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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I did this mod a lil while ago and posted it on the Facebook forum.
after driving for a couple weeks I can firmly say, this is a VERY worthwhile mod for the price and the difference it makes in rigidity is very surprising. It’s crazy how much flex the bird has in this area. I’ve heard the rear window carries a huge load but damn this is a bit excessive. Anyways here my write up and pictures.
Also I wasn’t sure where to post this, so chassis sounded about right.


Whats going on guys, don’t want to toot my own horn here but......
What you guys know about triple bracing 💪😂
Yesterday I hit the JY and found a 97 -98 mark 8 and liberated the Xbrace that resides behind the rear seat. All you have to do is remove a couple bolts and drill out the spot welds, the lower portions of the X has some glue or something so it’s kinda hard to get off. Unless your a Str8 savage beast with no regard for the law and rip it off! I used a flathead and hammer.As most know our birds came with a Vbrace or an Lbrace for the super coupes. I’ve been reading the the rear window is actually a stress area and takes a lot of the twisting of the chassis, which sucks checks. The install doesn’t look the nicest for sure but I think it gets the job done. The X is IN FRONT of the other braces and reversed so the middle bends it has for strength, aren’t keeping the brace from sitting flush. 1/2” bolts on the corners top and bottom and also tied to the Vbrace aswell. There definitely is a difference immediately after the install; i can’t believe how flimsy this car is from the factory in this area. After all this, I think next thing to do is bust a Rod Maksimovich and make the braces out of 1x1 square tubing to really seal the deal.





 

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That's Overkill. Any preceived benefit is only noticeable on the butt dyno.

We’ve been running LX 'V' braces and SC ‘L’ braces for years. You haven’t reinvented the wheel.

Here's a pic of my bracing, Oh, and don’t mind the Sub box and Amps. I need the room to access that stuff so I don't have room to add an X brace anyway. 😁

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
That's Overkill. Any preceived benefit is only noticeable on the butt dyno.

We’ve been running LX 'V' braces and SC ‘L’ braces for years. You haven’t reinvented the wheel. Oh, and don’t mind the Sub box and Amps. I need the room to access that stuff so I don't have room to add an X brace anyway. 😁

View attachment 45135
No way have I reinvented it, but I did hit you guys with a new angle of attack! You ever get a chance, grab that xbrace and install. You’ll be kicking yourself for not doing it sooner.

also nice amps, how are you liking them? I recently had to get my slash 300/4, it was in low ohm mode. I had my eye on the 500 or 1000/1
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's Overkill. Any preceived benefit is only noticeable on the butt dyno.

We’ve been running LX 'V' braces and SC ‘L’ braces for years. You haven’t reinvented the wheel.

Here's a pic of my bracing, Oh, and don’t mind the Sub box and Amps. I need the room to access that stuff so I don't have room to add an X brace anyway. 😁

View attachment 45135
I know for a fact it’s not just my buttdyno that feels the difference. It’s pretty apparent from the first bump that the body feels stiffer and a lot better connected. I’ve read something before saying the rear window takes a big load when the body flexes. I believe this helps a noticeable amount. Even after having the L and V.
 

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I have the L and V, And the rear stb, therear lca support, the bracedrear uca's, the subrame connectors, and it did have a front tower brace until I bent it. car is stiff as ****.
 

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No way have I reinvented it, but I did hit you guys with a new angle of attack! You ever get a chance, grab that xbrace and install. You’ll be kicking yourself for not doing it sooner.

also nice amps, how are you liking them? I recently had to get my slash 300/4, it was in low ohm mode. I had my eye on the 500 or 1000/1
Thanks. JL Audio makes great stuff. I really like them. One is the 500W monoblock for the Subs and the other is the JD400/4 for the door and rear seat speakers - total of 800W system power. There’s a thread on my stereo system build here somewhere.
 

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I have learned over the years thatSpending time on the speaker boxes was better than raw power, especially the sub.
I listen to everything, so really boomy base does not work for me; if I can't pick out the nuances, like the hammers hitting tympani, I miss it.

That said, I am running ~600W in my sub channel. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have the L and V, And the rear stb, therear lca support, the bracedrear uca's, the subrame connectors, and it did have a front tower brace until I bent it. car is stiff as ****.
I pretty much have everything you do, except the strut tower brace up front. I’ve been wanting to make a custom one too, does it make a difference? I’m sure it does since therear one was very noticeable aswell. I was also looking intowelding up thefront shock towers up a lot better because the stock spot welds look horrendous and I bet some welds would really tighten up that area.
yea I get you too, I’m really trying to do a 4 way setup with an amp for the tweeter, midrange, mid bass and bass. Really shooting for all jl audio stuff except for the bass amp. I’ve also been looking into Tline sub boxes but they are MASSIVE!


Thanks. JL Audio makes great stuff. I really like them. One is the 500W monoblock for the Subs and the other is the JD400/4 for the door and rear seat speakers - total of 800W system power. There’s a thread on my stereo system build here somewhere.
I’ll look for it thanks!! I always have to have a sound system in all my rides, it makes driving that much more enjoyable!
 
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