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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
shane did you oil the cylinders as well?
I had put some Total Seal Quick Seat on them. I couldn't really tell it was there though after wipping the cylinder walls down with it. I think some of it might have gotten wasked away when I cleans some assembly lube off the walls before installing the pistons yesturday.

Shane
 

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Is there something that I am over looking when dropping my hydraulic flat tappet lifters into the holes?

Shane
what year is the block aren't you suppose to have roller lifters?
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
what year is the block aren't you suppose to have roller lifters?
Its a '92 block. Stock it used roller lifters but I have since installed a hydraulic flat tappet cam instead so I am using flat tappet lifters as well.

Are the lifters going to far into their bores and binding up on the cam?

Shane
 

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Journals all had a big blob of assembly lube on them. I probably should have smeared it all around but I figured by turning the crank by hand would move the assembly lube around.

Randy,

I know you are extremely busy with the new born and building a new house but if you have any time to spare you should come out and take a look at this thing for me.

Shane
Shane,

As I said, I'm definitely not an expert. I bought my block as a short block so I didn't assemble the lower half.

With that said, Dode and Tbirdbrain may be the best pushrod expertise on this site that I know about (not dissing anyone else, I just know these two are on it). If they give you advice you need to follow it to the letter. The best I could offer in this case is just reading what someone else said to do.
 

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just a thought i don't know either:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Sometimes I wish I would have just gotten a short block instead but I wanted to build it all on my own. Oh well.

Shane
 

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Sometimes I wish I would have just gotten a short block instead but I wanted to build it all on my own. Oh well.

Shane
Hang in there. It will get worked out. Just try to make sure you don't damage the mating surfaces or machined parts so you don't have to spend a ton more money getting those things fixed.
 

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if i would of known the machine shop issue was going to happen, i woulda bought a crate as well
 

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I want a crate too and these are some of the main points. it's not so bad to add some parts that can be thrown in but precision parts no thanks:( The 5 spd rebuild was interesting enough
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
So far today I removed the lifters and the one roller rocker/pushrod length checker tool then tried turning the crank. No go :( :rolleyes: So Now atleast I know the problem lies now with the heads or the pistons. I have not a clue what kind of problems the heads being torqued could be causing. The only problem that I can think of is one of the pistons is hitting one of the heads and causing it not to turn. Though I tried turning the crank the opposite dirrection and it still would not turn.

Anyone have any ideas as to what my problem could be? I am just throwing ideas out when I say this but would a warped head cause my problem? My heads should not be warped, they are almost brand new but purchased off ebay with about 1k miles on them total.

Here in a little bit I am going to go back and remove the heads and check to see if I can still turn the crank like I previously could.

Shane
 

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Did you ever get the plastigage and check the rod to crank bearing clearances???
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Did you ever get the plastigage and check the rod to crank bearing clearances???
No I did not. When I took all the pistons back out of it and realized that they were all in the wrong order and the caps were not on the correct rods I just paired them together and put the pistons in the correct holes. It turned fine after that so I did not think to use the plastigage.

Shane
 

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So the motor turned fine once the pistons and rods were correctly installed? This problem started once the heads were bolted on?

With the rockers off does the motor turn? If so there is a piston to valve clearance problem.

Even if the pistons were out of the hole .005 the head gasket would keep the pistons from hitting the heads.

What about the timing chain? Is it the correct one? The wrong cam gear could possibly bind the cam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
So the motor turned fine once the pistons and rods were correctly installed? This problem started once the heads were bolted on?

With the rockers off does the motor turn? If so there is a piston to valve clearance problem.

Even if the pistons were out of the hole .005 the head gasket would keep the pistons from hitting the heads.

What about the timing chain? Is it the correct one? The wrong cam gear could possibly bind the cam.
The rockers, pushrods, and lifters are not on the motor and it wont turn. None of the valves are open.

The rotating assembly did turn with the gear drive and cam put in prior to the heads being put on.

I am getting fed up with this block/rotating assembly. I am tempted to find another stock short block that has some miles on it, not touch the bottom end at all and just throw all my topend parts on it and run the piss out of it.

I really want to run what I have now but I am starting to run out of ideas.

Shane
 

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did you take the heads off and try to spin the assembly again?
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
did you take the heads off and try to spin the assembly again?
Nope, ran out of time today. Tomorrow morning I will and once I find out I will report back.

Shane
 

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you did replace all of the con rod bearings now that you have the halves correctly paired right? Was the block machined for the gear drive (as so many of the gear drives require)?
 

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yea dont get me started on gear drive issues
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
you did replace all of the con rod bearings now that you have the halves correctly paired right? Was the block machined for the gear drive (as so many of the gear drives require)?
Most of the rod bearings looked good still so I reused those but a few of them had scuffs and scars so I replaced them with new.

The block was not machined for a gear drive. All the dirrections for the gear drive called for was the timing cover be modified so that it will sit flush with the block and not interfear with the gear drive.

Shane
 

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Here's what I would do:

1. Remove everything except the crank, rods, and pistons and see if it rotates freely (I would still plastigage at least one rod bearing and one main bearing just so you know the clearances)
2. Install the camshaft and make sure it rotates freely in its bore
3. Install the gear drive setup and see if the crank/camshaft rotates freely.
4. Install one head (make sure the plugs are out) at a time and see if it rotates freely.
5. Install one intake and exhaust lifter/pushrod/rocker arm and see if you are getting piston to valve interference.

Basically all you're doing is assembling one part at a time and then testing. Whichever part keeps it from rotating will have identified your problem.

Just my .02. :thumbsup:
 
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