[BlueEyes]

It looks like in Robs and Rods pictures they used a 45 degree bend it's just pointing back towards the firewall some.

 

[XR7-4.6]

I bought my 45* bend because of Rods and Robs setups. I didn't realize until I was mocking it all up on mine that the sway bar was going to be in the way with that path.

 

[Splattered]

I bought my 45* bend because of Rods and Robs setups. I didn't realize until I was mocking it all up on mine that the sway bar was going to be in the way with that path.

He has an addco front bar btw. I looked at the pump and possible routing and it looks very similar.

 

[BlueEyes]

Yes I do have the ADDCO 1-1/4" front sway bar on there. Will be 45 degree be enough or does it need to come more straight down. Maybe a 33 degree elbow?

 

[racecougar]

My line clears the ADDCO 1.25" bar just fine using a 45* hose end at the pump.

 

[XR7-4.6]

He has an addco front bar btw. I looked at the pump and possible routing and it looks very similar.

The Addco bars are derived off the SC bar layout. As I said the 45* is perfectly fine in both situations

 

[Splattered]

The Addco bars are derived off the SC bar layout. As I said the 45* is perfectly fine in both situations

Have you closely looked at what the NA 6 pump routing looks like? Im just asking because its not exactly like the 4.6 set routing. Id hate for kelly to buy the wrong parts.

 

[rmfk13]

Theyre pretty damn close, they both end up wrapping around to the passenger side and back to the drivers side, Another mod for the 3.8 cars I was thinking about would be to ditch the puny little cooler located in the fender, and replacing it with the 4.6L power steering cooler.The holes are already there for the 4.6 cooler to get mounted behind the front bumper. I did that when I did the motor swap

 

[Splattered]

Theyre pretty damn close, they both end up wrapping around to the passenger side and back to the drivers side, Another mod for the 3.8 cars I was thinking about would be to ditch the puny little cooler located in the fender, and replacing it with the 4.6L power steering cooler.The holes are already there for the 4.6 cooler to get mounted behind the front bumper. I did that when I did the motor swap

No kidding??? LOL I did that to his car already. The bad part was a shop broke blueyes' PS cooler and without telling him they tried to cover it up. So as a real fix I just got a v8 version and flipped it around.

 

[RalphP]

I'm doing this to my 1991 with the 5.0HO.

A few notes:

It takes more than 11" to reach, due to the high mount power steering pump.

If you're doing this, don't chop up the return hose - that's where the cooler is :facepalm:

Also, it looks like a 90* fitting on the pump for the high pressure side is better than the 45* due to the fit.

I'm running the hoses up against the shock tower in order to clear the exhaust headers/manifolds.

I'm also using one of those too-small transmission coolers for my PS cooler. It ought to be, if anything, too big

RwP

 

[RalphP]

Due to how the 5.0HO is laid out, it uses some slightly different parts.

After doing mine, I can say that you CAN use a pair of 90 degree fittings.

I used a 90 at the rack and a 45 at the pump - which fits, and works well, but a pair of 90s would be better.

I used one of these at the rack for a new elbow, one of these for the AN-6 adapter, and one of these at the pump. Two of the first would fit. I used a pair of these for the adapters. I used 24" of hose, but as the pics below show, something more like 16" would fit better (straight up and down).

I ran it in the middle of the A/C manifold so as to help keep it from shaking into the manifolds, but I may have been paranoid about that.

RwP

Pics below:

45* fitting:

90* fitting:

AN-6 adapter:

Hoses out of back of pump (from top):

 

[Rayo]

Good Job Ralph!


:thumbsup:







Rayo..

 

[1955-86]

I appreciate all of the comments in this thread, they have helped to give me a clearer idea of what to do.

There was an old pump on my toolbox to test and make sure all will be well with the blue (Russel) fitting. I took some time to study how it fits into the pump. Close study of the pump shows two ports cut into the threaded area of approximately the same depth relative to the threads. One goes to the EVO Solenoid and the other apparently comes from the pump rotor and is the output going to our new hose. After doing some measurements I used a 7/8" socket to hold the fitting and ground off 0.130" from it. The edge of the socket served as a guide to make a square cut. I wouldn't remove much more of the threads, the cut I made has the fitting going in at a similar depth to the OEM fitting. A little clean up with a small file and some Brake Cleaner and it's good to go.
After installing the new fitting in the test pump and tightening it up I could inspect the installation through the EVO hole and see that the port(s) is/are not blocked.
Use a nylon or copper washer between the blue fitting and the pump. Don't use any kind of rubber "O" Ring unless you want the front of your engine washed off with Mercon V like mine was.

