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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Uh-Oh, I Think I Ordered The Wrong Sway Bar Bushings!

I got tired of my sway bar bushings squeaking around everytime it got cold here so i got on autozone.com and purchased the "Greaseable" sway bar bushings from energy suspension. Here is a photo below, Just making sure i bought the right part for my 1997 front sway bar.
Part # 9.5169R (1 1/16" sway bar bushing)

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Have photos of the installation process? I guess it also can be installed in certain 1989-1997 models?
No not yet, Its only like 3° here lol..I'll put up with the squeaking until it gets warm. I think the only thing needed to do is to remove the sway bar end links from the sway bar and unbolt the bushings and slide them off, then reverse with new bushings.
 

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No not yet, Its only like 3° here lol..I'll put up with the squeaking until it gets warm. I think the only thing needed to do is to remove the sway bar end links from the sway bar and unbolt the bushings and slide them off, then reverse with new bushings.
Actually - if you don't mind cutting the old ones, you don't even have to drop the end links.

The new ones are split (the housing will keep them sealed!), and so all you need is to remove the old housing, slide the old rubber down to where you can get to it, cut it, pull it off, put the new poly on, slide it back up, put the new cover on, and lubricate it.

If the four bolts (2 on each side) aren't seized, then it'll be done about as fast as I typed that ...

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Actually - if you don't mind cutting the old ones, you don't even have to drop the end links.

The new ones are split (the housing will keep them sealed!), and so all you need is to remove the old housing, slide the old rubber down to where you can get to it, cut it, pull it off, put the new poly on, slide it back up, put the new cover on, and lubricate it.

If the four bolts (2 on each side) aren't seized, then it'll be done about as fast as I typed that ...

RwP
Holy Crap! Look at that!!!:thumbsup: Thanks alot ralph. :bowdown: I'll do them this weekend. Would the same grease that i use on ball joints and stuff work?

Those are the correct ones tho right?
 

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Before I assumed they were the correct ones, I'd mike the current sway bar (using a caliper tool - I own this one, which does what I need: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-utility-caliper-7914.html ).

For grease - I use the same I use on my ball joints, yes. Then again, I use a moly/lithium blend. YMMV.

If you have some PTFE spray (I use some Teflon spray I bought years ago at Black & Decker, but I've seen it at Home Depot or Lowes recently), I'd hose the swaybar down with that before I put the new ones on, but after I removed the old ones.

It's what I did, anyway.

My 1991 XR7 took the 1 1/16th IIRC also.

RwP
 

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Probably. I just said what I'd do :diablo:

RwP
 

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Worth mentioning; these will only work on the front sway bar. The rear brackets are different.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, I need help! i went ahead and cut the old bushings off and put on the new ST 1 1/16" bushings and they fit around the bar well but they seem to be not as wide as my old ones.. is this normal? When my old ones were on the bar they were pushed all the way up to the lip on the sway bar and bolted down correctly, but with the new ones when the holes are lines up to be bolted down they were about a 1/4 inch away from the lip on the sway bar. Now when i push my front end up and down they still squeek and i can clearly see the bar rotating....that dont seem normal. Did i order the wrong bushings?!!!!!!
 

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To reassure you -

1) Without the brackets, it's normal for the sway bar to drop some. If you put the brackets that came with them on them, AND you tightened the bolts down properly, they'll fill back in, no problem.

2) They're poly, they squeak. That's why I spray it with Teflon spray (a generic PTFE works, mine just has the DuPont brand in it) before I put them on. Amd why they're lubeable.

3) Think about it - if the bar DIDN'T rotate, how would the lower control arm go up and down? They're SUPPOSED to rotate in the bushings - the anti-sway function comes when one side drops and the other doesn't. Or one goes up and the other doesn't. By rotating in the bushing, it keeps the car ride softer on ridges and other situations where both sides go up and down at the same time.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #17
To reassure you -

1) Without the brackets, it's normal for the sway bar to drop some. If you put the brackets that came with them on them, AND you tightened the bolts down properly, they'll fill back in, no problem.

2) They're poly, they squeak. That's why I spray it with Teflon spray (a generic PTFE works, mine just has the DuPont brand in it) before I put them on. Amd why they're lubeable.

3) Think about it - if the bar DIDN'T rotate, how would the lower control arm go up and down? They're SUPPOSED to rotate in the bushings - the anti-sway function comes when one side drops and the other doesn't. Or one goes up and the other doesn't. By rotating in the bushing, it keeps the car ride softer on ridges and other situations where both sides go up and down at the same time.

RwP
Yep I used everything that came in the kit beside the washers only becuz there was no washers originally, but should the new oily bushings be smaller width wise then the stock ones? When I pushed the bushings all the way to the lip on the sway bar the holes wouldnt line up so they are about 1/4 to 1/2" away from the lip.
 

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Post some pics if you can. The collar on the sway bar on the inside of the bushing is adjustable if that's what you mean by the lip. I can take a picture of mine tomorrow and show you.
 

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Yep I used everything that came in the kit beside the washers only becuz there was no washers originally, but should the new oily bushings be smaller width wise then the stock ones? When I pushed the bushings all the way to the lip on the sway bar the holes wouldnt line up so they are about 1/4 to 1/2" away from the lip.
You could just compare the old ones to the new ones -but yes, mine were narrower than the old ones.

Suggestion: The bracket bolts to the frame, it's pretty much stuck. Loosen it up a bit, slide the new bushing to center the bracket, and then tighten it down.

Why are they different widths? Well, rubber is softer than the poly they use, so it takes more width to support the same amount of torsional load.

While it's apart, I'd put the washers in there - remember, the new brackets have oval holes (so they can be slid back and forth to fit better), the old ones had round holes. You should use the washers to make sure the bolt has a full loading zone, instead of being only partially loaded (the washer's size will make sure it's got enough of a loading zone against the bracket.)

RwP
 

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Post some pics if you can. The collar on the sway bar on the inside of the bushing is adjustable if that's what you mean by the lip. I can take a picture of mine tomorrow and show you.
He has a stock sway bar, not an ADDCO with adjustable collars.

He probably needs to just get Poly bushings that are made for the stock bar and mounts, the ES mounts aren't going to fit properly with a stock bar.

The only other solution is to fabricate some kind of spacers, probably not worth the effort.
 
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