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Discussion Starter #41
The window switch's ground is what's jumping around. I've wired it correctly, it came with the manifold, may be due replacing.
Read ya later, Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #42
The window switch was the problem. I got a new one all is hooked up.

The next problem

I just dropped in some 4.10 gears and will need to figure out the dip switch settings to calibrate the speedometer.

Read ya later, Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Thank you sir, the speedcal page is especially helpful since the transmission setup was already installed.

Read ya later, Nick
 

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That's really cool. I'd like to see the under car routing to see how you got the pipes there.

Great work. Very clean and unique design. I've never seen that done on a Tbird before.

I'd also love to hear it!
 

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Discussion Starter #48
No, I didn't have to get into the trunk. It works out that the 94-02 Camaro exhaust is wide enough to go around the trunk. I did have to remove the rear bumper, bracing and cut some 2.7 holes to allow the pipe pass through. It was tight but worked out. I bought the Mandrel bent exhaust to help my exhaust but he didn't use the "S"s behind the differential. There's a lot of heat coming from those rear tips, I'm going to need some more space or some metal between the plastic and the exhaust tips.

I don't think I should have installed the 4.10. All the sudden I have a tremendous amount of low end torque with the new exhaust, no problem shredding tires, eh, and I'm still yet to have her tuned. She's having a difficult time idling below 1100 rpm, but I'll work on getting a sound clip, soon. I can tell you that the revs come on fast with the 109/109 intake/exhaust cam timing, not all that loud but very unique.

Read ya Later, Nick
 

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Buy some of the ceramic fiber insulation board from Lowes, cut it to fit, then spray it black with exhaust manifold paint.
you can cut small pieces to go between the bumpercover and the pipes, and glue them to the cover.

It won't melt the cover at all; I've seen glowing red pipes go thru that fiberboard, and it never affected the paint on the sheetmetal.

There needs to be no line of sight to the plastic; the insulation needs to cover it, or the IR you can't see will still melt it.
 

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I took her up town to put on the new exhaust. It's a wonder I didn't get pulled over. I'm hope this setup doesn't melt the bumper, I put some insulation and shielding to help protect.
Read ya later, Nick

I resorted to a metal plate under Cougie's exhaust after melting it a bit. A nice ring with a lip would work maybe. I'd probably bend some doorway entrance floor trim.

Looks really cool as usual.

-Scott
 

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Hey wildturkey! Im new to this community amd i havent ever been on a forum but i learn a lot from you tccoa guys. I was wondering if you still sell your coyote 5.0 crank swap kit for the 4.6?
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Yes, I do.
Introducing the
4.75 Modular Crankshaft Kit
Want a Kellogg forged crankshaft capable of over 1000HP for you next modular build? Look no further, We have assembled a kit that will allow you the flexibilty to install the aftermarket parts of your choosing, specific to your modular block. This kit contains;
1. Kellogg Forged Crankshaft machined to fit the Windsor, Romeo and Teksid Ford 4.6 Modular Block and Boss 5.0 Modular
2. Balancer Washer, Bolt and Key
3. Coyote rear main bearing, thrust washer and insert
4. Crankshaft Flywheel/Flexplate Spacer
Using this crankshaft in your block a stroker piston will be required. At this time, DSS is 4032 & 2816 alloy and Manley 2816 alloy via MMR produce
such items in 2,3 and 4 valve arrangements and various compression ratios.
37912
 

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It's really a beautifully designed kit. I have an 03 Grand Marquis that im hoping to setup with about 400hp na hopefully to the ground. Maybe toss in a 150 shot. Looking for 12:1 compression and tuning with hp tuners. I would love the piece of mind of having fully forged internals but i dont need support over 750hp, and 7500rpm trying to produce good top end while retaining some decent midrange torque considering these engines aren't producing torque until into the 3000rpm range. I am planning on sticking to the 2v 4.6 and the auto 4r70 I hope to learn more from yall in the near future wish me luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #54
You will be hard pressed to make 300 HP with a 2V 4.6. You might get up to 325HP with 12:1 C.R. but air flow is your restriction. Nitrous will carry you up there, but unless you change out the heads to Trick Flows you could launch a plug into your hood. My best to you on what ever you build. I like to build as well to prove I can, saying that, occasionally there are lessons leaned the costly way.

I was hard pressed to make 394HP with a Boss50 block, 11.5:1 CR pistons, my crank kit, FR500 intake, CNC ported 4V heads, 224 duration Cams, Kooks Headers and backed with a Tremec 3650. It rolls up to 7500RPM, No problemo.

If you want consistent 400+HP to the rear wheels on a 2V modular with auto trans you need to build a forged bottom end, slap on some trick flows heads and supercharge it with a Jonse Speed Lab or a Tork Tech set up with 12+lbs of boost. If you boost under 9-10lbs you could opt for just the superchager to get you to 400HP on a solid factory engine. beyond that you'll want a forged bottom end and TF heads.

Read ya later, Nick
 

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Well if i was gonna boost it, i would run a turbo setup. More understanding setup in that realm. Not a fan of superchargers. They're just not reliable and damage the motor more than anything. I think with my understanding and learning of the different tuning systems i think i could baseline a decent tune and then rework it and massage this setup. I know the heads are restrictive and I've looked into the tfs 195 track heat heads and they are pretty stout. Ive also been looking into off brand cam specialist for these motors. I think controlling more duration and dialing in ignition and fuel trims. These things are capable of close to 420hp at the flywheel. Stock bore and stroke. P&P on the heads will either be done by myself or fox lake racing. They have a really nice stage 2 that clears .600 lift cams. My only concern is my internal setup. Im not very experienced with internals so I've been looking fairly in depth on this subject and i always seem to trip over this forum because I'm a fairly big ford fan. I also have an 03 f150 with the 4.2. It is dead as of now. Planning a 3v 4.6 build for it.
 

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Boost is boost, the engine doesn’t know or care whether it came from a turbo or a supercharger, and there is nothing inherently unreliable about a supercharger. The tork-tech kit is the easiest and cheapest way of achieving your goal of 400hp. As for the heads, any porting work on stock heads is a complete waste of time and money now that the trick flows exist. The best ported stock heads are still 50+cfm shy of the trick flows, and a home ported one is definitely not going to flow enough to get you to 400hp.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
325 RWHP divide by .80 parasitic drag equals 406HP to the flywheel.

Read ya later, Nick
 

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Well what i mean about superchargers 1: they take power to create power. Turbo boost is recycled power 2: They put a lot of stress on the crank snout and cause a strange imballance in the motor. I've heard many a time that people have had their crank split like watermelon. 3: They are just plain over priced for what you get. Too much work for not enough return. 4: the most commonly used superchargers for these motors is the m90 and the m112 neither of which are practical for the amount of rpms i want to churn. Idk about the others mentioned but i just plainly do not like superchargers.
 

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Yeah...there’s too much wrong information in that post for me to even try correcting all of it. If you want to go turbo, more power to you, but there are many reasons why superchargers exist and continue to sell in large volumes for a multitude of cars. I can tell from that response that you never even looked at the Tork-tech kit that was suggested. We are trying to make your life easier based on your stated power goals, and knowing full well that your current plan won’t get you anywhere close to them.
 

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I have not looked into them because of my personal experience qith superchargers and the experience I've read on them. I do want to try and see how much i can get from a properly tuned and balanced 4.6. Power adders qill come later. If i send a rod or a plug at mach 9 to outer space, so be it. I like to learn feom experience and i do love yo ask questions. So i know that you know your stuff, i just like to keep things in respect of my own experience. I appreciate your advice!
 
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