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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I found a smoking deal on a DOHC Continental engine. Full 86k engine, wiring harness, pcm, intake with adapters, full serpentine system, everything. My question is, Just how much things will I have to buy to swap my 97 cougar 4.6 car over to it. I know you guys have probably answered this a million times, but I've searched for a while now and couldn't find anything other than someone that wasn't willing to go inside the motor, so he didn't get it. I plan to build this soon for an extra motor (mine has 220k) and for a nice upgrade of course :).

Things I think I might need (tell me if I'm missing anything or if I don't need one of these please)

mk8 oil pan
mk8 timing cover
different radiator
different intake maybe?
tune for my current computer or use another one? (I already have a chip, so maybe just a reburn?)

I have an extra 96 t bird 4.6 motor that I plan to use the block maybe? I'm hoping the rotating assembly will work out of the DOHC engine. Any advice will be greatly appreciated and I kind of need some quick because I don't wanna miss out on this deal! thanks in advance
 

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If the heads are 99-02 C heads, then I see no reason why you shouldn't use the rotating assembly in your iron block or an aluminum explorer block. Of course you'll need new rings and bearings, but the main advantage is that you'll have the proper compression ratio as opposed if you tried to use the 4V heads on an NPI shortblock. For the tune, you can just have your chip re-burned.

How far into the engine building process are you willing to go? Are you willing to balance the rotating assembly? Mill the heads/block flat? Line bore the main bearing journals/rod journals? Obviously this takes serious cash and not paycheck-to-paycheck savings.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mi
If the heads are 99-02 C heads, then I see no reason why you shouldn't use the rotating assembly in your iron block or an aluminum explorer block. Of course you'll need new rings and bearings, but the main advantage is that you'll have the proper compression ratio as opposed if you tried to use the 4V heads on an NPI shortblock. For the tune, you can just have your chip re-burned.

How far into the engine building process are you willing to go? Are you willing to balance the rotating assembly? Mill the heads/block flat? Line bore the main bearing journals/rod journals? Obviously this takes serious cash and not paycheck-to-paycheck savings.
That's more like I wanted to hear. I was wondering why using the rotating assembly would be a problem. I'm willing to spend a little cash on this. Ive got right around $2,000 to get me started, and as far as machine work, I have full access to a machine shop with everything except for a means to balance the rotating assembly, and possibly line boring. So that would be a big expense I know. I guess I should go one step further and ask if a cammed 2v can make around the same power as this stock 4 valve? Because I can afford some cams for mine with a factory rebuild on it. I know that's been asked a million times on here I'm sure, but no time to search before committing to a buy on that motor
 

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You could pick up a Mark motor for so much less money, even if it's just for the shortblock, and you don't even have to do anything to it. Machining a heavy iron block only to swap in a crappy stock rotating assembly parts just makes no sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You could pick up a Mark motor for so much less money, even if it's just for the shortblock, and you don't even have to do anything to it. Machining a heavy iron block only to swap in a crappy stock rotating assembly parts just makes no sense.
You can buy a mark 8 motor for less than $200?! I'll take a few of them
 

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"Ive got right around $2,000 to get me started"


So you're willing to dump two grand to make lemonade from lemons but not willing to pay $3-400 on a complete Mark motor that's already lemonade?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
"Ive got right around $2,000 to get me started"


So you're willing to dump two grand to make lemonade from lemons but not willing to pay $3-400 on a complete Mark motor that's already lemonade?
I see where you're coming from, but I can't get a mark 8 motor quite that cheap around here, ($500 and not guaranteed to run) plus I already have a complete 2 valve motor to use for the block. So the only extra expenses will be line boring and balancing. But then again, the machine work will be well over $300 to justify the savings for the continental motor, so you have a point I suppose
 

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I see where you're coming from, but I can't get a mark 8 motor quite that cheap around here, ($500 and not guaranteed to run) plus I already have a complete 2 valve motor to use for the block. So the only extra expenses will be line boring and balancing. But then again, the machine work will be well over $300 to justify the savings for the continental motor, so you have a point I suppose
Any way you look at it, it will cost a lot of cash. Well over $2,000 when it's all said and done for the whole project. There is nothing "crappy" about the bottom end aside from the fact that you will likely need new bearings. The rods and crank are the same as pretty much any PI/NPI engine. Last I heard you can still run upwards of 6000 RPMs on an NPI/PI bottom end. The continental bottom end is no exception. You can avoid the balancing aspect if you simply use the continental bottom end as a whole, rods/pistons/crank. If your block deck surface is within tolerance you can skip the milling of it too. The heads on the other hand have to be nearly perfect since they're aluminum, but if they are within tolerance you don't have to mill them either. For the rest of the machine work, you have to actually take measurements with the appropriate tools. You may or may not need additional machining---it all depends on the current state of the parts.

Cam'ing a 2V can make power, but there's a lot more to it than just adding in cams. You have to look at the big picture, take a pencil and paper, and write down what everything will cost you, and go from there.
 

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It's crappy compared to the potential work involved to get them in. Decking the heads/block, line boring the journals, getting new bolts or studs, bearings, measuring, tightening, measuring and tightening all to swap stock parts into a heavy iron block? I just don't think it's worth it. Even if the machine work were skipped I wouldn't think it's worth it since it's going to weigh a ton and barely make any more power than a stock Mark motor if the Continental intake and cams are used.
 

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It's crappy compared to the potential work involved to get them in. Decking the heads/block, line boring the journals, getting new bolts or studs, bearings, measuring, tightening, measuring and tightening all to swap stock parts into a heavy iron block? I just don't think it's worth it. Even if the machine work were skipped I wouldn't think it's worth it since it's going to weigh a ton and barely make any more power than a stock Mark motor if the Continental intake and cams are used.
You're not the one doing all that work right? :tongue:
 

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I supposed I should have quoted the actual message there, GM :D

RwP
it was obviously a rhetorical question since he would need to find one for himself where he is. even then yours still didn't meet the criteria :cool:
 

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They charge you to use their lift? I pulled my 102K mileage Mark motor from picknpull on half-price day and paid $90 + $50 core charge with no lift charge. :headbang:
They charge rental on their lift, yes. Although sometimes you don't have to pay for it.

Ideally, you'd hit their sister "concept store" and grab a couple on the "All you can carry on one of our carts for $100" day. And grab a 4R70W or two while you're in there for cores *grins*

RwP
 
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