TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all,

I've been reading a few old threads about jacking up the car properly, but I'm still having some trouble.

Just bought a new floor jack. It's actually a low profile trolley jack, but it has a good lift height and it's pretty well built.
My issue is that it doesn't reach the k member by just a few inches. It can reach the rear lift point fine because the rear bumper clears the jack handle, but the front bumper is just too long. This jack was mostly for another car, but I've been trying to make it work by jacking up one side at time and setting it on jack stands, which works fine. I'd rather not buy another jack just for that.
Is it okay that I've been using this (they were already bent when I bought the car):
Or should I just get a pinch weld adapter? Yes, I'm aware that if a piece of metal is badly bent, then it probably can't handle the weight, but I had some work to do and I used a block of wood.

Anything else on the front end that I can use for jacking that's closer to the front?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
412 Posts
Hello all,

I've been reading a few old threads about jacking up the car properly, but I'm still having some trouble.

Just bought a new floor jack. It's actually a low profile trolley jack, but it has a good lift height and it's pretty well built.
My issue is that it doesn't reach the k member by just a few inches. It can reach the rear lift point fine because the rear bumper clears the jack handle, but the front bumper is just too long. This jack was mostly for another car, but I've been trying to make it work by jacking up one side at time and setting it on jack stands, which works fine. I'd rather not buy another jack just for reason.
Is it okay that I've been using this (they were already bent when I bought the car):
Or should I just get a pinch weld adapter? Yes, I'm aware that if a piece of metal is badly bent, then it probably can't handle the weight, but I had some work to do and I used a block of wood.

Anything else on the front end that I can use for jacking that's closer to the front?
According to the factory service manual, in the front, the K member is the only lift point. I place of a pinch weld adapter, you can use a hockey puck.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,171 Posts
That poor torque box. If you're going to do that jack under section of it that goes over the frame rail, that's where all the metal comes together so it's very strong, whereas the torque box is completely hollow.

Me personally I use a small second jack (like a factory scissor one)under the strut rod mount just to get the front end high enough for my big jack to operate under the center of the K member.
 

·
̇
Joined
·
3,701 Posts
XR7-4.6 said:
Me personally I use a small second jack (like a factory scissor one)under the strut rod mount just to get the front end high enough for my big jack to operate under the center of the K member.
X2

It would be nice if they made an aluminum jack that you could slide under the center of the K-Member..
That way you wouldn't have to use 2 different jacks..







Rayo..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies.
I think I'm just gonna use the frame rail that's just ahead of the torque box, where I put the jack stands. Or I might just get a pinch weld adapter.

So that torque box, it's normally straight, right?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,171 Posts
X2

It would be nice if they made an aluminum jack that you could slide under the center of the K-Member..
That way you wouldn't have to use 2 different jacks..







Rayo..
Yeah well It would have been nice if Ford didn't make the front overhang 3 feet long too :tongue:

Thanks for the replies.
I think I'm just gonna use the frame rail that's just ahead of the torque box, where I put the jack stands. Or I might just get a pinch weld adapter.

So that torque box, it's normally straight, right?
Yes it's supposed to be a perfect box shape(as the name implies), all that lies below is the firewall, which slopes back just as it does on the other side of the frame rail where the exhaust passes under, so there's a long drop if the steel were to give way. As is it's probably fine if the steel and welds haven't sheared, but I definitely wouldn't jack under there again.

I'm not the biggest fan of jacking the pinch welds either, but still better.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,769 Posts
From the side, I jack using the thicker metal where the transmission mount bolts in; it's never bent or caused a problem.

I did have one Jackass put a jackstand on my fuel lines, tho. :facepalm:

If nothings in the trunk, it will lift front and back on that side, so I place both jackstands, and move to the other side.

It's a problem on the tbird, 'cause my freaking jack won't fit under the car. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,916 Posts
I have a low profile, high lift jack from Harbor Freight. I jack it from the middle of the frame rail, it jacks the entire side up, I place jack stands on the front and rear of the rail, and move to the other side. If I don't need one end up, I don't put a stand under that end.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,769 Posts
... If I don't need one end up, I don't put a stand under that end.
Be careful doing that; you can put a bunch of effort on a bolt, and have the whole car move suddenly, lifting the odd wheel.

