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Discussion Starter #1
http://members.cox.net/93tbird/frame strengthening/drying paint.JPG Note the dual factory exhaust hangers:D

http://members.cox.net/93tbird/frame strengthening/diff needs guts.JPG I thought the shadow looked better than the subframe.

http://members.cox.net/93tbird/frame strengthening/diff braces.JPG The rear brace was re-welded by someone else...said my welds were too small...grrr. Had to mill it back flat after that crap.

http://members.cox.net/93tbird/frame strengthening/dirty aluminum.JPG I ain't gonna clean 'em anymore that that!

http://members.cox.net/93tbird/frame strengthening/fresh paint.JPG Here is the skyhook that held the frame for me:rolleyes: My car is behind it.

http://members.cox.net/93tbird/frame strengthening/front brace.JPG Thought I would throw in this easy front brace idea.-A late model Monte Carlo gave me inspiration for the 3/16" walled pipe. I noticed they used some thin smashed tubing for underhood bracing. I heated the pipe with a torch and hand forged the ends. Bent the edges over to make a sort of channel on the flat part then welded the ends. Quenched in oil to maintain temper.

This made a HUGE difference. The large 1/4" plate probably helps almost as much as the braces. The sheetmetal 'frame' wasn't spot welded very well. No more dash squeaks and the ride is slightly rougher. Maybe Ford designed flex into the chassis for a smoother ride?

http://members.cox.net/93tbird/frame strengthening/subframe welds.JPG
http://members.cox.net/93tbird/frame strengthening/subframe welds1.JPG The factory missed a few spots. That crap had to be done with an '88 model robotic welder. No way a human could weld that crappy.

http://members.cox.net/93tbird/frame strengthening/upper arm.JPGAll new poly bushings except the inner uca.

I also copied Rod's rear shock tower brace. Didn't feel like clearing out the trunk for a pic.

Next on the list are some subframe connectors. Those will probably be a bummer.

I basically copied what some people here have done. Without tccoa I never could have figured out what parts to use.
Thanks to all who posted pics of their modifications.
 

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:bowdown: wow nice job do mine next:D
 

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how much those job runs you?

what kind of welding are on those? tig, mig???
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The approximately 8-12 hrs of my labor was free. I have free access to the shop on weekends. Parts total was about $600.00 and have a half pint of frame paint and alot of scrap metal left. I picked up most of the metal as new scraps for $0.02 a lb.

The welding is from a mig except the frame. I paid $100.00 for 3 hrs of tig welding on that. I really cringed at spending that much for something I could have done myself with more work. Laziness= less pocket money:( There were too many flaws in the factory welds to wire weld it without a ton of grinding at weird angles. The tig flows through and fuses the oem birdturds much nicer.

The 'ol boy who welded the frame has done $100 worth of aluminum welding for $20 before. I didn't think he would take that much time welding EVERYTHING that looked bad. Maybe he was under the impression this was a show car. Metal was added only at the large gaps. He said the welds were fused enough to completely grind them smooth.... screw that! In hindsight I should have just bought ten bucks worth of 36 grit roloc discs:rolleyes: and welded it at the shop.
 

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Nice, I want to update to the aluminum lower arms and those spring perches. I have yet to do anything to make my car faster, just slower, and I can't see that doing either (faster or slower) so that is good, right? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just replacing a completely worn out rear suspension with a slightly lighter, stiffer setup. It should launch and handle better. Get some gears while doing the arms and you will be amazed how much quicker your car is:D With the addition of my dusty gp driveshaft the 100+ mph vibrations should disappear. Getting everything ready for a 342.
 

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Nice job man. Im going to have to do that sooner or later, its getting pretty rusty up there on my car. Its wierd, the underside is pretty much rust free except for the subframe, which is 100% rusty. Did ford even paint these things lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the compliments.

Just a little update here- The ride is slightly rougher but not objectionable at all. Much tighter feeling. The car now corners flat. Feels like a larger rear swaybar. I'm using the softer hollow MarkVIII swaybar.

The tail end will get loose over bumpy corners where it didn't before. Totally controllable with a slight lift of the throttle. That could be due to pushing the limits of the tires more. The body just doesn't roll like it used to. It probably needs a larger front swaybar now.

One coil was cut off the oem springs when using one poly isolator and aluminum perch. That placed ride height back to normal. The springs would have installed MUCH easier if I had cut them first.

I picked up a very faint light throttle howling with the carrier swap. NEVER set used gears tighter than before! It only occurs between 40-50 mph when just barely on the pedal. I didn't have the proper shims to set the backlash to the same .014" as before. The backlash was tightened to .009" with the shims from the aluminum carrier. I wasn't happy with the preload from the original iron carrier shims, even though they gave the correct backlash.
It has become quieter after a few miles. Hopefully the noise will go completely away after the new pattern sets.

The car is now very stable and smooth at 100 mph. Felt like 60 mph until looking at the speedo! I didn't see a need to push any higher speed...bawk,bawk.
 
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