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Discussion Starter #1
It's a 95 4.6 Tbird with the only mods so far being a K&N cone filter and removed air silencer. Car has a lil over 150K on it, with 3 rebuilds(one free cuz they messed it up).
Problem:
When I first start the car and sit in the garage and rev it up it makes no noise, but once I get a few miles down the road it starts making this clicking or ticking type noise, metal on metal sounding, at about 2K to 4K rpms when driving, and when in neutral or park I only really notice at about 1500 rpms. Its pretty loud in the car, but I had a buddy listen and rev it in park for me to listen and its not as loud at the engine. Seems much louder during driving that it does while in park. Another mechanic friend told me he thought it might be a rocker, but for some reason I'm thinking more of detonation. I have no clue though. The buddy that listened to it tonite said he thought it was coming from just a little inward from the top of the plugs on drivers side.
Please help me!!! Plug wires are about 1000 miles old and plugs about 5k or so(autolite plats, i know i know sorry wasn't thinking when I bought them, but atleast they took the bosch plat 4's place). Fuel filter and pcv valve about 7k old and maf has been cleaned quite often.
Thanks in advance for all you help and sorry bout the length.
 

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no problem with post length ... you're just being thorough. :)

If you think it's detonation, just take your spark plugs out. Look at them carefully. If they're white, they're running too lean / hot and you're getting detonation.

It's a place to start ...

How To Read Spark Plugs
 

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thumpin_tbird said:
It's a 95 4.6 Tbird with the only mods so far being a K&N cone filter and removed air silencer. Car has a lil over 150K on it, with 3 rebuilds(one free cuz they messed it up).

"Problem:
When I first start the car and sit in the garage and rev it up...."
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What weight of oil are you running? once I changed from a thicker oiol to a thinner one, and the engine made some clicking or tapping noises...try moving up to a thicker oil, perhaps. As another

Also, revving the motor just after start up, with no/little oil circulating in the motor yet...this can really cause internal damage, IMO. do you do that often? I wonder if THAT couyld be the problem...but I hope not.
 

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I'm having the same problem w/ my 95 LX. The machanic said it was my rod or main bearings going out, but I thought it was predetonation too. I pulled my plugs and they were black, so I don't know. It's been going on for a while now, and I'm starting to worry about what it's doing to my internals...
 

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Here's what I don't get ...

Click me

Newer 4.6L's have this mysterious ticking ... and older ones exhibit it ... but ... no one ever knows wtf is going on with the noise.

I'm gonna keep out of this now ... I am interested to see what it turns out to be though.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
As soon as I get a chance to pull the plugs I'll check their condition, would have already but don't really know how to read plugs. Plus I thought of this right before I posted when I was searching and seeing a lot of ppl saying cone filter will often cause detonation. Also, I read that quote ortbird took from my post and saw I just put 3 rebuilds, they were tranny rebuilds not engine, never had real engine probs cept my maf went bad. And no I do not often rev my car right after startup. I only did it a couple of times to try and check to see if it was doing it at startup or not. I am using 5W30, what should I try to switch to? Thanks for all of the responses so far. Keep any more opinions coming though :)
Thanks much!!!
 

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I have seen a lot of wrist pin failures on these engines. Starts out like you are talking about. They don't do it when they are cold(until the problem gets really bad) because not enough clearance until things heat up.
Detonation is more of a ping or rattle than a metallic sound. Once you hear an engine do it, you won't mistake it for anything else. Injectors are a ticking or clicking noise. Lifters or valvetrain issues are more of a tap. Rod bearings and wrist pin problems sound a lot alike(a different sort of tap) except for a wrist pin kind of double hits so you may hear more hits per revolution than with a rod bearing but not always. Main bearings are a definite knock from deep in the engine and hard to mistake.
You can take a mechanics stethoscope and isolate the noise. You can also use a solid or hollow pipe to do the same thing. Wrist pin noise is harder to isolate. You can pretty easily pinpoint it down to the cylinder but will likely hear it on the top of the block as well as the bottom. If you put the pipe or stethoscope on the bottom of the block and move it around the oil pan and you get a clear sound it usually means expensive trouble.
Sorry for the length of my post too. Just trying to help. Hope it's the less expensive variety of noise.

Good luck
Darrin
 

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I also have a ticking noise that is more noticeable when the weather is cold. 2 of the injectors are ticking more than the other 6, doesn't do it in the warm months.
If you use a non-metallic item such as a wooden or plastic rod, you can isolate components (I wouldn't recommend using a screwdriver, you could short or fry something). You also can buy a stethoscope at an auto parts store, but it has a metal rod. Noises transmit throughout the engine and it's hard to pin down exactly where there coming from. Using this rod or dowel you can place it on any component and put your ear on the other end. Be careful that you don't get it caught in the accessory belt when checking the water pump or other belt driven accessories. You can then isolate noises. For ex.: If you put the dowel or rod on the exhaust manifold (remember plastic melts) where it attaches to the cylinder head you can locate which cylinder a noise is coming from. It will be loudest at the affected cylinder.
 

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ok, I will tell you my experience with these engines being a Ford Tech. you will not experience predotonation while in neutral at 1500RPM. if you do that is so bad that you are gonna burn a hole in a piston.. I have how ever experienced problems with the lifters ticking on these engines, you should change oil, sometimes you will have to replace lifters, but most of the time it doesnt hurt anything.. I HAVE seen people change weights of oil on these engines and blow the oil filter off because of pressures.. I do not recommend it.. The other problems I have seen with these engines are the timing chain tensioners wear out along with the guides, (or excessive Timing Chain deflection) and cause a ticking noise in the front of the engine. In this case I recommend new timing chains, chain guides and tensioners.. If I can be of more help let me know..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Okay, well I took my car to the shop to get my rear drums fixed(new shoes, cylinders, and drum on both sides). Also my front bleeder valves were rusted and they could only get one out to bleed it, they said on the other I would have to replace entire caliper. But brakes great!!!
Anyway back to the subject, I asked them if they would take a listen when they gave it a test drive for the brakes and they told me it was my wrist pins making that noise, as I figured, they said it was quite expensive. They told me I could quite possibly drive it for quite a while and it wouldn't actually cause a problem.
But, I want your guys' opinions on this. Will a bad wrist pin hurt my engine??? I want to do the Explorer swap but it will be a while til I can get that money saved up, so I still need my car to last a while. It has 154K on it. Thanks again!!!
 
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