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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I plan on piecing this together since i guess apten is gone. Ive read that ford offers the 2 metal pieces that bolt in the back of the heads from them, but i cant find the part # anywhere. So if someone can give me a part #, that'd be greaaaat.
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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this is what on a 93 mark8 engine stock...only on passenger side though.



 

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don't do the crack pipe method coolant mod on a 2v

the best method on a 2v is to put a fitting in the intake manifold at the driver side rear and pull the coolant from the top and either route it to the heater core like the passenger side(using a brass T) or return it to the front crossover...doing the crackpipe method works on the 4v but on the 2v the chamber is different and doesn't adequately cool the top of the head
 

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sleepinggt said:
don't do the crack pipe method coolant mod on a 2v

the best method on a 2v is to put a fitting in the intake manifold at the driver side rear and pull the coolant from the top and either route it to the heater core like the passenger side(using a brass T) or return it to the front crossover...doing the crackpipe method works on the 4v but on the 2v the chamber is different and doesn't adequately cool the top of the head

why is that? if the crackpipe is there it's better than nothing right? for mild setup maybe it's fine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
im still tryin to see why to only put it in the driver side? and as for the part for the other one.. after looking at more pics, both of them are the same i believe.
 

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Casper said:
why is that? if the crackpipe is there it's better than nothing right? for mild setup maybe it's fine?
not necessarily, on 2v's the crackpipe method pulls coolant from that side but it doesn't drain the hottest coolant from the top of the cylinder which still leaves a hot spot at that area, it may help some but wont be significant...thats why the taping the intake works best on 2v's it pulls from the very top of the cylinder where the hottest coolant is located


ZackG said:
im still tryin to see why to only put it in the driver side? and as for the part for the other one.. after looking at more pics, both of them are the same i believe.
the passenger side one takes coolant through the heater core and back into the water pump area(tube in the valley under the intake manifold)
 

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I too would like to see some pictures. For the benefit of those not blessed with the knowledge as to what a crack pipe looks like. ;)
 

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Woa, hold up a seccond. Where can I get more info on what this cooling mod even is? Is there a writeup somewhere?
 

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An alternative to the "crack pipe" method for the DOHC guys is this:

This fitting:



Replaces the freeze plug at the top rear of the driverside head, like so:



And it tees into the heater core to water pump return hose:





A few places sell that fitting in a full cooling mod kit. I was able to pick up the fitting without the rest of the kit via dealing with a company called Lethal Performance.

-Rod
 

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Your pic shows a good shot of how it's run back into the cross-over, but I can't see where it attaches on the intake.

How do you tap the driver's side intake?

Very interesting.

Rob
 

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Thanks for the link Zach.

So, basically, I need to add a fitting to the rear driver's side of the PI intake, and connect it with a T-fitting to the tubing going to the back of the water pump. That way, coolant gets sucked to the top of the #8 cyllander, cooling it down to prevent knock?

Do I have to drill that coolant passage? Or is it already done?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
every link ive seen is different where you get the coolant from. How im going to do it is drill into the front crossover like sleepingt did it. I just hope it goes alright being i have the plastic crossover still.
 

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girdnerg said:
Your pic shows a good shot of how it's run back into the cross-over, but I can't see where it attaches on the intake.

How do you tap the driver's side intake?

Very interesting.

Rob
yes i drilled and tap'd the intake with a 3/8 npt and put in a 3/8x1/2 barbed hose fitting, it's very important to go slowly(also a good idea if it is really cold outside to do it indoors), i expect that there is a "risk" of cracking it but i've done 3 so far and none have cracked and i've not heard of anyone cracking it as of yet...a good thing to do is to lightly sand around the hole and make sure it is very clean and then put jb weld on the threads, screw in about 7/8 of the way and then put JB weld around the base of it so that it can bond well with the sanded area(if you are careful you can make it look relatively clean but i slathered it on there because i was in a bit of a hurry)


ZackG said:
every link ive seen is different where you get the coolant from. How im going to do it is drill into the front crossover like sleepingt did it. I just hope it goes alright being i have the plastic crossover still.
the ford coolant mod and the one racecougar posted are both for DOHC, there was never one made for the SOHC(the 2v's like mustang gt's etc.) some people have adapted the ford part to the 2v but the 4v's coolant passages in the heads are SIGNIFICANTLY different and will not work very well...the freeze plug on the 2v heads is much lower and pulling coolant there does not allow flow to the highest part of the cylinder head, drilling a hole in the top of the plastic intake pulls coolant from the very top where it is hottest and needs flow the most to prevent hot spots(localized boiling)
 

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Silenced said:
Thanks for the link Zach.

So, basically, I need to add a fitting to the rear driver's side of the PI intake, and connect it with a T-fitting to the tubing going to the back of the water pump. That way, coolant gets sucked to the top of the #8 cyllander, cooling it down to prevent knock?

Do I have to drill that coolant passage? Or is it already done?
that's one way of doing it, and yes you do have to drill it
 
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