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Discussion Starter #1
Im curious to see how my fellow members went about their jmods. whether it was cause the trans went down the bowl or if it was wanted or done within your leisure and along with that im interested in how much it cost however which way you went about upgrading the trans. I think it would be cool too see what parts people went with and or different shift kits or any way it was done to suit your needs. lets hear it folks. newbCoug outty. upon the completion of mine i will post accordingly. if theres another thread like this let me know how to delete it.
 

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Did mine at 100% leisure on my 96, was able to get a fully assembled valve body with all the drilled plates and updated accumulators for $150 from a member here a few yrs ago. The only other cost involved was the few quarts of trans fluid to top 'er off. Oh and my time which is priceless. ;)
 

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I bought my kit from Dirty Dog. It included a video, drill bits, instructions on which holes to enlarge in the plate, an updated accumulator, some new gaskets (above and below the valve body), and a deeper ATF pan. While I was there, it also made sense to replace the EPC Solenoid, pressure regulator valve, and the ATF filter. All in, I think my cost was <$170 all in.

I did the work in my driveway in a few hours while the car was on jackstands and I had never done anything similar. The job is not much more involved than an ATF filter swap -- I don't recall even having to mess with the exhaust.

Besides replacing the EPC solenoid and PRV, my only recommendation though is this: the instructions will give multiple hole diameters based on your engine's HP level. Do NOT go nuts here and just drill it out to the max settings.

Despite having a 140HP V6 at the time, I drilled out our valve body plate to the maximum settings. Why? Because racecar.
While having a transmission that would "chirp" the tires every from shift was amusing on the track, it was honestly super annoying to drive the car with this level of JMOD the few times I drove it to/from work to test the car (it was still street legal). I can't imagine this would be pleasant at all as a DD.

As far as longetivity is concerned, despite Alan @ DD's misgivings ("its gonna blow"), the transmission lasted 15+ hours on the track at Sears Point without any drama (given the twistiness of Sears Point though we kept OD off to prevent WOT 3-4 shifts). It also helped that we had an enormous ATF cooler (our A/C condenser). I ended up pulling the trans before race 2 to swap in an M5R2 and sold off the 4r70w for $200 on CL even with the disclosed mod.

-g
PS. Personally, I'd consider JMODDing your stock trans w/o replacing the EPC and PRV unless you are having problems getting the trans from neutral into 1st and running it until it blows. Then, swap in a beefier one.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the input. yeah im getting mine done real soon in the future. im more than positive im going to over pay considering im in a new town and dont know not a nair notha soul. i have my car at the shop now. i want to hear how other people went about it in order to get perspective on whether a rebuilt tranny would be better than a rewiring a harness , mlps not to mention the EEC tune. My car has approx 136k miles on it and has torque shuddered the whole time ive had it. im pretty sure it was never replaced at the readjusted suggested intervals. 30k as opposed to 60k. with merc v. i brought the trans in because it was slipping bad and at a stoplight i would release the brake and accelerate however it was like the car forgot it was in drive and would rev high before the clutch caught.
 

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I had RobertP do my J-mod a few years back for $120.
 

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That's just labor. IIRC, parts & labor were around $200.

I would not have just any shop do it, unless they know specifically about the 4RW70 trans and J-mod. Otherwise, you would be telling them what to do. Possible to end up with an incomplete mod.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah I'm starting to think I'm an idiot. I just got the bill and they want 2400 for a damn rebuild. Idk what to do now except I'm going to see how I can fight it. Ima do every single thing to make sure I know they actually put proper parts in there.
 

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Yeah I'm starting to think I'm an idiot. I just got the bill and they want 2400 for a damn rebuild. Idk what to do now except I'm going to see how I can fight it. Ima do every single thing to make sure I know they actually put proper parts in there.

While I'm not an automatic transmission expert by any means, i believe your quoted price is high but within the realm of possibility.
1) Built transmissions can cost from $1500-2500 depending on the amount of retrofitting involved.
2) I could see a transmission R&R running $500-1000.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I did replace a transmission on a 99 Chrysler 300m.The cost for that was 2000 but it included a shift cable for the gear lever. Idk the proper term. An torque converter. So idk maybe. I did have them show me the trans and I saw the clutch plates have barely any friction material on them. And the torque converter was ballooned to much and was no good anymore.
 

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[/QUOTE ]
2) I could see a transmission R&R running $500-1000.
I don't know what R &R is. Rebuild and repair?[/QUOTE]


R&R = removal and replacement. aka installation work.
Depending on where you are in the country, labor might be significantly more/less.
 

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Is your transmission shot? Does it shift to all four gears ok? If it shifts ok, you do NOT need a full rebuild.

The Jmod is incredibly easy. You can buy a pre-drilled unit (unless your motor is heavily modified, the "300hp" settings are fine) and all you need to do is drain the trans pan, drop the pan, replace the plate, accumulators, AND the filter, refill the transmission, and you're done.

