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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
*edit* Don't be a bonehead like me and remember to take out the OD servo before trying to remove the clutch packs.... :leftright
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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chadg said:
*edit* Don't be a bonehead like me and remember to take out the OD servo before trying to remove the clutch packs.... :leftright
:)
You did pull out the OSS and the VS already eh?-if not you'll wanna do that too.
JL
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, I remembered the OSS after I boneheaded and freaked myself out. :) Didn't remove the VSS, but I didn't have the output shaft out, I just threw in some more clutches to handle my power...

Leme tell you having a pump bolt hole strip out is a way to erk you like no other. Pump wasnt seated in all the way so there wern't enough threads to hold the whopping 15 ft/lbs. No matter, I took care of it.

Doing this alone without the right tools would suck a bunch. Lining up these darn gears is bad enough. :)

On to the valve body!
 

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Chad,

Are you going to run the line to lube the tailshaft bushing? Easy to do and worth it. Remember you'll need to take that rear truck seal off and get a car seal.

-J
 

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If you guys haven't seen the 4R70W rebuild videos at MN12Performance.com, you might want to check them out. This cool auto technician guy talks you through most of the steps in disassembly and assembly, and tells you some things to watch out for along the way. I learned a lot from it. It'd be nice if he told you a little more about inspection, etc., but hey, I can't complain.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I watched them, and don't remember him saying "and now everything here needs to line up perfect, but it'll take you 30 minutes to do it" haha. I'm sure it gets eaisier with time though. Correct tools sure would be great too. Those accumulator and server springs can be stiff. :p

J- I wasn't planning on it because of my gears, but you're right. It's something I should do. I'll have to track down a tailshaft bushing and a tap & die set monday. I've already got the car seal. Thanks for the heads up on that. :thumbsup:
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks JL. The snap-ring is for the reverse drum? Does the one there have to be replaced?

Are any of you familiar with Slot #1? The thesis says the slot in the gasket should be used to put a .100" hole in the plate. At least that's what I gather from it. Has anyone done that? (only needed with 300HP and up)
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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chadg said:
Thanks JL. The snap-ring is for the reverse drum? Does the one there have to be replaced?

Are any of you familiar with Slot #1? The thesis says the slot in the gasket should be used to put a .100" hole in the plate. At least that's what I gather from it. Has anyone done that? (only needed with 300HP and up)
Yes that's on the front of the reverse drum-it retains the mech diode to the drum.
Hole #6 is to be opened to a slot in the plate using the gasket as a template...and slot #1 is just a slot in the gasket..do not drill a hole in the plate there.What stall speed is that convertor again?
JL
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It's a 3000 stall. I'm thinking about sending it in to have the stall upped since it's "free".

So do I need to add that snap-ring? Because everything I had out I put back in...

So do you know where they were talking about the .100" hole being drilled at slot 1 in the thesis? (Page 14, it says open slot to specified size. So just open the gasket up?)

Thanks for the help, it's much appreciated.
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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chadg said:
It's a 3000 stall. I'm thinking about sending it in to have the stall upped since it's "free".

So do I need to add that snap-ring? Because everything I had out I put back in...

So do you know where they were talking about the .100" hole being drilled at slot 1 in the thesis? (Page 14, it says open slot to specified size. So just open the gasket up?)

Thanks for the help, it's much appreciated.
Just the gasket...not the plate make a .100" wide slot in the gakset..I'd up the stall speed a little bit if I were you,and drill the holes in the plate to the 450-600 sizes.And deifinitely add that snap ring..the pump has to come back off-it's just inside the case after the pump comes out.
JL
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yup, i've got them drilled to 450-600... Thanks for the clarification!

So do the trannys not come with that snap ring stock or something? Why wouldn't it be there in a 2001 tranny? :confused:

I won't let this stop me. I'll have it done by next weekend gosh-darnit! ;)
 

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The spiral ring will not remove itself at higher rpm due to it's design and the retainer that it is fitted into, the stock ring will fail at high rpm because the centrifugal force will cause it to come off.

-J
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ack. I guess that's a good damn reason. :) Time to come off again Mr. Pump.

That explains it! Thanks guys!

Bonehead Note: My tranny didn't come with the VSS installed, so I didin't have to remove it. -1 Bonehead point for me.

How smooth does the Sep Plate have to be? I took some crocus cloth to the bottom size and got the very rough parts from drilling off, but the cloth obviously scored the plate. (Its not super coarse, probably 800ish?)
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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chadg said:
Ack. I guess that's a good damn reason. :) Time to come off again Mr. Pump.

That explains it! Thanks guys!

Bonehead Note: My tranny didn't come with the VSS installed, so I didin't have to remove it. -1 Bonehead point for me.

How smooth does the Sep Plate have to be? I took some crocus cloth to the bottom size and got the very rough parts from drilling off, but the cloth obviously scored the plate. (Its not super coarse, probably 800ish?)
If you're in doubt...use a bit of scotch-brite to "polish" it up a bit.
JL
 

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How did you strip out the pump bolt holes? How did you take care of it? I did something similar on mine lately...stripped 3 or 4 of them i think. I just got them in as best I could and JB welded the heads to the pump so they wouldnt turn. Thanks man
-Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #18
One of them stripped because the pump wasn't fully seated yet, so the bolt wasn't very far in the hole at all. Less threads to spread torque + aluminum = strip.

None of the other holes stripped, so once I had the pump in all the way, the remainder of the threads took up the torque perfectly.

The real way to fix this problem would be to install a heli-coil.
 

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Do you think that having 3-4 of the bolts unable to be fully torqued would cause a performance problem? Thanks
-Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Not a performance problem, but I could easily see it leaking in the future. I wouldn't leave it like that.
 
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