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Discussion Starter #1
anyone got any advice on repairing a slight bit of curb rash on the bead lip of a painted factory wheel?

ive got a set of 1F22-1007-AC



but they are slightly rashed in places and ive been doing a bit of research to find a decent method of filling the deeper rash and matching paint on them. some people recommend metal filler puttys and fine sanding, etching primers, and completely painting the wheel since its devilishly hard to match the metal flake.

i was just wondering if theirs an easier method of doing this without painting the whole wheel, i mean the paints perfect everywhere else but the bead ridge...

its like the person driving the van was bouncing off curbs all day and night with it till they finally smashed into somebody + somebody else smashed into them...
(how the van looked when i dug the rims out of it and the local picNpull...)

one of the rash marks is about 6" long and maybe 1/8" deep. i'm not sure metal filler would hold up if the wheel weight ended up needing to be hammered onto it. don't have a tig welder or i would just fill it with alum rod and be done with it...

anyway, i figure somebody has got to have some decent body work knowledge here that could maybe give us some pointers and some products to look at for alloy wheel repair. im definitely no expert on primers and paints...
 

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Fixing them will be tough... It would be easier and cheaper to replace the damaged wheels i'd imagine.
You could sand them with various grits until you get it close but they will never be perfect and then you would have to try and blend in paint, which you know is tough with metal flake.
Powdercoating them is an option but thats $$$ and trying to fix them is time, which is more $$$.
 

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If its just on the lip around the edge I think you could get away with sanding and painting it, but if you're out in the spokes of the wheel, I agree with bagged95, matching that metallic without doing the whole wheel will not look right.


If you want to try, you could ask a dealership what the paint code is. Some places (like NAPA) will custom mix paints for you in aerosol, if you don't have a spray gun.
You'll want to break your tape line in a natural line of the wheel to minimize the line, and not try to blend just a little spot. I would paint the whole little edge around the outside where the wheel weights clamp on.
When painting metallics you want light thin coats, not a thick one. (thick coats "kill" the metallic effect and make the paint look bland)
Top it with a coat or two of clear.
Remember: take your time, the finished product of a paint job is only as good as the prep work.
 

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Make sure they are straight and true before you put a bunch of time & money into them!

Also, make sure they are not cracked - I've seen rims come in the shop that were cracked enough that they leaked air THROUGH THE RIM!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yeah, i do have the option of looking for a better set, but that would require driving another 100+ miles just to look at them. and theirs no guarantee that set is any better.

and cheaper? nah, buying a set of brandnew ones would be around 150+ each. and i got these for 50. if all else fails they looks near perfect even with the small rashes. ill probably use them the way they are and deal with it. i just hate to trade a set of perfect 95 fanblades for something subpar. even if it dose mean i can get tires in the size i want much easier, and cheaper...

i thought about painting the whole rim lip just to make it uniform. but unfortunately the dealers don't keep paint codes for rims, and they couldn't seem to tell me what exactly they painted these things with...

then i just need to figure out what I'm going to fill those rash marks with.

i do have one wheel... the best non-rashed wheel unfortunately... that has a nice gouge next to the center cap... pretty sure it was because some idiot had thrown this wheel into the van, and then tossed the driver seat on top of it. (which is where i found it) the metal framework under the seat most likely scraped the heck out of it...

also their is a guy in town here that repairs wheels, i haven't looked him up yet because i have herd its extremely expensive, and only really worth the money on rims you paid a fortune for...

and one of the first things i planed on doing was getting them to my fathers shop to spin up on the balancer to check for straightness. i already looked over all the wheels after a thorough cleaning and didn't find any cracks. that's where i started noticing all the damage when the mud came off >.>
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
well, its not perfect, but its good enough for government work. just some JBweld, a file, some fine grit sandpaper, and some 'celeb city 220' nail polish, :D i was able to take this:



to this:



to this:



to this:



now i figure I'll spray some clear over it, and call it a day.

also: fixed the images so its the same rim, had the wrong completed one up their at first.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
:cool: thanks, i hope they will look OK, and with the new life I've given them i can run em for quite a while.

just wish finger nail polish didn't dry so fast... if you keep brushing at it to spread it out it starts to dry immediately and then you start dragging lumps of it around the surface. :D

their such pretty rims, i would have hated seeing them pitched in a bin, to be made into aluminum cans >.>
 

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An old trick with anything like that, that dries to fast is to add a bit of thinner. IF it is water based use water , if it is enamel based use.... well any thinner lol some work better than others. It still looks like it came out great.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thinner eh? ill remember that. some lady told me finger nail polish is supposed to dry fast, so they don't have to stand their blowing on their nails for hours XD

and yeah, its should stand up to a glance from a few feet away, but if you got real close you can see some imperfections.

its all good, if all else fails ill mount some studded snow-tires on them and buy another perfect set for summer weather :rofl:
 
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