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Not trying to be rude here, but I don't see how this could happen without knowing the cause. I always spin the crank after mains are in and check side clearance on the rods. I torque everything and spin it again before installing the heads or timing chain. Having overhauled hundreds of motors I can feel if something isn't right.

Since there is a cheapo gear drive involved that would be my #1 culprit. The timing cover comes off alot easier than the heads so start there. I hate dual idler gear drives...
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Not trying to be rude here, but I don't see how this could happen without knowing the cause. I always spin the crank after mains are in and check side clearance on the rods. I torque everything and spin it again before installing the heads or timing chain. Having overhauled hundreds of motors I can feel if something isn't right.

Since there is a cheapo gear drive involved that would be my #1 culprit. The timing cover comes off alot easier than the heads so start there. I hate dual idler gear drives...
Ok so today I went over to the garage, took the heads off and to throw another twist into this whole project the motor now WONT turn without the heads on it where just three days ago it would :confused: :confused: :confused: . Since you guys think the gear drive is the cause I was going to take the timing cover off it and remove it and see what happens but my balancer remover tool is broke from when my neighbor removed the stock balancer off another 5.0L that I have so I was going to wait to continue till tomorrow morning.

My plan of attach is to yank the gear drive and see if it turns then. If it does I am going to return the gear drive and get a double roller timing chain instead.

Shane
 

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Gear Drive

What is the reason you want a gear drive? They are noisey (which is why some people choose them), expensive, and a PITA. Some how I missed your build had one. Timing chains are so much more straight forward. Hopefully that's your issue, there is an easy fix for that.
 

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Also a gear drive has more frictional losses than a regular double roller chain, so you will make more power with the cheaper and simpler chain than with the expensive and complicated gear drive.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
What is the reason you want a gear drive? They are noisey (which is why some people choose them)
That was my reason for wanting the gear drive. :rolleyes:

Shane
 

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i didn't notice gear drive part either
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Pic of the gear drive. Its a Jegs unit.



Shane
 

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yank the gear drive and see what ya got.. if it spins.. get a chain
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Problem solved guys. I had a completely different problem related the the rod caps. Its been corrected and now it turns freely. I even put the heads back on it and it did not take any more effort to turn it over. Now its time for a new cam and pushrods and I'll be able to get this motor all put together.

Mike,

Thanks for coming over with your dad to help me out that one night. You guys were spot on with the problem.

Shane
 

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Problem solved guys. I had a completely different problem related the the rod caps. Its been corrected and now it turns freely.
Don't bother to admit what the problem was... just leave us hanging. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Don't bother to admit what the problem was... just leave us hanging. :rolleyes:
I had two 5.0L shortblocks in all of this, one stock bore and one .30 over bore. I started out with the stock bore shortblock until I found out that one of the pistons had a crack going straight up the skurt. So then I bought the .30 shortblock. When originally assembling the .30 over shortblock I noticed that some of the rod caps had some surface rust on them but the other rod caps from the standard bore shortblock looked nice and clean. So I swapped them which ultimately became my problem but I did not realize it at the time. Mike and his father came over to help me with it and braught it to my attention that I could not do what I did. So after I corrected my problem the .30 over shortblock now turns freely.

Shane
 

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Thanks for the explanation. I'm glad the mystery is solved and you can get on with building your engine. :thumbsup:

That was very cool of them to come over and take a look at it with you.
 

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Glad it worked out for you Shane. I would have been worthless on something like that since I have no experience with building the bottom end.
 

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so you mismatched the rod cap ends with the rods themselves? each from a different engine?

did you know was was 30 over? even if it was, that is usually just the pistons and the cylinders no? unless it was stroked over too?
 

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And if he had used plastigage like he should have he would have found the problem the minute he tightened down the rod caps!!!

Maybe if people would actually listen to the people they ask questions from, things would go much easier for them. Plastigage was mentioned in post #3!!! :thumbsup:

Just out of curiosity, have any of your connecting rods been resized or at least checked? :2huh:
 

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Please see my post of 02-07-07
Not only is it important that each cap stay with it's rod, but the numbers refer to location and should be readable when the engine is upside down on the stand. In other words, number side down towards ground installed.

Caps are final fitted to a specific rod. Mixing caps is a sure fire way to lock it up as the holes that are formed by the cap and rod are not necessarily aligned and round any more.

Get some plastigage as others mention, and a good book on overhauling your engine would be well worth the bucks.

Also, make sure you are in fact using std. bearings on a std. crank. If any doubt at all, take them with you to a machine shop and have them miced and checked against specs. A bearing for a ground crank will be thicker than a std bearing.

Lastly, make sure the rods and caps are dry and clean where the bearing shell sets, and that the bearing is dry on back and that tab is in notch. Only swipe a bit of oil on face of bearing as you install against crank journal.
If you aren't going to read the several posts that others take time to compose that answer the questions you asked, then why post the questions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
If you aren't going to read the several posts that others take time to compose that answer the questions you asked, then why post the questions?
See when I read that what I got from it was that each cap had to stay with its same numbered rod not that each and every connecting rod cap/rod combo is different even if the numbers are the same.

Shane
 

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A bad assumption... one that plastigage would have quickly brought to light.
 

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i believe the caps and connecting rods are missmatched , i did it before on a buick when we cleaned up the piston and connecting rods it was very hard to turn. we went ahead and finished and the engine did start and run for about ten seconds and seized.the plasiguage does work, but if one connecting rod is mismatched with the cap there is going to be a problem, and what you are describing is exactly what we experienced.
 
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