Ok, I've just got my short block replaced in the 3.8 by a local mechanic, and now the check engine light is constantly on. The guy said is normal for it, and said it will stop ones the computer gets used to the new engine. That sounded kinda cheesy to me. He said he will put it on the computer in a couple of weeks to see whats up. Is this usual after the repair? If you know, let me know. Thanks and peace.
Check Engine light is on
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try resetting the computer
open your hood and open the fuse box, should be right behind the batter, it will say fuse box on it, then take out fuse number 15, try to turn on your car, it will not, then put fuse 15 back in, and walla!!! your computer is resetted now check if the check engine light keeps coming on.
Marvin M.
open your hood and open the fuse box, should be right behind the batter, it will say fuse box on it, then take out fuse number 15, try to turn on your car, it will not, then put fuse 15 back in, and walla!!! your computer is resetted now check if the check engine light keeps coming on.
Marvin M.
Do not reset the computer just yet. First go have the computer codes pulled. This what will tell you just what is up. And yes your mechenic is right it took 200 miles for my car to "learn and adjust" Then light eventally went off. First five it some miles before you are forced to spend money.
THank you both. But whose advice do I take. Is it really necessary to put it on the computer, or should i just reset it? The engine runs perfect like a SEIKO watch, quiet, doesn't shake, doesn't over heat nothing, it's just the light thats bothering me.
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was your engine light on, before you switched engines??
was your engine light on before you switched engines?????
marvin m.
was your engine light on before you switched engines?????
marvin m.
Nope that light never came on for longer than 2 sec when you start the car.
The mechanic ensisted that the light had to be on before the engine switch, but nope I drove that car with the bearings knocking all crazy and the comp didn't even blink the check engine light. But if you all think that it would be best to check it out on the computer, will do. This web has helped me to many times to count, I wouldn't turn down your hints.
Thank you all.
The mechanic ensisted that the light had to be on before the engine switch, but nope I drove that car with the bearings knocking all crazy and the comp didn't even blink the check engine light. But if you all think that it would be best to check it out on the computer, will do. This web has helped me to many times to count, I wouldn't turn down your hints.
Thank you all.
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Depending on the year of the car, you can check the codes yourself with a paperclip. You don't need some fancy computer to do it (unless it is an OBD-II vehicle). Either way, get the codes read. If nothing else you'll have some record of what is going on.
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Mmm, somebody correct me if I'm wrong on this, but I believe in '94 all T-Birds (with the exception of the SuperCoupe) went to the EEC-V and OBD-II. That means you'll have to spend a good bit of money to get your own scanner. Or you can just roll down to AutoZone and let them scan your codes for free (hey at least they're good for something ). On the older cars with the EEC-IV all you had to do was run a jumper wire (paperclip) between the EEC self test input and another pin on the same block, get in the car, turn on the ignition and the "Check Engine" light would blink out your codes to you.
). On the older cars with the EEC-IV all you had to do was run a jumper wire (paperclip) between the EEC self test input and another pin on the same block, get in the car, turn on the ignition and the "Check Engine" light would blink out your codes to you.
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Well there you go. Follow the link below for a diagram on how to jumper your EEC test block. The block is located on the rear of the shock tower on the passenger side and it has "EEC TEST" written on the top. EIther take the plastic top off (I've never been able to do that easily), or remove the "christmas tree" that hold the block to the shock tower and then take the top off. The self test input is the grey plastic connector. Don't worry about hooking up a voltmeter. Just run that one wire from Terminal #2 to the STI get in your car and turn the ignition to "ON" (do not start). The check engine light will then begin flashing the codes to you. Three quick flashes followed by a brief pause and three more quick flashes would be a code 33 for example. You can run the codes as many times as you need to make sure you have them right. It may take a while for the computer to spit out all of the codes so be patient. On a side note, does anyone know when the 3.8 n/a went to EEC-V? '96?? I'm guessing they brought in the DIS on the same year?EEC-IV Diagnostic Hookup
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