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I recently purchased a 1995 Thunderbird and the car and information on this site is consuming me. I have been accumulating (slowly) the parts to complete a 5-speed swap. I have been reading all the threads on the 5-speed conversions and have learned quite alot from the detailed information. There is one area that I have not seen covered.

The clutch pedal assembly has a switch on it and I was wondering if this is the same as the nuetral / safety switch on the automatic cars? It seems as though this switch would need to be wired up for the cruise to function as well. Anyone have any detailed instructions or links to perform this part of the swap?
 

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I'm kind of in the same boat. I'm also a little confused on the reverse switch wiring. It having someone ( like robertp ) do this swap cost the same as a built auto trans, I'd have them do it. Unfortunately it cost like double.
 

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I recently purchased a 1995 Thunderbird and the car and information on this site is consuming me. I have been accumulating (slowly) the parts to complete a 5-speed swap. I have been reading all the threads on the 5-speed conversions and have learned quite alot from the detailed information. There is one area that I have not seen covered.

The clutch pedal assembly has a switch on it and I was wondering if this is the same as the nuetral / safety switch on the automatic cars? It seems as though this switch would need to be wired up for the cruise to function as well. Anyone have any detailed instructions or links to perform this part of the swap?
I really, REALLY hate to sound so much like a broken record - but the EVTM would be wonderful to answer this question.

Yes, it does the same thing as the neutral safety switch.

EVTM page 020-001 shows how it should be wired in.

OTOH, you could ignore it, and just bypass the NSS, and pray :eek:

RwP
 

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I really, REALLY hate to sound so much like a broken record - but the EVTM would be wonderful to answer this question.

Yes, it does the same thing as the neutral safety switch.

EVTM page 020-001 shows how it should be wired in.

OTOH, you could ignore it, and just bypass the NSS, and pray :eek:

RwP
Where do you wire it in? To the transmission plug on the t45? Be cause the evtm would only show how to wire up a super coupe.
 

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And that's a problem because? What?

The same thing that applies to the SC applies to an LX. You split the starter circuit (32 R/LB) found near the ignition and you split the cruise boo circuit(511 LG) found at the speed amp. Cut and extend those 4 wires to run them to the clutch switch.


Reverse switch is easy. Just use the P/O and BK/PK MLPS wires from the trans harness and run them to the prongs on the reverse switch on the trans.
 

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And that's a problem because? What?

The same thing that applies to the SC applies to an LX. You split the starter circuit (32 R/LB) found near the ignition and you split the cruise boo circuit(511 LG) found at the speed amp. Cut and extend those 4 wires to run them to the clutch switch.


Reverse switch is easy. Just use the P/O and BK/PK MLPS wires from the trans harness and run them to the prongs on the reverse switch on the trans.
OK please forgive my ignorance/ noob status. But is
R/LB=Red/ Light blue
LG=light green
P/O= purple/orange
BK/PK=Black/pink

MLPS=Manual linkage position sensor?

And what is a cruise "boo" circuit?

And last, sense the pcm isn't set up for a manual and it has to be retuned, is the nss even necessary?
 

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Yes, those are the colors. Boo = Brake On Off.

Edit: I should add this disclaimer and expand on what I said earlier about it; DO NOT cut into the boo circuit at the brake pedal switch. It's tantalizingly close to the clutch switch, I know, but cutting it there means you won't have brake lights when the clutch is depressed. The cut needs to happen after the junction where the brake signal goes to other systems. The easiest place to access that circuit would be at the speed control amplifier, in which you'll have to run an additional pair of wires from.

PCM sense isn't used. Just leave those terminals blank
 

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Yes, those are the colors. Boo = Brake On Off.

Edit: I should add this disclaimer and expand on what I said earlier about it; DO NOT cut into the boo circuit at the brake pedal switch. It's tantalizingly close to the clutch switch, I know, but cutting it there means you won't have brake lights when the clutch is depressed. The cut needs to happen after the junction where the brake signal goes to other systems. The easiest place to access that circuit would be at the speed control amplifier, in which you'll have to run an additional pair of wires from.

PCM sense isn't used. Just leave those terminals blank
Ok. Thanks. I appreciate your help. And sorry op for hijacking the thread. I obviously have much more to read on as I know very little about these cars still. For instance, the speed control amplifier. I've never messed with anything like that at all. Either way I will learn as I go I suppose. thanks. Sorry again OP.
I think I really would like to source some pics some how.

This is why I ask how necessary it is. My friend has made a bracket for his cougar to hold this in place.

(click to enlarge)


It has no place for a neutral safety switch. I was figuring that it wouldn't matter if you didn't use one at all. Am I wrong on this? I've done several 5 speed swaps to other cars and didn't use one.
 

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i bought the electrical and vac manual off of e bay and it was the best 25.00 i have ever spent,it helps alot when trying to mess with any electrics,and it can be really easy to make certain things understandable to idiots like me.im just putting it out there.
 

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Yep!

