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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i recently changed the water pump on my 91 SC. i had to remove the crank pulley in order to get the timing pointer shield off. well i get it all assembled and start it up to check for leaks, and i notice the crank pulley is wobbleing like crazy. i know i tightened everything down to spec. is there a allianment pin on the balancer or something. it just seems oddly strange that it would do that. any suggestions.?:confused: !
 

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the pulley is supposed to slide onto a keyway off the crankshaft, that is for the allignment...maybe its off? did you use a pulley installer tool? or just used a piece of wood and a hammer like me? >=)
 

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I used the.... turn off car in drive with parking brake on and tighten, then torque.... "technique"
 

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Sounds like you may have missed the key and just crammed the pulley on over it, thus rendering the key useless, and the pulley crooked. I'd pull it back off and check it. Introducing vibes through the crank is not something you want to make a habit of.

Jay
 

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It's also possible that the rubber in the dampener has deteriorated and the dampener has "turned" on the shaft. I know I've read somewhere that the dampener on those engines fails after a while and there was some mention of rubber failing and some component of the balancer turning to where it wasn't supposed to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well if there is a key way then i can presume that i missed it and thats all the problem is. anyone know the torque lbs on the bolts.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
FordMan77 said:
Sounds like you may have missed the key and just crammed the pulley on over it, thus rendering the key useless, and the pulley crooked. I'd pull it back off and check it. Introducing vibes through the crank is not something you want to make a habit of.

Jay

i just started it and let it run for 10 seconds untill i noticed it. ill pull it off and try again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks!
 

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the crank pulley only installs one way. the bolt holes are offset and you must match them up correctly. The HB and pulley are a balanced set and must be put back together correctly. If you don't it wont be long before the balancer breaks of the crank or worse yet the crank snout breaks. IF you removed the balancer it does have a keyway for alignment,and DO NOT FORCE IT ON. use a balancer installation tool, the alumunum snout is extremely prone to breaking.
 

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First hings first. I think there is some confusion here. Did you:

A - remove the harmonic balancer and pulley (one giant bolt in the center, takes a 22mm socket)

or

B - remove JUST the crank pulley. (4 3/8" bolts)

I'm understanding that you just removed the crank pulley, in which case you probably did not get it on correctly. One of those four bolt holes is offset just every so slightly. If you didnt put it on the right way, it probably didnt tighten down all the way because the pulley jammed as you tightened it with crookedly alligned holes. I dont think Ford did this because of a balance issue, but instead did it as to not accidentaly use NA balancer (which has perfectly squarely alligned bolts) on the SC or vise versa. I believe the pulleys are all zero balanced so they carry no balancing characteristics.

-Thomas
 

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I dont think Ford did this because of a balance issue, but instead did it as to not accidentaly use NA balancer (which has perfectly squarely alligned bolts) on the SC or vise versa. I believe the pulleys are all zero balanced so they carry no balancing characteristics
the balancer and pulley assy are balanced together, that is why when you buy a new balancer you get a new pulley already installed from Ford. Even upgrading to the BHJ you must have the stock crank pulley zero balanced, or buy a zero balance aluminum pulley. Do a search on sccoa.com there are many threads on it
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i know i got the pulley allaigned correctly because i had to mess with it for nearly a hour to get it on this morning(it fairly heavy to hold above you head with one hand under the car. i was only able to get 30ft lbs of torque on the bolts. im thinking that might be the reason why possibly.

i ONLY removed the pulley, not the balancer!,

i will try the shut the car off in drive technique and the torque the bolts......ill let you all know.
 

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if your torqued the pulley bolts to 30 ftlbs your fine, the crank bolt takes 100+ft.lbs of torque. First make sure the crank bolt is still there they are known to snap the heads off and leave the rest in the crank snout. If thats OK then you should replace your balancer immediately if its still all over the place. If you dont some major damage can occur
 

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number one the balancer is zero balanced on early sc's they interchange with each outer the balancer wheigh is to zero balance not to balance to balancer.

the balancer is the thing thats balanced to the engine all pullys are zero balance on early sc's Ive only seen one pully that was none zero balanced I check em all when I convert to 10 % and the balancer having a bad rubber in it will not make pully wobble its bolted to the inner alluminum hub not to the outside cast iron ring . if it wobbles you have it tightned crooked you must tighten it like lug nuts skip every other bolt untill all are tight then check torque. this lets it seat straight on its a bolt sequence if you just go in a straight circle it will sit crroked on balancer.

also if its done right and still wobbles you may have a loose crank bolt or balancer is worn out and wobbling I know about these pullys i make 10 % crank pullys
 

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mannysc said:
number one the balancer is zero balanced on early sc's they interchange with each outer the balancer wheigh is to zero balance not to balance to balancer.

the balancer is the thing thats balanced to the engine all pullys are zero balance on early sc's Ive only seen one pully that was none zero balanced I check em all when I convert to 10 % and the balancer having a bad rubber in it will not make pully wobble its bolted to the inner alluminum hub not to the outside cast iron ring . if it wobbles you have it tightned crooked you must tighten it like lug nuts skip every other bolt untill all are tight then check torque. this lets it seat straight on its a bolt sequence if you just go in a straight circle it will sit crroked on balancer.

also if its done right and still wobbles you may have a loose crank bolt or balancer is worn out and wobbling I know about these pullys i make 10 % crank pullys


Good info !!!
 

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Thomas said:
I'm understanding that you just removed the crank pulley, in which case you probably did not get it on correctly. One of those four bolt holes is offset just every so slightly. If you didnt put it on the right way, it probably didnt tighten down all the way because the pulley jammed as you tightened it with crookedly alligned holes.
-Thomas
I agree....the pulley is not lined up correctly. It is possible to get all 4 bolts started with the pulley just hanging there loose, but it will not line up correctly when tightened. Take it off and start over, it only goes on one way.

David
 

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mannysc said:
number one the balancer is zero balanced on early sc's they interchange with each outer the balancer wheigh is to zero balance not to balance to balancer.

the balancer is the thing thats balanced to the engine all pullys are zero balance on early sc's Ive only seen one pully that was none zero balanced I check em all when I convert to 10 % and the balancer having a bad rubber in it will not make pully wobble its bolted to the inner alluminum hub not to the outside cast iron ring . if it wobbles you have it tightned crooked you must tighten it like lug nuts skip every other bolt untill all are tight then check torque. this lets it seat straight on its a bolt sequence if you just go in a straight circle it will sit crroked on balancer.

also if its done right and still wobbles you may have a loose crank bolt or balancer is worn out and wobbling I know about these pullys i make 10 % crank pullys
This isnt his 4.3L It's a supercoupe. Different car.
-Thomas
 
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