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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok. So first off, I just found a leak, that seems to be a pretty decent leak. Seems to be a coolant, or slight coolant/oil mix leak. The problem is, I'm not sure where it's really coming from and what to do about it.

The leak is in this general area.
<a href="http://s1031.photobucket.com/user/KoAlWa/media/IMG_02521_zps81595ffd.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1031.photobucket.com/albums/y380/KoAlWa/IMG_02521_zps81595ffd.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_02521_zps81595ffd.jpg"/></a>

And it's running off of this pan, but I'm not sure if that's where the leak mainly is, or if it's just running off of.
<a href="http://s1031.photobucket.com/user/KoAlWa/media/IMG_02531_zpse6592b46.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1031.photobucket.com/albums/y380/KoAlWa/IMG_02531_zpse6592b46.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_02531_zpse6592b46.jpg"/></a>

So if anybody knows what it could be would be greatly appreciated. And sorry for the horrible pics. I have to use my iPod until I can find my camera charger.

Edit: forgot about my second problem.
My car recently doesn't like to go over 3 grand. Say if I'm on the highway and want to pass somebody, if I go over 3 grand my car will start chugging and won't go pass 3 grand.
 

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Probably the oil filter adapter gasket.
 

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90% oil filter adapter gasket, replace, clean, recheck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you don't post what preventive maintenance you have already done to your car, much time will be wasted.
In general like oil changes and whatnot?
Let's see. I regularly keep up on oil and filter changes, transmission fluid 1/2 change, spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery, air filter, MAF sensor, fuel filter, pcv valve, some replaced vacuum lines. That's about what I've done in the last couple months.

But, I'll clean and check the spot to see if I can get a more in-depth description of where it's at.
 

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I second or third them ..... "Oil Filter Adapter" gasket leak is the likely culprit. The adapter serves two functions .... oil filter mount and lower radiator hose inlet from the radiator.

The gasket is thick with metal in the three bolt holes to limit compression and it has two round holes that supply oil to the filter and then return filtered oil to the block passages .... and it has one larger odd ball shaped hole for the coolant to come from radiator. The passages in this gasket are sealed with rings of rubber made in the gasket and they will start leaking in time as they become compressed.

When you replace the gasket, no additional sealant is needed, just clean the surfaces well.

Here's a link where there are some good pics.

http://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/oilcooler/index.html
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That link is really helpful. Should I just replace the gasket, or the adapter too? And when I look at gaskets, there's a blue one (for adapter with oil cooler) and a red one (for adapter without oil cooler). I don't have an aftermarket oil cooler, so should I get the red one?
 

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That link is really helpful. Should I just replace the gasket, or the adapter too? And when I look at gaskets, there's a blue one (for adapter with oil cooler) and a red one (for adapter without oil cooler). I don't have an aftermarket oil cooler, so should I get the red one?
Order the one for a 4.6 without the oil cooler and change the gasket. Changing the housing would be difficult to find a new one and pointless in 99% of the cases. The only reason you want to change that would be if the housing is damaged in some way which is unlikely an example would be when people change the oil sending unit and over tighten the new one cracking the adapter housing.
 

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Bump. Anybody have any input on why my car doesn't like going over 3 grand?
It's a cheapskate?

I'd be working on checking the cats and seeing if they're plugged. That'll cause a host of driveability problems, starting with the inability to rev under load.

But then, you've not mentioned ANY maintenance.

Even before checking the cats, I'd be looking at plug wires and plugs, fuel filter, and since it's a 1994, seriously considering replacing the intake with a 96-97 intake (all the way to and including the intake manifold(s)).

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It's a cheapskate?

I'd be working on checking the cats and seeing if they're plugged. That'll cause a host of driveability problems, starting with the inability to rev under load.

But then, you've not mentioned ANY maintenance.

Even before checking the cats, I'd be looking at plug wires and plugs, fuel filter, and since it's a 1994, seriously considering replacing the intake with a 96-97 intake (all the way to and including the intake manifold(s)).

RwP
Post #5 man.
And I've heard that if the cats are bad, you'll smell eggs. And thus far, I haven't smelled anything. But there is a shop that'll check em out, so I'll stop by there.
 

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And I've heard that if the cats are bad, you'll smell eggs. And thus far, I haven't smelled anything.
Do a Google search on bad converter symptoms. Usually if it gets to the rotten egg stage, it's too far gone.

Joe
 

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And I've heard that if the cats are bad, you'll smell eggs. And thus far, I haven't smelled anything. But there is a shop that'll check em out, so I'll stop by there.
And you can tell you're following too close to the truck ahead when the rear bumper is in your windshield.

Cats will partially plug WAY before they give off the rotten egg smell.

RwP
 

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In general like oil changes and whatnot?
Let's see. I regularly keep up on oil and filter changes, transmission fluid 1/2 change, spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery, air filter, MAF sensor, fuel filter, pcv valve, some replaced vacuum lines. That's about what I've done in the last couple months.

But, I'll clean and check the spot to see if I can get a more in-depth description of where it's at.
Well an oil change and transmission fluid change are not preventative maintenance items, they are required maintenance items in my eyes. But the rest, yes. When you say "maf sensor", what have you done exactly? Replaced it? if so, with what? When did it start hesitating over 3000 RPMs? out of the blue? Giving us complete info like a timeline sure does help.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well an oil change and transmission fluid change are not preventative maintenance items, they are required maintenance items in my eyes. But the rest, yes. When you say "maf sensor", what have you done exactly? Replaced it? if so, with what? When did it start hesitating over 3000 RPMs? out of the blue? Giving us complete info like a timeline sure does help.
Well with the MAF Sensor, I just replaced it without another OEM one. It started about a month ago. Yes, it was pretty out of the blue. I just remember driving one day and went to pass somebody or something and when I reached 3000, it would start "chugging". That's not the best word to describe it, but I can't think of anything else right now. I actually replaced the MAF sensor a while ago, maybe almost a year. A shop had told me I needed a new one.
A timeline for everything I've done?
 

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as long as OEM means you went to ford and got a good one then that's probably fine, though after a year it could probably do with a spray or two of MAF cleaner.

NONE of the part store brands including the "new" ones are any good really. for a part like that you should always go with ford, same with IACs, O2's and stuff that regulate the engine performance.

otherwise if the plugs and wires are fresh and in good shape, theirs no random missfires or hesitation anywhere else, and it just wont rev over 3k. then i would bet the cats are toast. especially being a 94 which will most certainly be burning quite a bit of oil from the valve seals. nothing fouls an exhaust system like burned oil soot.

any codes at all? bear in mind that the light might be burned out, or removed from a past shade tree mechanic. so you might still find something with a scanner.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah, the MAF sensor should've been an OEM piece. It was the same as the old one, just new.

Dumb question, but would I need to work or do anything to the valve seals to keep new cats from just going bad again?

I do have lean bank codes. I forgot to write them down, but they should be 0174 and 0171 I think. I know it says both banks are running lean.
 

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that could mean either a vacuum leak or exhaust leak, or a lack of fuel. At idle you should have around ~18" of vacuum. If you have that then an air:fuel imbalance could be caused by a faulty regulator or weak fuel pump.
 
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