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Discussion Starter #1
My car seems to take a fair amount of time to heat up properly after sitting out all night, It's starting to get cold here. I looked at my coolant and it looks bad, like really weak looking. I'm going to flush it, I was just wondering would this be the problem or would the T-stat also be the problem. And I was just reading up on doing the flush, but now I've read so much stuff I'm not exactly sure what to do, I know how to let it drain out of the bottom, but it's the other stuff that I'm not too sure of, like removing the heater hose or which ever one it is. I'm not dumb I just don't know anything about cars and want to make sure I do it right. So if some one could run through it for me that would be great. And if I should replace my T-stat what kind should I get, what's the difference between a 180 and a 160. I probably won't want to get a chip so I should go with a 160 right. Sorry for the length of this, I just want to make sure I'm doing this right. Thanks



Justin
 

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This thread, from a while back, has some good pointers about how to do the flush. I installed a Prestone tee kit in the heater hose, and it makes flushing a lot easier.

What I did:

1. Drain coolant via draincock (lower right of radiator)
2. Splice in tee on hose at right rear of engine
3. Replace radiator hoses (just because they were old)
4. Backflush cooling system
5. Remove thermostat; completely drain system, and close draincock
6. Add in 50/50 mixture of coolant/water via thermostat housing (with tee open)
7. Close tee when coolant is observed at tee
8. Install new thermostat, O ring, and reattach adapter housing (tighten bolts to a whopping 15-22 lb-ft.).
9. Fill reservoir to Full mark.
10. Run engine with heat on maximum, until thermostat opens (Service Manual says with pressure cap off).
11. Top off coolant reservoir with 50/50 mixture of coolant/water
12. Install reservoir cap.

That procedure is sort of a combination of what's posted in the Cooling section of the Technical Articles, and what's written in the Service Manual. I think it works quite well, and I haven't observed any air pocket problems.

Regarding the thermostat, if your car doesn't have an upgrade chip, stay with the stock thermostat (195º). If the engine computer doesn't know there's a 180º 'stat installed, the fan will continue to turn on at 195º (I think stock was 195º).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok, thanks for all the info. What brand of T-stat should I by, keeping in mind i'm in canada. And will it come with everything I need. Will I need a gasket or an O-ring?
 

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I'm not sure what brands are available in Canada, but I don't think you can go wrong by visiting a local dealership parts counter and getting a Motorcraft thermostat. You'll need an O-ring.

I guess I should take a look around, next time I'm in Ontario, and see what's available in the parts stores!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ya, I guess a motorcraft one would be a safe bet. I imagine they would have the O-rings there as well. Also I was wondering would it be a bad idea to make the mixture stronger than 50/50. Cause of the cold weather we get here, it get to like -30/-40, sometimes a bit more.
 

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Here's the low-down from the 1994 Service Manual. Most references I read say to go with 50/50, but take a look at the second note after step #2.

Cooling System, Draining, Filling and Bleeding

WARNING:
NEVER REMOVE RADIATOR OR COOLING SYSTEM CAP UNDER ANY CONDITIONS WHILE ENGINE IS OPERATING. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS COULD RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY AND/OR DAMAGE TO THE COOLING SYSTEM OR ENGINE.

WARNING:
TO AVOID BURNS FROM SCALDING COOLANT OR STEAM, USE EXTREME CARE WHEN REMOVING THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.

1. With the engine off and sufficiently cool, remove pressure relief cap, openradiator draincock (8115) and remove the cylinder block drain plug(s) (if equipped) and allow coolant to drain.

2. Close radiator draincock. Hand-tighten.

NOTE:
Coolant level cannot be accurately checked while the engine is running.

NOTE:
It important to maintain engine coolant concentrate between 40 percent, 24°C (-11°F) and 60 percent 52°C (-62°F), depending on climate conditions. Below 40 percent there is a loss of freeze protection. Above 60 percent, the engine may overheat on a warm day. Outside this range, protection against rust and corrosion may be greatly reduced. Refer to «Specifications» for specified coolant.

3. Check all hose clamps for proper tightness and location. Ensure radiator draincock is closed and cylinder block drain plug(s) are installed (if equipped).

4. Place heater temperature selector in maximum heat position.

CAUTION:
The vent plug must be removed before radiator fill or the engine may not fill completely. Do not turn plastic cap under vent plug or the gasket may be damaged. Do not try to add coolant through vent plug hole. Install vent plug after filling radiator and before starting engine.

5. Remove vent plug on water bypass elbow (located on intake manifold (9424) behind water hose connection (8592)) on 3.8L engines.

6. Fill engine cooling system with 50/50 mixture of antifreeze solution and water.

WARNING:
TO AVOID THE POSSIBILITY OF PERSONAL INJURY OR DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE, DO NOT OPERATE ENGINE WITH VEHICLE HOOD OPEN UNTIL FAN BLADE HAS BEEN FIRST EXAMINED FOR POSSIBLE CRACKS AND SEPARATION.

7. Leave pressure relief cap off and run engine until water thermostat (8575) opens (coolant flowing through upper radiator hose (8260) becomes hot).

8. Stop engine and add 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water to engine cooling system as necessary to adjust level.

9. Add a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze solution and water to the FULL HOT mark on the radiator coolant recovery reservoir (8A080).

10. Install pressure relief cap.

11. On 3.8L engines install cooling system vent plug. Tighten to 10-15 N-m (8-11 lb-ft).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, sounds good, I'll probably go with alittle above 50/50. Thanks for all the help, I'll get the T-stat tomorrow and see what I can do weather permiting of course, I don't really know what's what yet, but I should be able to figure it out. So thanks for everything.
 

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Note:

If you do not install the flush kit when you do the T-Stat swap, make sure you leave the T-Stat out, and put enough new anti-freeze back in until it runs freely out the T-Stat opening. This will allow trapped air to escape. Then go ahead and put the T-stat in and close her back up.

Also, try to get a T-Stat with the little bleed hole. That way, when you drain and re-fill your anti-freeze, the trapped air can escape thru the little hole in the T-Stat without having to remove it.
 

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Rolling-Thunder said:
Note:



Also, try to get a T-Stat with the little bleed hole. That way, when you drain and re-fill your anti-freeze, the trapped air can escape thru the little hole in the T-Stat without having to remove it.
or you can drill out your own bleed hole. i did this to mine 94. engine run cooler too.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I was going to ask about that, how to make sure there won't be any air in it still. So thanks. I just want to make sure where the T-stat is I believe it's on the top of the engine, like the front driver side corner. Like I said I don't know much about cars. And so I just fill it up from the rad cap opening until it's flowing freely out of there then put the T-stat in and close it up? Also it's just a couple of bolts to take it out right? And the heater hose, I need to take that off to properly drain the system right? Where exactly is that and how will I know it from other hoses, I read at the rear passenger side? top or bottom? Sorry for all the questions I just want to make sure I don't screw this up, or forget anything. Thanks for all the help.
 

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You don't need to take it off to drain the system, but to properly FLUSH the system you'll need to , by splicing the connector into the heater hose. and why would you have to take out the thermostat or the upper hose to drain the system??
 
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