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Discussion Starter #1
Well as some of yall might now I was in a wreck back at the beginning of the month here are some pics of the damage.





Now let's get yall's opinion on this the other person's was at fault an her insurance (Allstate) set out an adjuster putting the damage at $4200 w/ 48hrs labor. My body shop (where the car sits right now) puts damage at less than $2800 (oddly enough he has another 96 XR-7 there with the same same damaged panels, well oppisite side).

Who is more reasonable?
 

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Full Metal
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hmmm, video and images forum, maybe, but if the allstate people will give 4200 for it without totalling it i'd cash the check, have it fixed at the cheaper guys body shop and then go buy me a big screen tv and maybe have enough left over for a case of beer and pizza with the difference.
 

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I agree with Chorizon, take that high quote from her insurance company. Cash the check, have the repair done at your body shop and use the left over money for whatever you want.... don't consider anything else :D

-Trey
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If needs to be in Video/Image forum I apologize just posted pics to better show damage, is why I used the smaller images.

The $4025 is complete value of vehicle. Orginally at the $3300 value they said ~$2500 would be max of repair without total. Now they have the value at $4025 and a damage estimate at <$2800.

I was mainly posting to see which estimate sounds more resonable. Personally I've used this shop before and trust him 100% but a second opinion is always nice.
 

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strategize-
if you're going to keep the car, who cares if it gets totaled out- take the check for the value minus the 100 bucks for the salvage value, fix it, and get an r-title later if you want to sell it.

plus- your mother can't tell you to sell it cause it's too loud- because no one would buy a salvaged car anyway! ... she might believe that. mine does.
or, that least that's what i'm doing with my SC. i ended up making quite a bit off the deal, since i do my own body work.
 

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100... I wish MINE was 100... they charged my *** 700 dollars to get my car back. Thank God for low mileage... I still came out on top though. Talk the Insurance company up. Its not as hard as you think. Get some quotes from some dealers (pics of the vehicle undamaged would be preferable LOL) and then send in NADA value and why you feel the vehicle is valued at a certain price. normally they will take a hundred bux off that and cut you a check minus the fees.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well in GA you must have your vehicle inspected by the DOT and State Patrol, further I believe most insurances here will not insure a Slavaged vehicle, since GA is not a consumer friendly state.
As far as value they are right in line with NADA, but no matter I should have the completed estimate from my body shop tomorrow morrowing at which time we will see what happens.
I have plenty of experience talking to Insuracne companies (this is about my 8 wreck--none of them my fault), I just get irrated with lazy adjusters that just want to total vehicles as opposed to doing their job. People like this help keep our rates higher.

ModusPonens since you say you do bodywork, does that look like 48hrs of labor to you (excludeing wheels, for they are being handled elsewhere for $100 a wheel)? The only way I can imiainge that much time is if drying time is inclued and each part is done consecitivly.
 

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they are doing their job. The take these cars and total them out. They fix them up and then sell them again in sn auction... what exactly is the damage done here... I had to have a new hood, fender, lower control arm, wheel, headlight panel, headlight and corner and paint and all that good stuff and it only cost me 3200 dollars.... I'm assuming it bent the front axle or something?
 

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actually, with mine they took out 75 bucks for the salvage value. it was insulting, if you ask me. mine's a 93 though. and i don't think they considered the SC part.

my beautiful wreck is still insured with no problems... i just can't get full coverage on it.. only liability. who cares when it sits in a downdraft booth for two months.

did you get a copy of the estimate? it should be mulitiple pages outlining everything that must be replaced, repaired, and removed/reinstalled. what totalled my car out was the suspension damage- according to the body shop (wasn't my fault so i wasn't going to fix it myself before i found out it was totalled) i took it to, my insurance company would only allow NEW OEM parts to be used, and when IRS is hit, pretty much everything on that side must be replaced in order to insure that the vehicle is safe. they quoted i had over 2000 worth of suspension parts costs... HAH... after a couple hours on the frame straightener, i changed the upper control arm (rear-end, drivers side) and everything lined up perfectly. i was really lucky.

