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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Whenever my 96 4.6 is cold, it takes 2 tries to start the car.

It will immediately fire up but only runs for 2 seconds before stalling.

On the next try the car fires right up and runs normally although the rpms don't go above 1000.
(edit)..Of course I mean the cold idle is not over 1000, if I goose the gas it revs normally.

When it's warmed up I never have this issue.

No check lights or anything.. the car did come from Florida so it might just be in shock to experience a 20 degree morning LOL.

Thoughts?
 

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my car does the same thing, it wont die unless it is like less than 10 degrees, but when i start it when it is under about 35 it idles realy slow (500rpm) and you can tell it is struggling, also when it is idling if i give it gas then let off suddenly it will stall. so i would also like to see a responce to this question. everything works fine and dandy once it has been running for a while.
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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Sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Try cycling the key once to allow the fuel pump to prime the line before attempting to start. Key on, wait 3-4 seconds, key off, key on, wait 3-4 seconds and then start. It's possible that there's minimal pressure at the rail upon intital startup,and it's just enough to fire the engine, then when it drops out fuel pressure, it stalls. Might be an early indication of a failing fuel pump.
JL
 

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I agree with Johnny. This sounds like the beginning of the end for your fuel pump. I know of someone who drove for 2 years with this type of condition before her fuel pump finally failed completely.
 

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hi, mine,if i haven't ran it in a coupe of hours i will start it and it will idle at 500-650 rpms and when i rev it even just a little it will die,is that the fuel pump
 

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Every year I have to clean my IAC. For some reason it likes to act up starting with the first good freeze. It usually shows itself as a high idle (1500 RPM +), but a few times it wouldn't allow the car to idle at all and I'd have to two-step it all the way to work and back.
 

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Im with JL. I always always always turn the key to the on position and wait for the pump to finish priming before i start the car. My IAC on the sohc often would stick... usually open rather than closed but it seems odd the iac would stick in such a predicable way. That 1000rpm idle is probly part of the programmed cold weather cranking values. Hitting the gas would disrupt this a little. You could think of it as a computer choke i suppose
 

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PostSlut
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Sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Try cycling the key once to allow the fuel pump to prime the line before attempting to start. Key on, wait 3-4 seconds, key off, key on, wait 3-4 seconds and then start. It's possible that there's minimal pressure at the rail upon intital startup,and it's just enough to fire the engine, then when it drops out fuel pressure, it stalls. Might be an early indication of a failing fuel pump.
JL
+1.....
 

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Idle Air Control valve.

It's mounted to the upper intake, by the throttle body. It has a little solenoid that moves a small plunger that controls the amount of air allowed into the engine at idle.

Yeah it's odd it sticks like that every year when it turns cold. It's been doing it since my bird turned over 100,000 miles, over 64,000 miles ago :) I still run the stock IAC that came on the car when I bought it new.
 

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I forgot to warn you about this, i assume you didnt make the same mistake i did when i cleaned mine at cat jam 2 years ago... I had chlorinated brake cleaner with me and used that... Yeah it soaked into the metal and upon going through the engine my exhaust was spewing chlorine gas for a good 15 min. It almost took 3 of us off our feet, i had to jet out of the park and I was launching at every stop sign in the crappy neighborhood around there trying to bake it all out of the intake. On my way out everyone was trying to stop me and ask if i had seafoamed my car, to which i replied, NO, THIS IS TOXIC GAS, GET THE HELL OUTTA THE WAY!!
 
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