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TCCoA Bachelor Club Pres.
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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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Do some poking around for threads related to ebay suspension parts. In short... Don't buy them.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Fair enough, looks like I can go to SCP and get the 4 pieces I need for about 200, so that's not a big deal. I really just want to give this thing a good freshening up.

Does the SCP front bushing set have everything I need to replace all the stock front pieces?

To redo the suspension I'm thinking I need new:
control arms(upper and lower)
strut rod ends
sway bar links
tie rods(inner and outer)
rear toe compensator
upper shock mounts(front)
rear spring cups

What am I missing? I feel like parts for the rear aren't on there/underrepresented.

I'm trying to put together a parts/price list. I know for sure one of the uppers needs replaced, and I want to make sure I go through and do a quality job, and upgrade everything. I'm not really looking to alter geometry much, or "improve" the handling per se over the stock setup, I just want it as close to factory new(albeit upgraded in some areas) as possible.

EDIT* So after reading the SCP site, I'll have to order the individual bushings I need if I replace whole pieces, plus the kit only fits stock control arms, which I'll be replacing anyways.

Looking through the suspension page:

Upper control arms(x2) 47.99ea
LCA (x2) 52.99ea
Sway bar links (x2) 32.99ea
Inner Tie Rods (x2) 19.99ea
Outer Tie Rods (x2) 20.99ea
Rear Toe Comp (x2) 59.99ea
Frt Upp Shk Mt 29.99ea
Rear Spring Cups 79.99ea
Rear UCA Bush (x2) 40.99ea
Rear LCA Bush (x2) 29.99ea
Rear Sway end link 25.99ea
Rear Sway Mid Bush 34.99ea
Front Sway Mid Bush 34.99ea
Front Susp Rear Strud
Rod Bushing 129.99ea
Bump Stops 12.99ea
Rear Shock Mounts 52.99ea

Springs(stock or lower)
Up to 249.99ea
Shocks KYB 249.99ea

Grand Total 1413.74

Does this seem somewhat close? Or am I totally off?
 

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Just looking I think you could do a little better shopping around. Go to rock auto and get sway bar links (moog) and shocks you could get the monroe quick struts pretty cheap. Try to get the good Moog stuff and stay away from the parts that have an r in them. I recently scored some original TRW lower control arms at Amazon for $42 each (saving for spares) but it took two weeks to get them. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, after looking at SCP a lot of the pieces have the required bushings, so I can knock off 360 right away, plus I found shocks and spring cups for less, there's another 140, so I'm down to about 900.
 

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i bought my LCA from rock auto. They were not greasable, so I ordered them from SCP and then shipped the rock auto parts back. Also I think SCP is pretty much the "only" place you can get the LCA bushings for the strut rod. I ordered everything i could find on ebay and still bought the SCP ones just to have backups.
 

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I guess I should be ashamed to say that I bought MAS brand upper and lower control arms when I redid my suspension. Level 1 moog went everywhere else pretty much that being the upper and lower tie rod ends. Sway bar end links. controll arms. Stabilizer bar (is that their same as the sway bar?) I'm not a mechanic by no means. Which explains why I can't name what else I did unless I pull out the receipts. Everything except the springs and struts themselves.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The situation I'm in now is I know 1 control arm, upper left, or right needs to be replaced, so says a work order from the previous owner about a year ago, I want to say from some quick change oil place.

I figured if I was going to be tearing it apart, I might as well do it all, and not futz with it for a while. Doing some serious google fu, I can do it for around 1000 I think, but I want to redo the WHOLE thing, not sissy around and half ass it. If this suspension has lasted 20 years, I'd like to not mess with it for another 20, if I can help it. And the way parts are becoming scarce, this might be my best chance to get all the right parts I can.
 

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im by no means a mechanic however everytime ive replaced suspension parts such as the control arms you can tell they are bad according to uneven tire tread wearing and also when you push or pull on the part itself there is just to much movement for it to not be suspending the car properly.
 

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Currently the best control arms are being marketed by Raybestos an ACDelco.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=355562&cc=1198795

They have replaceable balljoints, and are way better than the TRW ones I replaced.

The joints are used several places, and are unlikely to go obsolete at this point.

Everything else may, however. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Currently the best control arms are being marketed by Raybestos an ACDelco.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=355562&cc=1198795

They have replaceable balljoints, and are way better than the TRW ones I replaced.

The joints are used several places, and are unlikely to go obsolete at this point.

Everything else may, however. :D
Would you say the same goes for the lowers, and things like end links, etc? Or is the only weak point really with the uppers, because of the joints and bushings?
 
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