's really valuable.
 
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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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After five years I finally bit the bullet and joined the flying club I've been renting planes from for that time now. 10-15% discount on rental rates (depending on plane) and I am covered under their insurance - they waive right to subrogate if something happens - and the membership dues are about the annual cost of a "worthwhile" renter's policy.

I had procrastinated on membership because I wasn't taking into account the benefits of not needing my own policy compared to how much I'd save on rental (I don't fly but 15-20 hours a year, maybe that will go up now? :)). Considering most of the planes I fly are covered against hull losses at anywhere from $80k to $250k, that's a no brainer!

Just about to head to the airport to get some night work in before my annual Independence Day fireworks displays flight.
 

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Sounds like fun Brandon! I'd still like to take you up on that offer to take flight with you some time. (y)

Shoot some video to share on your 4th flight! Can't wait to see that!
 

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Discussion Starter #835
I'm still working on finding the TCCoA "Thunderbird" Cargo 787 on Surplus sites.

Parking it might be a problem... :)
 

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Looking at how things are going to be working out, I think I'll be placing my order for the subframe bushings here by Friday. I'll know for sure if I can order them by Thursday morning at the latest. The purchase of these subframe bushings will be a major milestone for me in regards to parts acquisition.

After that, I need to buy the spring perches and I'm unsure of where to get those from. I'll get them from SCP if I have to, but for the price they go for there, I'd rather not. The spring perches will be my last required suspension component needed for purchase. There are the special end links I posted earlier, but those aren't a requirement as I've already got end links.

Transmission wise, there's the flywheel I need. The Hurst shifter isn't needed, but I'll get it for sure.

Then there's the rear differential parts. But we've already discussed that at length here 🙂.

The last component I'll need will be a tune file and I have no idea how much that will cost me. A mail order tune will be good enough for me, I think.

It's all coming together. Slowly but surely, it's coming together.
 

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You ever thought about tuning it yourself? Your combo is really simple to tune for and it will give you the experience to be able to cope with larger changes with the combo later and you will be able to tweak with the small stuff at your discretion. You need the tuner regardless, and every time you need to revise the tune (beyond dialing in the combo initially) will cost you at least $100. I am not sure what the PRP (or BinaryEditor if you prefer to go that route) costs nowadays but it will probably be $400 so. LaSota used to slel combos with his tuning manuals, the PRP and the programmer with a little bit of a discount...

Just something to consider.

Sounds like fun Brandon! I'd still like to take you up on that offer to take flight with you some time. (y)

Shoot some video to share on your 4th flight! Can't wait to see that!
I most certainly will! I'll let my buddy use my DSLR; so much better than cell phone videos. :)
 

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I am not sure what the PRP (or BinaryEditor if you prefer to go that route) costs nowadays but it will probably be $400 so. LaSota used to slel combos with his tuning manuals, the PRP and the programmer with a little bit of a discount..
I picked up Ian's SCT XCAL II as part of the transmission deal. Is the PRP / BinaryEditor separate items needed?
 

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Discussion Starter #839
Here you go:


A book on tuning comes with it, but there's a slightly better version available. :)
 
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This part caught my eye on that website

Note: Custom tunes are not available for California residents - call for CA.


What does it mean for me? Do I get a base tune and that's it? Do I not get to purchase this package?

Like, IDC about doing fine tuning. I just really need to tell the PCM that I have a 5spd transmission and not an automatic transmission. If I can have it do other things like the PI intake, cams, and C&L plenum, that'd be cool but not really required.
 
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