BTW - SleeperBird, didja ever get over that twisted arm and the concussion from me beating you upside the head until you ordered it? :diablo:

(Just kidding, folks ... we're both from Louisiana, I can kid with him like that. Even if I'm a Damn Yankee to him :tongue: seeing as how I come from way up north, almost all the way to the Arctic Circle - a little town named Shreveport.)

But it's no joke - you really, Really, REALLY should have one.

BTW - When they're in stock at Helm Inc. (the company that did the printing for Ford back when, and even now), they're more like $22.50 plus shipping brand spanking new. Just saying.

RwP
 

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Yep!

BTW - SleeperBird, didja ever get over that twisted arm and the concussion from me beating you upside the head until you ordered it? :diablo:

(Just kidding, folks ... we're both from Louisiana, I can kid with him like that. Even if I'm a Damn Yankee to him :tongue: seeing as how I come from way up north, almost all the way to the Arctic Circle - a little town named Shreveport.)

But it's no joke - you really, Really, REALLY should have one.

BTW - When they're in stock at Helm Inc. (the company that did the printing for Ford back when, and even now), they're more like $22.50 plus shipping brand spanking new. Just saying.

RwP
One question. If I ordered one for my 97 sport, it would not go over this specific problem would it. Only the ones for supercouples would show clutch wiring correct?
 

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One question. If I ordered one for my 97 sport, it would not go over this specific problem would it. Only the ones for supercouples would show clutch wiring correct?
True. So you'd also want one for your donor car.

HOWEVER - in answer to another question - if you don't mind a) being able to try to start the car in gear, and b) that you'll have to tap the brake or turn the cruise off to turn it off when slowing down, then c) you really don't need to wire up the clutch switch.

I would, however, since it's a rather nice point to keep the starter from running with the clutch engaged.

However, I'm a bit confused. It's not wired to the PCM - it's a hard switch to disable the starter control link. There is a link to the cruise control amplifier, but even THAT'S not run by the PCM on these cars.

RwP
 

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True. So you'd also want one for your donor car.

HOWEVER - in answer to another question - if you don't mind a) being able to try to start the car in gear, and b) that you'll have to tap the brake or turn the cruise off to turn it off when slowing down, then c) you really don't need to wire up the clutch switch.

I would, however, since it's a rather nice point to keep the starter from running with the clutch engaged.

However, I'm a bit confused. It's not wired to the PCM - it's a hard switch to disable the starter control link. There is a link to the cruise control amplifier, but even THAT'S not run by the PCM on these cars.

RwP
That's what I was trying to say but didn't get it out right. But this swap is a long way off for me anyway so maybe I'll learn by then.
 

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One question. If I ordered one for my 97 sport, it would not go over this specific problem would it. Only the ones for supercouples would show clutch wiring correct?
Follow what I said earlier and then you use the 97 EVTM to help pinpoint exactly where in your car's wiring you need to cut into.

You literally just need to cut 2 wires total and run each end of both to the clutch switch. It's not that difficult.
 

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Follow what I said earlier and then you use the 97 EVTM to help pinpoint exactly where in your car's wiring you need to cut into.

You literally just need to cut 2 wires total and run each end of both to the clutch switch. It's not that difficult.
I understand what you are saying. I've done many wiring jobs on several other vehicles. I'm just completely new to this car and I'm a paranoid person that doubts myself. It took me 2 weeks to convince myself to convert my dual point fuel injected Honda to multipoint injection.

AAAAND I was a bit confused by what you said now, and earlier. Such as, you mentioned just now, 2 wires. And earlier you mentioned 2 wires followed by the saying 4 wires.



"The same thing that applies to the SC applies to an LX. You split the starter circuit (32 R/LB) found near the ignition and you split the cruise boo circuit(511 LG) found at the speed amp. Cut and extend those 4 wires to run them to the clutch switch. "



32 Red/Blue and 511 Light Green are the 2 wires. What are the other 2? (besides, of course, the reverse light wires.)

And I'm not sure what a speed amplifier is exactly, However I know it should be a plug with more than one wire coming from it. My question is, is it in the steering wheel, or some where else?

p.s. I am about to buy the EVTM as soon as I get a chance. Sorry for all the dumb questions.
 

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There's two circuits total before you cut. You end up with 4 ends total after the cut, in which you run up to the clutch switch to open/close those circuits.

The speed amplifier on your car is under the fender and integrated into the servo, on 94/5s it's inside the passenger compartment under the heater box. In your cars case, given the distant nature of the servo(I mistook your car for the OP's 95), you'll probably have to cut the cruise circuit at the secondary junction box instead.
 

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Ok. I think I'm starting to get it. However, in the papa john write up isn't it just by passed? Here are the photos.





Doesn't this just skip the neutral safety switch?
 

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Right. But it can be jumped as such and left alone without a need for a neutral safety switch at all correct? I understand its better to have one I'm just learning of all options.
 

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Of course. Again that's essentially how it's done from the factory since stick cars don't have a neutral safety switch. Personally, I wouldn't do the papajohn method since I don't like having electrical terminals exposed underneath the car(corroded terminals on the starter circuit doesn't sound like fun).

Do you still want to wire up the clutch switch?
 
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