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Why did you do the fronts? Did you just want that fast turn on/off?
Front for me was a combination of that, and reduced power consumption (less battery drain at night, etc.)

Do notice I'm not fanatical about that *grins*

RwP
 

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A few reasons on top of the fast turn on/off:

-Uniform flash front and rear from the side view

-With hyperflash disabled in the flasher I won't know, at least not right away, when the front incandescent bulbs burn out.

-The amber color of the standard bulb reflects off the housing/lens even when off, which somewhat defeats the look of clear/euro corners.
 

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Did any of you have issues with the Zevo bulbs creating a black hole (illumination cold spot) in the center of the taillight housing? I noticed that with mine and decided to return them because that look was too distracting. The black hole expanded and contracted with the low LED on and the high LED blinking, and the two sides were also uneven with the driver's side black hole being more prominent than the passenger side.

I ended up going with Morimoto X-VF bulbs instead and got better results.
 

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Mine light up more even. The black hole is there somewhat, but it's nowhere near the noticability of the hotspot in the center with other LED bulbs or even the stock incandescents. Maybe the larger Cougar housings are more forgiving though




 

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Discussion Starter #25
I've got a bit of a dark circle on my lenses, but it doesn't bother me much.

How much were the X-VF bulbs?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
As an update, with the added 194 bulb on the drivers side I've noticed that if the cruise control is on and I activate my left signal it turns the cruise off. It's mildly annoying, but it seems you should add a small load to both left and right side brake bulbs. Not just one side like I have.
 

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I've got a bit of a dark circle on my lenses, but it doesn't bother me much.

How much were the X-VF bulbs?
Heh, too damn much. Actually, I think I paid about $40 a pair when I got them on sale over July 4th weekend, so it was a little cheaper than usual.

I first tried the Zevo which I returned, then tried out the ACME RedRocket, but despite directing light similarly to the X-VF, the RedRockets lit up the corner taillight housings unevenly and were actually too bright, especially next to the Thunderbird's LED taillight panels. If you weren't paying attention to the CHMSL illumination, the low LEDs in the RedRockets made it look like you were always stepping on your brakes. The X-VF was pricey, but I thought it looked better than everything else I tried in those corner tails.
 

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Yes, to both; or to the BOO switch output.

RwP
 

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I had been running Morimoto X-VF LED bulbs in the corners until one of them quit working recently. That was a blessing in disguise because ever since learning and coming to the conclusion that the X-VF bulbs are awful in our reflector housings, I was looking for an excuse to dump them especially since the warranty on them ran out. I said good things about them two years ago, but I know better now.

When it comes to replacing incandescent bulbs with LEDs on a blinker circuit, I think most people are aware of the hyperflash issue, but once you get past that, beam pattern is still a major consideration that gets overlooked. I already had a terrible experience with the X-VF switchbacks up front, but with the X-VF red, the entire bottom half of the housing was a hot spot. Prior to my decklid taillight upgrade, if you weren’t noticing my CHMSL, it looked like I was riding the brake at night. It wasn't as bad as the TRS Acme RedRockets, but still very noticeable.

I tested three different pairs of red LED 3157 bulbs from Amazon and the pair that I kept are short tower-style bulbs with the same length and similar uniform light distribution as the stock incandescents, but brighter and quicker to illuminate.

Much like how we've learned to not stuff plug-and-play HIDs in reflector headlight housings, the same principles apply to the rear corners. Don’t go for the brightest LED bulb, even though everywhere you browse on Amazon, many automotive LED bulbs boast inflated lumen ratings in the product title. What you really want is a good contrast between high and low signals as well as a beam pattern that works well in our fluted reflector corner taillight housings.


Height comparison between incandescent 3457, Amazenar 3157, and Morimoto X-VF 3157


Top of the bulbs showing how the Morimoto produces a prominent hot spot because of the top heatsink and lens, and the length doesn't help by putting the light closer to the lens of the taillight housing


Morimoto X-VF on the left vs. Amazenar on the right, off the brake; notice how the Morimoto is much brighter even in the bumper reflection


On the brake, they look similar, but the Amazenar has much better light distribution even though it's not as evident in the photo

Here is the link to the Amazenar bulbs, but the bulb style is more important than the brand since they're all marketed under different brands and these links are subject to change all the time on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NA9KJ8F/
 

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Discussion Starter #30
What you really want is a good contrast between high and low signals
Yes, the stock bulbs have about a 10 to 1 ratio of wattage between the 2 elements. A lot of bulbs look like the brakes are always on and you can't tell when they actually do come on or blink. Leds just can't go very dim without special PWM circuitry which no one uses in car bulbs. Zevo's are good in this regard because they use 2 different leds. A smaller dim one and a bigger brighter one.
 

