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Discussion Starter #1
ok yet another problem. I am having a problem with my coolant devloping pressure when ever i start the car. I am trying to figure out if it is just an air bubble or what. if I have the rad. cap all the way on and the vent plug closed and start the car the rad. cap starts to vent the pressure off, and if i have the rad. cap open one click it starts pumping coolant out. any ideas? In case you dont know i recently did a hg swap. HELP wife is getting very annoyed that the car STILL is not running.
 

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Sorry about your luck but it sounds like the HG didn't seal. the engine shouldn't be pumping coolant out like that.

Pull the 3.8 and put a 4.6 in it; or get it running, sell it, and get a Tbird/Cougar with a 4.6 You'll save yourself money and heartache in the long run.

Good luck getting it diagnosed and fixed properly.
 

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your coolant system sounds to being presurized by the combustion chamber not gona lie you have a problem lol
 

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Had the same thing on a vehicle that needed head gasket replacement. On that vehicle, the heater and bypass hoses gave out under the pressure as well, though they did look like the originals with the car.
 

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headgaskets..... my system pressurized wierd whenever mine had blown.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
what is the proper specs for the head gasket tightening? I just replaced the gaskets and now this problem. BTW the wrench i have is in inch pounds if someone could give the specs in that. Cant sell the car, to me sentimental reasons and no new motor, just replaced this one. :D
 

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what is the proper specs for the head gasket tightening? I just replaced the gaskets and now this problem. BTW the wrench i have is in inch pounds if someone could give the specs in that. Cant sell the car, to me sentimental reasons and no new motor, just replaced this one. :D
OMG! :eek: You didn't torque the heads? :boom:

5. For 3.8L non-SC engine, tighten cylinder head retaining bolts in numerical sequence (sorry, I could not get the picture of the sequence) in three steps as follows:

a. 20 N-m (15 Lb-Ft)

b. 40 N-m (29 Lb-Ft)

c. 50 N-m (37 Lb-Ft)

6. CAUTION: Do not loosen all of the bolts at the same time, only work on one bolt at a time or possible damage to engine or leakage may occur.

In sequence, loosen retaining bolts two to three revolutions and retighten bolts one at a time in the following manner:

a. Long bolts:

l 15-25 N-m (11-18 lb-ft).

l Tighten bolt an additional 85-95 degrees.

l Go to next bolt in sequence.

b. Short bolts:

l 10-20 N-m (7-15 lb-ft).

l Tighten bolt an additional 85-95 degrees.

l Go to next bolt in sequence.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I knew someone was going to think that i didnt torque them, I DID with new bolts; i just wanted to make sure I did them correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok one more quick question before i rip back into her, I know the head gaskets are "crush" gaskets, however does anyone recommend using some kind of sealant as well for extra insurance?
 

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I have heard of people using spray-on copper gasket maker, but never for 3.8-specific applications. Definitely wouldn't use any kind of "goo" sealer.
 

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Any silicon gasket sealant used in the engine will ultimatly ruin the o2's. If at all costs, do not use sealants, use gaskets - even if you have to make your own with a razor and a whole punch.
 

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beer boxes make good gaskets.... jsut buy some new felpro ones and be done with it....
 

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I used Cornoa boxes and they worked better than the Bud boxes. Bud did not get more than 12k before blowing... Corona got about 18k... :tongue:

 
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