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I'm unaware of a front wheel drive manual transmission that will bolt to a 4.6; maybe you could educate us?
 

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What about the Taurus SHO trans? The Continental is based on the Taurus, and I know the early SHO 5-speed trans can be swapped into a regular Taurus, or even into the 96-99 V8 SHO's, so the Continental might share that bell housing.
 

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What about the Taurus SHO trans? The Continental is based on the Taurus, and I know the early SHO 5-speed trans can be swapped into a regular Taurus, or even into the 96-99 V8 SHO's, so the Continental might share that bell housing.
Seems like the V8 SHOs were the Ford Duratec bell housing pattern and that's different from the Continental DOHC modular block:
2.5L/3.0L/3.5L Duratec V6
3.4L DOHC SHO V8


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If the goal is Modular V8 -> FWD Manual transmission for a RWD Escort wagon.

Here's one way to solve it

Ford Modular or 302 V8 -> Porsche G50 transaxle
https://www.kennedyeng.com/8-cylinder-engine-list

You can make it a midengined setup.
 

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Hey wildturkey,

I have that same radiator ready to install in my '97, because I live in southwest texas where the heat will melt your junk before you get where you're going. What is your synopsis of that unit?
 

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I thought a conti V8 would boltup to a 4r70W; but there's no possible way to make a mount for the right side.

There's no bosses, and it looks different.

I spent a couple of hours looking at one I could have got for nearly free; If I'd known about the conti cams back then, I'd have jumped on it.
(Opportunity does knock occasionally. But he knocks Lightly.)

The bolt pattern looked good to me.

The "no way to mount it" was the prob.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Hey wildturkey,

I have that same radiator ready to install in my '97, because I live in southwest texas where the heat will melt your junk before you get where you're going. What is your synopsis of that unit?

I absolutely love it. That unit will compliment most any performance upgrades, and towing ability would be greatly enhanced to pull up to a 6x12 trailer or even another car provided the tongue weight was kept below 350lb/gross 3500lb.
 

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I absolutely love it. That unit will compliment most any performance upgrades, and towing ability would be greatly enhanced to pull up to a 6x12 trailer or even another car provided the tongue weight was kept below 350lb/gross 3500lb.
Could you post a pic of how you got the fan shroud mounted? I believe you said something about spacers, but after trying to install mine this past week I found my passenger side with a gap and the driver side needing spacers/adapters.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Sorry I just saw your post. On the right side I put a 1/4 inch spacer between the back of the fan assembly and the radiator post. On the left I put a 1.25 inch spacer between the back of the fan assembly and the radiator post. I also had to cut and bend the lower brackets to help hold the lower tabs in place.
You know if we would have spent the coin for the Fluidyne we wouldn't have to fret about this kind of stuff, Hah.
Read ya Later, Nick
 

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You know if we would have spent the coin for the Fluidyne we wouldn't have to fret about this kind of stuff, Hah.
Lol probably true, but I can't find a fluidyne model for our cars only for mustangs. But hey, what's a couple headaches to save $200, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I mentioned I was working on working on 5.0 BOSS block with a Coyote a while back. The past 6 months have grueling in not allowing much time to work on the project but it looks right at home. Talk about ground pounding, with open headers, it's deafening. This is the most aggressive N/A motor I've ever built and I 'm a bit skittish of the beast. She's got 224 degree cams dialed in at 109 intake/ exhaust. I've got a some more work before taking her up for the new exhaust. but it's coming along.

I do have an issue with IMRC. The IMRC's are open by default. I am also using a MSD Digital window box. This is how it's suppose to work...
When I start the engine the short runner butterflies close by the MSD window switch suppling ground to the IMRC box and when it revs above 3500 rpm the ground is removed to the controller and open the butterflies and below 3500 regain ground and close the butterflies. It starts out ok but give it gas and the IMRC box goes open then close, then open. It's all over the map. It may be is the MSD window switch. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Read ya later, Nick
 

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You don't want a Window switch; it opens during a certain RPM window, then closes above the window.

You want an RPM switch that opens, and stays open over ~3000-3500 rpm.

That's your problem, the whole 'window' thing.

Nice build!

You can probably change the 'upper end' of the window over your Rev limit, and be fine.
I'd try that first.

EDIT: is that where the imrc's are on the cobra head? I guess I thought they were more like my 98 intake's imrcs.
 

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You don't want a Window switch; it opens during a certain RPM window, then closes above the window.

You want an RPM switch that opens, and stays open over ~3000-3500 rpm.

That's your problem, the whole 'window' thing.

Nice build!

You can probably change the 'upper end' of the window over your Rev limit, and be fine.
I'd try that first.

EDIT: is that where the imrc's are on the cobra head? I guess I thought they were more like my 98 intake's imrcs.
That's the FR500 intake, not Cobra
 

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That's the FR500 intake, not Cobra
OK; I thought I'd seen the Cobra heads, and the imrc's were just like the ones I had.

Aren't the FR500 intakes magnesium? :)

Wildturkey; go change the upper window, and take it for a drive!!
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Yep, it's magnesium.
I had change the coil packs to "COP", coil on plug, and found one of the COP's cracked so I replaced it. That COP happen to be the opposite on the waste spark set up. That may have some bearing on dilemma with the digital window switch, we shall see.
Read ya later, Nick
 

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Where your trigger is coming from may be an issue, but putting a test light there should give you some indication of the problem.

The waste spark hits at half the speed of the rpms, iirc.

So you need to see where rpm wise it's opening and closing.

A window is a window; I used a window comparator to discriminate energy pulses in PET scanners at a million counts per second, looking only for 511keV pulses, lol.

That's a little different. :)

If it's reading 10k rpm at 5k, adjust the windows to match; this ain't rocket science.
If it's flaky look for a better signal.
 
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