I had a great deal of trouble R&Ring the pulley. It's still not on all the way, and I'm still working out the new placement of the Oil Pressure Sender Unit.

Now it's all together and no P/S leaks. But I get to go back under and do it all again because the Oil Filter Adapter is leaking (sigh). Taking a few days off.

 

[RalphP]

Note. When installing the Russel fitting at the steering pump elbow, be $PROFANITY sure that you get it more than finger tight.

And if you decide to use a built hose, on the 5.0HO - no, 14" is NOT long enough as long as you want an oil filter on the motor.

Color me "Feel Stupid"

RwP

 

[nall_one]

huh, i tried this a while back and it was awful. i had the same issues a lot are describing with the fitting bottoming out in the pump, making its squeal and burn the mercV brown in 30miles...

afterwords i couldn't get the m14's to seal worth a dang, and after fighting with it, and taking the line off the rack elbow more times then i could count trying to reseal the compression fittings, i just gave up and put the gates OEM style hose on and called it a day....

now that leaks at the pump a bit as well... leaving a decent amount of fluid on the driver side cat and down the bottom of the car.

i also ran into this...

love my oil guage mod, would recommend it to anyone. but this is just something to expect if you try and do both.

Now it's all together and no P/S leaks. But I get to go back under and do it all again because the Oil Filter Adapter is leaking (sigh). Taking a few days off.

you can also see MY oil filter adapter gasket was leaking slightly their on the filter... fixed that a while back, after i got all this stuff done and the pump back in -_- so your are not alone where that is concerned

kind of making me want to try it again... i had the thought that maybe the fitting could be cut down a bit, it had this weird protuberance on it with an O-ring that i didn't remember seeing in the writeup...

 

[XR7-4.6]

The fitting with the O ring at the end is the wrong one. The correct one seals with a teflon O-ring at the collar like the OE line. I updated the article some time ago with the new part number. The original draft had the same style fitting you used (with the small O-ring at the end) and is what I originally used with similar leakage issues.

You might still need to cut down the threads a bit with the new adapters since our pumps have orifices in the center of the threads though.

I didn't realize the oil gauge mod sender would interfere like that. Looks like an easy fix though. Splice in a flat connector with a nut

 

[1955-86]

I took out the plug on the bottom of the Oil Filter Adapter and used a short nipple and an elbow to move the sender completely out of the way. Also had to extend the wire.
It still leaks a drop of oil but I think that's the drain plug. The last time I looked the P/S hose was dry.

 

[Splattered]

I used a 90 degree elbow and some solder andheat shrink to extend the wire form the oil pressure sender. I too did the variable pressure sender mod and the high pressure line mod so I know what IM talking about making clearances. Putting on a flat connector actually isnt going to cut it LOL, you need like 1 mm more room than that. I know cause I tried. Im actually getting ready to swap in a used OEM power steering pump because the autozone units just make too much damn noise and Im sure my EVO isnt working properly. Im also adding bigger power steering cooler and bending up hardline for it. So Ill definitely be taking pictures and giving a details tour on that.

 

[Chad N.]

For those of us that have a leaky pump elbow fitting, but don't want to drop the rack to install the other end of this mod:

How about hacksawing the line before the power steering pump elbow and somehow adapting the line to connect to only the pump side of this mod?

I don't know much about adapting high pressure lines to work without leaking. Could someone more knowledgeable show how this could be done?

 

[XR7-4.6]

I added this to the main article but figured I'd post it here as well.

A bit of tweaking is necessary for the Russell Performance 670530 - Russell AN to Metric Adapter Fittings. There's an EVO(presumably) related orifice drilled through the center of the threads in the power steering pump that these fittings will obstruct. The solution to this is to grind approximately 3/16" off the metric end of the fitting to prevent blockage.




Here's the factory fitting vs the Russel. You can see how much further the threads extend on the adapter:



I used tape as a marker for the grinder - go slowly, since the fitting is aluminum the grinder will cut through it like butter:



Post grinding, pull the tape off and clean it up(depending on the tape you used the heat from the grinder may have left tape residue)



Use 400 grit sandpaper on the edges to make sure there's no loose material and ensure it will thread into the pump without cross threading.



Note* I installed the dorman seal prior to grinding, I didn't want to risk it being damaged by slipping it over a rougher ground surface. If you do this be sure you mask the WHOLE fitting before grinding to prevent it getting contaminated by bits of aluminum.