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5oh Transformer
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Discussion Starter #1
on my 96tbird i need to know where my coolant sensor wire is? i have no idea. would it be on the old fuel rail? if so then i need to start tracing it down. thanks
 

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5oh Transformer
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Discussion Starter #4
is it a lone wire? or does it connect to the fuel rail wire?
 

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Uhm.... that you tend to drink a lot on other peoples dime... :zbeer:

Just kidding... nothing but praise and glory! :bowdown:
 

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The coolant temp sensor for the PCM is on the passenger side of the intake manifold. The coolant temp sender for the gauge is on the driver side of the intake manifold in the fitting for the bypass hose from the water pump.
I had a question about this sensor as I'm building up my tbird 24 Hours of Lemons track car.



Q: Looking at the above picture (not my engine bay, just one I googled online and edited), is the water temp gauge's temp sender the single wire one mounted underneath the coolant air purge valve?

If so, is there any issue with me just removing it and screwing in my aftermarket temp sender from my Autometer gauge in the same spot?
- I don't care if the in-cluster water gauge becomes dead (cheaper than buying another 10-15 of fittings to make add a "T" and install BOTH sensors).

Q: Will the check engine or check gauges light come on with that wire disconnected?
If so, I'll just replace the gauge with a resistor (sized to the original temp sender's resistance).

Thanks in advance for your tips.
BTW, I tried removing the square plug that seems to go into the intake (thinking it may be another coolant channel port but not having a square socket and that socket being there since 1995 has complicated things). IMO, the best place to install the aftermarket gauge's sender in the factory location.

Regards,
-g




Q:
 

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The sensor you have circled is the sender for the gauge only. It can be disconnected and not affect anything but the gauge.
 

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The sensor you have circled is the sender for the gauge only. It can be disconnected and not affect anything but the gauge.
Minor addendum: It will also affect the "Check Gauges" light, so a resistor in its place may be better. See if it lights up with the connector pulled first, though - even at 50 cents, that's still 50 cents out of your budget.

RwP
 

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Minor addendum: It will also affect the "Check Gauges" light, so a resistor in its place may be better. See if it lights up with the connector pulled first, though - even at 50 cents, that's still 50 cents out of your budget.

RwP
Instrumentation along with safety equipment (ex: brakes and tires) are "free".
Plus, in qty 100, resistors are 2c from jameco.com AND they allow for local pickup.

-g
 

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Instrumentation along with safety equipment (ex: brakes and tires) are "free".
Plus, in qty 100, resistors are 2c from jameco.com AND they allow for local pickup.

-g
True. But if it DOESN'T light up when it's unplugged, you're good to go with it unplugged.

OTOH - if instrumentation is "free", why not grab an all-threads galvanized nipple and a "Tee" and some nylon tape?

RwP
 

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True. But if it DOESN'T light up when it's unplugged, you're good to go with it unplugged.

OTOH - if instrumentation is "free", why not grab an all-threads galvanized nipple and a "Tee" and some nylon tape?

RwP
Simple: We're cheap and we could care less about the factory gauge :)
-g
 
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