It can be messy if your pan doesn't have a drain plug, but it's very easy and doable in a driveway (if you have enough cardboard/big drain pan).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
My trans would take awhile to clutch into reverse and then when switching to drive it would take awhile for that to engage aswell. Example being(idk if I posted it here already) when at a stoplight in the very bumpy and multiple hills in Prescott. I'd stop on red and sit there with my brakes applied,and then when it turns green I try to accelerate and I would roll backwards until it decides to engage the clutch. I would rev it high one time and then it would usually catch on the second rev. But before it clutched I would roll backwards scaring drivers behind me. And after a while it just felt like I had no torque when I know the car should have accelerated faster but instead it just revved more.
 

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My trans would take awhile to clutch into reverse and then when switching to drive it would take awhile for that to engage aswell. Example being(idk if I posted it here already) when at a stoplight in the very bumpy and multiple hills in Prescott. I'd stop on red and sit there with my brakes applied,and then when it turns green I try to accelerate and I would roll backwards until it decides to engage the clutch. I would rev it high one time and then it would usually catch on the second rev. But before it clutched I would roll backwards scaring drivers behind me. And after a while it just felt like I had no torque when I know the car should have accelerated faster but instead it just revved more.
Then you may need a rebuild after all. What I'd do is go ahead and get it rebuilt, then jmod it later after you know it works properly. Or, you could just get a 2002+ 4R70W with all the better internals, swap over your electronics, jmod it, and then be better off.
 

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My trans would take awhile to clutch into reverse and then when switching to drive it would take awhile for that to engage aswell. Example being(idk if I posted it here already) when at a stoplight in the very bumpy and multiple hills in Prescott. I'd stop on red and sit there with my brakes applied,and then when it turns green I try to accelerate and I would roll backwards until it decides to engage the clutch. I would rev it high one time and then it would usually catch on the second rev. But before it clutched I would roll backwards scaring drivers behind me. And after a while it just felt like I had no torque when I know the car should have accelerated faster but instead it just revved more.
I was told that hesitation before actually accelerating the first time you shift from Park to Drive was a symptom of a worn pressure regulator valve.
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=137266
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=136586

The PRV's in the valve body and is a cheap part to replace while doing a JMOD and not a symptom of the need for a full rebuild.
-g
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My trans would take awhile to clutch into reverse and then when switching to drive it would take awhile for that to engage aswell. Example being(idk if I posted it here already) when at a stoplight in the very bumpy and multiple hills in Prescott. I'd stop on red and sit there with my brakes applied,and then when it turns green I try to accelerate and I would roll backwards until it decides to engage the clutch. I would rev it high one time and then it would usually catch on the second rev. But before it clutched I would roll backwards scaring drivers behind me. And after a while it just felt like I had no torque when I know the car should have accelerated faster but instead it just revved more.
Then you may need a rebuild after all. What I'd do is go ahead and get it rebuilt, then jmod it later after you know it works properly. Or, you could just get a 2002+ 4R70W with all the better internals, swap over your electronics, jmod it, and then be better off.
I said to the guy could I just buy a 03 mustang trans and switch over the manual lever position sensor along with the EEC correct? I asked him that and he said it would cost more. In my head I was like that doesn't make sense but me not being an expert I trusted the guy. I asked them if they thought I was making stuff up and trying to act like a know it all and they responded saying that it wasn't that but if they just don't trust anything that people pull off the internet. I replied saying well this is a forum with people whom have worked on these cars and have been talking about them since they came out. They retorted with " if I haven't done it or heard of it being done and it's been through trial and error then we won't do it because of liability." I just gave up after that assuming I wasn't going to change their mind. I printed out the jmod article mentioned above and I'm pretty sure they didn't even look at it. I'm still waiting for more money of mine to come in, so I can get my car back along with the invoice containing the parts replaced/rebuilt. It took long enough dammit. They mentioned their computer programs were down because they were upgrading. I was frustrated so I just stopped until I can pay it all off. In my mind an itemized list of what's replaced or repaired on the transmission shouldn't be that hard to write up. Well they still have to deal with me more because when I get there I'm not paying anything until I have that list including part numbers and what was done to each part.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well I finally ponied up the cash to recieve scarlet back. This is the invoice for the job. I understand that I didn't recieve a mechanical diode because the drum was too small is what I was told. All in all idk if I noticed how much better it was or if I noticed how bad our stock transmission is lmao. Anyway I believe the brand of these parts were either JEGS or TCI I can't remember supposively the part numbers are exclusive for the shop so I just looked at what their installation instructions were.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
His exact words were I would've liked to put that in however the drum was too small. In my head I was like well update the drum? Considering the money I paid... smh. Is the image showing up for my post up above.?
 
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