If one of the stands shifts, it could be bad. :)

It makes me a lot happier to do all 4, then it won't move.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
482 Posts
I think I was "cleared" by the forum to jack up the rear from the differential mounting bracket and never jack on the differential.

With my Vogtland springs I have to drive the front up ramps to get the jack under it. The ramps often slide out to the front which makes using them as the only lift difficult. I go up the ramps just enough to get the jack under the car and then set brake, block rear wheels and get to jacking. It's not the safest process but jacking from the side really loads up the unibody frame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,916 Posts
Be careful doing that; you can put a bunch of effort on a bolt, and have the whole car move suddenly, lifting the odd wheel.

If one of the stands shifts, it could be bad. :)

It makes me a lot happier to do all 4, then it won't move.
It all depends on what I'm doing. If I just need the front end up in the air, I apply the parking brake, chock the wheels, and jack up the front end, put the stands under the front and leave enough on the jack to act as a safety. Rear end stays all the way down. Same if I have to just jack up the rear.

90% of the time though, I'm moving around enough under there where it's more convenient to have all four corners in the air.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,916 Posts
I think I was "cleared" by the forum to jack up the rear from the differential mounting bracket and never jack on the differential.

With my Vogtland springs I have to drive the front up ramps to get the jack under it. The ramps often slide out to the front which makes using them as the only lift difficult. I go up the ramps just enough to get the jack under the car and then set brake, block rear wheels and get to jacking. It's not the safest process but jacking from the side really loads up the unibody frame.
One of these is well worth the $100.
3 ton Low Profile Steel Heavy Duty Floor Jack with Rapid Pump®

It's lower than 3" when fully recessed, and gets the car nearly a foot in the air. Best investment I've made as far as jacks go. I'm on 1.5" Eibachs and I have plenty of room to roll this under the car.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,171 Posts
It all depends on what I'm doing. If I just need the front end up in the air, I apply the parking brake, chock the wheels, and jack up the front end, put the stands under the front and leave enough on the jack to act as a safety. Rear end stays all the way down. Same if I have to just jack up the rear.

90% of the time though, I'm moving around enough under there where it's more convenient to have all four corners in the air.
That's not what you described in the previous post, jacking the whole side up from the frame rail and sometimes using a single stand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,916 Posts
That's not what you described in the previous post, jacking the whole side up from the frame rail and sometimes using a single stand.
Yeah, I realized I didn't word it well.

What I was trying to say is, if I only need one end up, I support that side (with two stands) and let the other side down. Usually front or rear, but on occasion left or right. So I'll put the jack in the middle of the car, raise that side, support what needs supported, then repeat the process on the other side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,472 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,171 Posts
Yeah, I realized I didn't word it well.

What I was trying to say is, if I only need one end up, I support that side (with two stands) and let the other side down. Usually front or rear, but on occasion left or right. So I'll put the jack in the middle of the car, raise that side, support what needs supported, then repeat the process on the other side.
So in other words, both? lol

There's no nautical like standards for cars but to me sides = doors/fenders/quarters, while ends containing bumpers and lights = front or rear ends. It's confusing as hell calling the front or rear end a front side or back side. I never jack the car from the sides to the point both wheels are off the ground, the steeper angle for the jackstands just seems too scary precarious compared to going from the ends
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,769 Posts
I agree, Matt; but sometimes I need my stands all the way up, and that really only works from the sides, in a multi-step process.

Dangerous, yes.

I use 6 stands when I do that, so nothing can move far.

That's the only way the transmission comes out...
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,171 Posts
I have no problem getting max height out of my stands going end to end. I start on the front under the K member, set the stands a few notches up under the strut rod mounts and set the car down on them. Then I move to the back, jack under the diff mount, lift the rear to roughly level to that of the front and set the stands under the front IRS brackets. Then move back to the front and raise it up and max the stands there, and again to the rear. There's never been a scenario where I've found raising the sides desirable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,890 Posts
I jack up just the side for rotating tires. But you don't have to get it far off the ground for that.

Al
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top