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Discussion Starter #1
My car overheated very badly, so I changed the T-Stat. When that didn't work, I changed the water pump. THAT didn't work, so I removed the radiator and flushed it out. The coolant that came out during the flush seemed like rusty colored and had some grit to it. After flushing, and replacing the radiator, it still overheats. What am I missing?????

Also, I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the radiator like thing in FRONT of the radiator is??

And last but surely not least, how can I get ALL the coolant out of the block while it is still in the car.

Thanks for your help!
 

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When you've got the hoses disconnected from the radiator, you could take the t-stat out and then directly flush the engine with a hose... but I'm a bit concerned with how badly this overheated. Have you tested the fan? turn the car on and turn the A/C on to max, the fan should come right on no matter what. Also (I hope I'm wrong) if it overheats too badly, you can crack the aluminum heads... so hopefully theyre still good.
Tom
 

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Pappy:

The thing in front of your radiator that looks like a radiator is your A/C condensor.

To get the coolant out of the block, you'll need to remove your drain plugs that are in the block for that very purpose. As for the exact location and ease of removing them I'm not sure.

You said you removed the radiator and flushed it out. It could be that your radiator is still the problem. It may be so loaded up inside with corrosion that coolant still won't pass freely through.

Does your fan kick on?

-hooD :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am fairly certain that the fan still works because when I popped the hood the last time I started it and was checking for leaks I thought it was running. I am not too worried about the heads, as I have new NPI heads with PI cams sitting here waiting to change. I plan on pulling the motor, doing a rebuild with some Cobra Pistons and the new heads and intake. My main concern right now is that I have no idea what is causing my current condition and I don't want to go through pulling out the motor, rebuildng and re-installing without the problem being fixed. Last night I pulled the radiator back out and started tearing down the top of the motor. Is there any way to test the fan with it being out of the car?
 

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Make sure water is pumping. When starting cold let it run for a while with your hand on the top water hose. When the Tstat opens the hose should get hot instantly.

Also, remove the radiator fan assembly. Put a piece of cardboard between the front of the radiator and the rear of the AC condenser. Then spray a stream of water across all the fins from the back side and get any crap off the front of the radiator.
If the condenser is clogged up too, Then remove the radiator and spray the condenser and the radiator both.

rm
 

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I had to replace my radiator with a new piece to get my temp back down to normal in my '97 N/A 4.6 'Bird. Nothing else worked.
 

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Hopefully, the heater core isn't clogged. Have you observed any leaks or low coolant levels? Here's some brief diagnostics info for you. It's from the 1994 Service Manual, but I'm sure that the fundamentals apply the same on your 1995 car.



The radiator on my car had some nearly undectable leaks, which stumped me as to why the engine ran hot. It wasn't until a hot day, in stopped traffic, that a leak became visible on the plastic tank that connects to the lower radiator hose. Apparently, leaks will alter the cooling system pressure, resulting in higher operating temperatures.
 
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