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Super Moderator
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Discussion Starter #1
here simple way to convert a 96+ 4-pin MAF harness into a 6-pin to use with a newer style MAF like the popular 2002+ GT MAF that uses an integrated IAT

well first of all you need two additional female-quick slide connectors, like those that are already in the car's MAF connector...they look like this:



i bought an extra MAF harness from JamesD, just incase i messed something up, but everything went ok......the two female connectors that i got from my extra MAF harness are indentical to the ones that the IAT harness has in it:



unfortunately to remove them without completely dismantling the IAT harness is pretty difficult.......i had to literally cut open my old MAF harness to get the connectors to come out.........so i figure the same has to be done with the IAT harness........the good thing is that you wont need the IAT harness anymore :) ......once you pry the yellow plastic off the connectors with a small flat-blade screwdriver or similar, you can use a set of wire cutters to start carefully snipping off the plastic until you get to the connectors

then you can remove the yellow piece of plastic that partially obscures the connectors in the MAF harness by prying it off just like the IAT harness.....it should pop right out without hassle


then simply drill out the two wire spots that are blocked off, with a drill bit......i used a 9/64", but anything close will do:



then you will use the two IAT connectors and put them thru the holes you just drilled.....mine are shown cut, because i had already tinkered with the wiring before.....if you are stock then your wires will be intact:



this is what it will look like with the connectors in place:



the new connectors will not lie perfectly where they should be, since there is no provision for them......i simply put a dab of RTV silicone (any adhesive will do) to the bottom part of the connector so they can line up with the orignal 4 connectors on the harness......you can simply jam a small object in the small space circled in red in the above picture so the connectors can stay in place while the adhesive dries

this is what it will look like once you replace the yellow plastic over the connectors, which will also help hold them in place when the harness is connected to the male tabs from the MAF



i had to solder short pieces of wire (you wont have to if stock) to connect the new wires on the MAF harness to the original IAT wires:



then after covering the solder joints with electrical tape, gathering all the 6 wires together and using split loom tubing with electrical tape over it, the final result was a factory looking 6-wire MAF assembly:



sorry for the blurry pic.....cheap digicams can't focus well at close distances i guess :D

hopefully you guys will find this info useful
 

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Full Metal
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4,744 Posts
wow, you took those pics 2 years ago? woah, you had to keep this under wraps that long?














j/k, had to give you a hard time about the date, lol, nice write-up:thumbsup:.....:D
 

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Super Moderator
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Discussion Starter #3
yea man, this was top-secret classified info.....i just got cleared to release this to civilians....haha

i figured you out of all people would mention that :) ......batteries popped out of the digicam accidentally and i didn't set the date :)
 

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Chapter Director Coordinator
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oh.. so you DID get the pigtail?

thanks for telling me you turd

:)
 

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Refrigerator Raider Hater
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Good info considering the pigtail from ford is $28.
 

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GreenBird said:
Good info considering the pigtail from ford is $28.
..only $28......it's 39.95 up here......I just went to the local U-Wrench and pulled one out of a newer Ford..........
 

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Super Moderator
1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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Hate to resurrect, but I figured adding info is better than starting new. There's a way to get the wires with the metal leads out of the IAT harness without destroying it - if you have a small flat blade screwdriver (like the kind you get with eyeglasses repair kits), you can stick it down into the side opposite the contact where there's a plastic locking tab. Get it as close as you can to the metal contact up against the tab, then push the tab away from the contact and pull down on the wire a bit and it will allow the contact to slide out freely.


You can see where the locking tabs are in this pic...


And here's how they look when you get the wires out.
 

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Super Moderator
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
there ya go

i dont mind destroying things...destroying things is cool :)

and wow its been 4 years already since i did that.....how time flies...now I've moved up and run a Ford GT supercar slot-maf in the LMAF 90mm housing :)





 

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Premium Member
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271 Posts
Does anyone know if this can be done to a 95 t-bird. I know it said 96+. I have the pigtail, sensor and housing(part of an old project).
 

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for pin removal, on every connector i've ever seen, there is a little hole, or slot somewhere, either in the front, above each prong(that's what it looks like in your pic) you should be able to shove either a pin or something small and flt into the slot. apply a little pressure and it will release the clip that holds the pin in, and you should be able to slide the pin right out.


I've removed lots of pins from various harnesses and this is how it's done.
 

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Super Moderator
1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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9,940 Posts
That's what I figured when I read this the first time; when I need to disconnect the contacts from Molex connectors in a computer application, I find some way to disengage the locking tabs and the contacts slide right out. Same principle with electrical zip-ties. So I thought, "why not try this on the bird" and well, it worked.

Maestro (or anyone who knows), does the polarity of the IAT sensor matter? IE, if I accidentally get them in backwards, it won't skew the readings?
 
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