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Discussion Starter #1
how hard is it to replace the tie rod ends x 4 and the lower control arms? is there anything else that should be done while i am in there? or any suggestions on how to do all that? i have already replaced the UCA, stabilizer bar links, and the struts.

the shop i looked at is wanting to charge $566 in labor alone to replace 3 tie rod ends, strut mountsx2, L LCA, and 2 wheel alignment.

any help would as always be greatly appreciated..

seth
 

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The Band, not the Disease!
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There's only 2 tie rod ends =) well technically speaking there are 2 tie rods, then you have the tie rod ends which are seperate. The LCA's are pretty easy to do. I think the UCA passenger side took the longest.. I just did UCA's and LCA's. Get yourself a pitman arm puller, and a pickle fork for the LCA balljoint... where it attaches to the spindle. This is how you do it: mark your alignment point on the LCA, where it attaches to the unibody. loosen the nut that attaches your balljoint to your spindle, loosen the strud rod bushings (you will have to put a wrench on the strut rod, then use your other hand to loosen the nut... i fyou try to loosen the nut without the wrench, the rod will move and you wont be able to get it loose) you should replace your strut rod bushings too. Once you get everything loose that corresponds to the LCA, take the nut off of the balljoint (where it connects to the spindle) and then use a pitman arm puller to get it to pop off. Now remove the spindle to UCA bolt. Take off all the other bolts and you can work the LCA out. It's not hard... if you did your UCA's, this shouldnt be aproblem for you. You can rent an arm puller at any autozone or parts store. I'm sorry if this is confusing but I'm really not a good "teacher" heheh I just went in there, looked at it, and used a little common sense. Dont spend hundreds of dollars to have someone do this. It's not worth it!!! Good luck bud, if you have any questions, ask!!
 

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...yeah...do it yourself. Be sure to have a breaker bar handy! That strut rod bolt is on tight! You will also need a Torque wrench capable of 150 Ft-lbs.
Just take your time and do a little research here so when you do it you'll know exactly what to do..
Any questions just ask..i've been through it.
Erik

....if you need the torque specs let me know.
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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when putting on the nuts for the strut rob bolt can i put some blue thread lock on there?
 

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Casper said:
when putting on the nuts for the strut rob bolt can i put some blue thread lock on there?
I would say yes for the nut at the control arm side. The adjustments are made on the K-member side. Using thread lock on all suspension nuts is a good idea IMO. EXCEPT nuts/bolts where the adjustments are made....i.e. camber nut/bolt and strut rod nut @ the K-member.
Erik
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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thanks for the clearing up and i appreciate it.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
only 2 tie rod ends? i was told i needed "L/R inner and R outer tie rod end" also are there any pictures of these things? i don't know that i know all the names.. like strut rod bolt/bushing and what the tie rod ends look like. i know it is pathetic, but i figure i don't have to know the name to replace it. thanks again for the responses.

seth
 

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O.K....i'll try to help clear things up. Our cars have 2 tie-rods. A left and a right. Each tie-rod has a endlink on both ends. You end up with 4 tie-rod ends total. 2 inner links and 2 outer links.
If you jack up your car and remove the wheel you'll see your lower control arm is held on with 4 nuts/bolts. Starting from outer most to the inside they go as follows....Lower ball joint nut, Strut rod nut (right @ the strut rod nut is where the strut rod bushing is) you'll see it....replace it., lower shock mount bolt/nut, and the camber nut/bolt.

Erik

....i'm sure you could find pics of tie-rod ends at www.rockauto.com
 
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