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Thanks Irv! Very, very helpful!
 

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Yes, the stock bulbs have about a 10 to 1 ratio of wattage between the 2 elements. A lot of bulbs look like the brakes are always on and you can't tell when they actually do come on or blink. Leds just can't go very dim without special PWM circuitry which no one uses in car bulbs. Zevo's are good in this regard because they use 2 different leds. A smaller dim one and a bigger brighter one.
I agree. I probably would have kept the Zevo bulbs if it weren't for the cold spot. The Zevo design works well to not blind the driver behind you, but there still needs to be some rearward-facing light in our corner taillight housings, just not a lot of it. A lot of LED bulbs have a dome lens on top to really project the light. That's something that should be avoided in our cars.

Matching the brightness of the incandescent bulbs on the low circuit is even more important on our cars because those corner lights are right next to the decklid LED panels.
 

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The electronic flasher only solves the hyperblink without the need for resistors, cruise will still be an issue.

Buying an electronic flasher isn't necessary btw. Cut this this trace my meter lead is on and hyper flash is disabled.

Can this pic be reposted? I'm having a ***** of a time finding a compatible LED relay, I'm ready to just cut cut a lead if it'll solve the problem.

I also have another issue. I just put in LEds today for the front and rear flashers. They have the rapid flash as expected, but if I use the turn signal while the lights are on the relay makes a loud high pitched whiny buzz sound.
 

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Unfortunately that was my only copy, I made it on the fly on my phone and tinypic gave me no notification the images would be lost.


I would disregard it though, it slowed down hyperflash but still blinked faster than normal for some reason, at a rate right between normal and full hyperflash. There might be two stages to it in these, it works in other vehicles(which is where I learned of it) I just ended up using load resistors in parallel with a stock unmodified flasher instead, works fine.
 

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Unfortunately that was my only copy, I made it on the fly on my phone and tinypic gave me no notification the images would be lost.


I would disregard it though, it slowed down hyperflash but still blinked faster than normal for some reason, at a rate right between normal and full hyperflash. There might be two stages to it in these, it works in other vehicles(which is where I learned of it) I just ended up using load resistors in parallel with a stock unmodified flasher instead, works fine.
Thanks, guess I'll have to do the same.

Any idea what's causing the buzzing sound? Would resistors eliminate it?
 

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The flasher operates basically like a relay and relays make a buzz sound if the voltage is out of their operating range. What are your lights doing when the noise is happening? Are they full on, or dim, or flickering or just blinking normally(besides hyperflash)?


Off/on topic what’s the best parking light 3157s these days? I still have ZEVOs but they’re not near as bright as the red ones are
 

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The flasher operates basically like a relay and relays make a buzz sound if the voltage is out of their operating range. What are your lights doing when the noise is happening? Are they full on, or dim, or flickering or just blinking normally(besides hyperflash)?


Off/on topic what’s the best parking light 3157s these days? I still have ZEVOs but they’re not near as bright as the red ones are
I didn't even look, I just switched it off immediately. But it only happens when the lights are on.

The LEDs I went with are Antline https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HTPJF2/?coliid=IS9YDVXHBCNRU&colid=2EEWEMBS87FGW&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
They are plenty bright even in daylight, and have good contrast between high and low.
 

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I just ended up using load resistors in parallel with a stock unmodified flasher instead, works fine.
I got some resistors (8 ohm) and male/female light sockets and made my own plug & play adapters. Rears work perfect but I still get rapid flash in front, same as if no resistors were in place. Any ideas what's going on here?
 

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I got some resistors (8 ohm) and male/female light sockets and made my own plug & play adapters. Rears work perfect but I still get rapid flash in front, same as if no resistors were in place. Any ideas what's going on here?
That's ... weird.

Since the same flasher blinks both.

Can we get a 360* video of it on 4-ways?

RwP
 

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Can we get a 360* video of it on 4-ways?
I don't have anything to shoot decent video with. But the rear LEDs function perfect with regular bulbs in the front, but all four rapid flash with LEDs in front. The parking lights light up fine (and look great in my new clear corners), and the resistor heats up when flashing so I know it's wired correctly.

For the time being I just put the regular bulbs back in the front.
 
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