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Clutch Pedal Wear

370 Views 7 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  jco1385
2
The OEM uses a shitty plastic 'bushing' clip to connect the master to the pedal arm and that 'bushing' lasts about a good 3 strokes and then there is metal to metal contact that eventually will turn the post on the pedal arm into a D-shape. This is a chronic issue with the design of the pedal-to-master engagement. Has anyone successfully made a permanent upgrade to this? I have had this fall off in traffic before and it was interesting. I strategically placed a few zip ties to keep it but I'd like a real fix. I'm about to run out of undamaged clutch pedals!



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You have well over over a grands worth of clutch pedals there LOL. Following this because I have no idea they had a defect. Don't recall if mine is worn or not, it works fine.
Damn, I thought I was a hoarder for keeping 2 clutch pedals!

First off, you have to repair the damaged area by welding it back up and grinding it back smooth. After that, I use 3/8” plastic fuel line, which you have to heat it up to get it pliable enough to slide it over the post, but once you do, it should be tight on the post and be just about the right OD to fit inside the rod for the master. Once that is in place, I use a washer on either side of the master pushrod to hold it in place, and then I drill a small hole through the end of the post to slip a cotter pin through. I have done this on 3 clutch pedals so far, and once done, I have never had an issue with them again.
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Solution, I had the pedal bushing seat re-welded and machined after it deformed. I'm not sure which version of bushing/clip you're using, but if it's the black one toss it. There is a white version that has a better design which was used in the ford ranger and is plug and play perfect fit. That is what I used and I never had a problem after no matter what weight of clutch I had.

Link to the part: New Genuine Ford Bush Clutch Pedal Shaft Bearing Set (x2) OE E69Z7526A | eBay
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Someone over on SCCoA had made some replacement pins to fix this. I'll attach the drawing if anyone wants to have some made.

That being said - I've got 2 un-damaged pedals available. I'll keep one for the car and a spare.
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The OEM uses a shitty plastic 'bushing' clip to connect the master to the pedal arm and that 'bushing' lasts about a good 3 strokes and then there is metal to metal contact that eventually will turn the post on the pedal arm into a D-shape. This is a chronic issue with the design of the pedal-to-master engagement. Has anyone successfully made a permanent upgrade to this? I have had this fall off in traffic before and it was interesting. I strategically placed a few zip ties to keep it but I'd like a real fix. I'm about to run out of undamaged clutch pedals!

View attachment 53500

View attachment 53501

I am interested in buying a pedal set if any of them are for sale.

Someone over on SCCoA had made some replacement pins to fix this. I'll attach the drawing if anyone wants to have some made.

That being said - I've got 2 un-damaged pedals available. I'll keep one for the car and a spare. View attachment 53531
I'll buy a pedal set. If you have any pics f the ones for sale, let me know.
I am interested in buying a pedal set if any of them are for sale.
I'll buy a pedal set. If you have any pics f the ones for sale, let me know.
I've got a sale thread. I'll get some better - more specific - pics of the two that are available posted in that sale thread.
3
Got the new pin in yesterday. I'll get it welded in later this evening.





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