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PostSkank
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Discussion Starter #101
Ok, here we go.


Grind off the bump here:




and weld the new plate like so:


make sure you have the linkage on in the proper direction, and that the spring is on as well before you weld. Pay attention to how the spring comes off so you will know how it needs to be loaded when you put it back on.
 

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Pay attention to how the spring comes off so you will know how it needs to be loaded when you put it back on.[/QUOTE]
I don't remember how it was on there. I geuss I'll have to figure it out. Hmmmmm.......
 

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PostSkank
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Discussion Starter #103
bad93bird said:
Pay attention to how the spring comes off so you will know how it needs to be loaded when you put it back on.
I don't remember how it was on there. I geuss I'll have to figure it out. Hmmmmm.......[/QUOTE]


I have confidence in you, shouldnt be too tough. Just stick everything together and try it out with your hand before you actually weld it together.
 

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I'm going to try it next week. I'm going out of town and need the turd. I'll let you know next week how it all goes.
 

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was it worth it
 

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PostSkank
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Discussion Starter #106
sloth92 said:
was it worth it

well, knowing what I know now, I think I would have done a few other things before I did the manifold. I think I would have been happier doing gears and a tune first.


So, I guess if I could go back do everything in a different order, it would look something like this:

-shift kit
-exhaust
-gears
-MK8 E-fan
-THEN Cobra manifold/TB

But I think I would rather schedule a new set of cylinder heads and headers to go in at the same time I did the manifold, maybe a cam too. Its alot easier than taking the top end off the motor twice.



So, to answer your question, I would take care of alot of other stuff before I went to the trouble of replacing the intake manifold. And even then, these heads are still pretty restrictive.
 

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To expand on those points, if you want to wake these engines up, you really need to build the top end (heads, cam, intake) and put on a good exhaust and then add gears. I realize that to get a good setup like that you are going to spend ~$3000 or more but that's the way it is with these cars.
 

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when i did mine i did headers, intake, cai, 1.7 roller rockers , new trans with a shift kit . it work her up nicely
 

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I've been done with mine for awhile. It's ok. I'm going to sell the bird and get something else for now. I'm tired of working on it and never getting anywhere. The sunroof leaks when it rains and the A.C. just blows on the floor. I'm tired of messing with it. I want something I can just drive and change the fluids when it needs it. I'm tired of fixing things. It's just gotten to be too much with this car.
 

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well does your sun sheld work properly? if the trough is broken it will leak into the car, also the drains could be pluged, the ac thing is a control head or a vaccum motor problem, i have parts i could get you for those too
 

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Motorboatin' SOB, Headlight Cleaning Guru
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bill, i remember seeing a few mn12s at the pick-n-pulls with sunroofs.
 

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PostSlut
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MaddMartigan said:
To expand on those points, if you want to wake these engines up, you really need to build the top end (heads, cam, intake) and put on a good exhaust and then add gears. I realize that to get a good setup like that you are going to spend ~$3000 or more but that's the way it is with these cars.
or just strip the entire car, lose 800 lbs, and it should be close to a 13...;)
 

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Well I got the modem fixed. So I'm back for now. I know very little about the sunroof. I was thinking it was the gasket around the glass. Not sure about it. The passenger front drain is plugged up due to the metal fitting to the hose rusted and I couldn't get it fixed. So I broke it off and plugged it.
Now the A.C. I couldn't figure out. I hear alot of stuff moving around in the dash but it still blows on the floor. So I don't know there. If I could get my service manual to load up on here I can fix it. What do yall think. Now I've got another problem which yall can go check out under the 5.0l section.
 

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So, A 70mm throttle body from a Thunderbird SC would bolt up to a 1995 cobra intake and the throttle cables and cruise control would work?
I have a 1990 35th anniversay that i am putting a 347 stroker and GT40 heads E303 cam 1995 cobra intake with a GT40 NOS plate between the lower and upper.
This thread and the Mac full length header thread has saved me alot of trial and error....Thanks
 

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sc does not have a 70 mm t/b stock more like 60ish
 

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i was saying stock not aftermarket, thats what i thought was being suggested
 

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So, A 70mm throttle body from a Thunderbird SC would bolt up to a 1995 cobra intake and the throttle cables and cruise control would work?
I have a 1990 35th anniversay that i am putting a 347 stroker and GT40 heads E303 cam 1995 cobra intake with a GT40 NOS plate between the lower and upper.
This thread and the Mac full length header thread has saved me alot of trial and error....Thanks
Measure the intake opening. I've measured 2 at 63mm. I don't know what year they were.

Brad
 

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1994 SC 5.0 Cobra

Here is a pic of my 5.0 in a 1994 SC. Mods are as follows; 94/95 Cobra intake, 65mm throttle body, GT 40 iron heads, E303 camshaft installed 2 degrees advanced with frpp multi index timing chain on a stock block 5.0 ho. 3000 rpm lock up T/Q bolted to sfi flexplate inside the bellhousing of a 2000 4r70w trans c/w J-mod.
Fresh rebuilt 3.73 traction lock pumpkin. U4PO pcm c/w sct 4 bank chip.

 
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