sometimes they force the totalling out of vehicles, especially older ones. then sell at auction or sell to a junk yard.
you need: new fender, bumper cover. headlight, corner light. might replace both headlights to match if one is cloudy. hood is questionable- most places would replace it.. the real question is- what is the hidden damage? bumper reinforcement? wheel well? is the door lining up right? radiator supports? header panel? isn't the ABS box there- i think it is on my sc..? does the passenger's side fender still line up? alaignment issues- concerning suspension? if it was me i'd put it on a frame straightener first.. frame labor is about 90/hr in NJ. you can do things the expensive way or the cheap way. we must cover our bases when there is the possibility of uncovering damage not seen at the time of the estimate.

hah, and no complaining about high insurance rates unless you live in NJ!

as for 48 hours of labor? most of that stuff is judged by a series of books that tell the estimator how many hours something should take, not the estimator making up ****. actual time may be longer or shorter depending on the bodyman.
or, at least that's how we do things here.

sorry, that was long.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Having looked at the vehicle myslef and my body man going over it the only damage is Panels, the only hidden damage might be the driver hinges. As for the Hood he said (my guy) that he could probable fix it but will see. New OEM parts are not a requirement, though is probably what the adjuster quoted

Quite literally the only damage is what is seen, and now that I gave the shop the old wheels (so he can move it around) it is totally drivable (save the missing light and mirror).

I've had a similar issue before, and the shop said the adjust just looked at the car and walked away and turned it in as a total (total time there less than 5mins), and in the end it was not a total. I'm suspecting (though cant remember/prove) its the same adjuster and he just does not want to deal with it.
 

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yeah they told me the same thing about my hood... it was kinda bent down at the corner. Then they told me it couldn't be done and got a replacement hood. The hood was about 380 and it was pretty freakin clean. Came off a maroon car and it was in PERFECT condition. Sand blasted and repainted for me :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well Allstate didn't want to change thier mind since thier adjust said the Radiator Support, Fender shroud and headlight assembly are damaged (items my shop left off). Items that are not damage nor could the adjuster have examined the Rad support without the key which he didn't have, nor the fender shroud without raising the vehicle which would be hard with out good tires and a jack and stands.
Looks like I may have a case of Insurance fraud on my hands aganist him.
 

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yeah I have heard about All state not wanting to pay out and doing crazy ****... same with Nationwide... I will stick with Statefarm even though they love to total vehicles all the time.
 

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think about it this way- people are sue-happy. they have to cover their asses over the stupidest ****. only my upper control arm was damaged in my accident- (mind you this was the rear end hit) but what if there was damage to my lower control arm- if that huge piece of metal ended up cracking in half while i was driving, and i somehow get killed in that event- my insurance from is responsible for my death... ya know what i mean? very unlikely, but who wants to risk anything going wrong when they can just take the car off the road? that's stretching it a bit with your accident, but it's the same really dumb reason why my car was totalled.
insurance adjusters look at the car- and if it's over 6-10 years old depending on value- they'll want to total it out no matter how little damage there really is. also keeps people buying new cars... that require full coverage or more expensive premiums and more money goes to insurance in the long run. make sense?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I understand what your saying Mod, but what irrates me is I offer (at the suggestion of my Insurance, Progressive) to sign a P.D. form, for those that don't know it waves the insurance of any future liability once the payout for the estimated repairs is made, but they said no.
Well in an attempt to get some where I (at the advice of Allstate) I called the adjuster (something they have not done) to discuss the "extra" items he listed. Lets just say he wasn't happy, for either me calling him and not Allstate or the fact that I questioned his estiamte (nevermind the fact I have a man with 20+yrs experience backing me up)--though I didn't get into disputing labor hours or part cost I keep just on those 3 items.

All the while Allstate keeps racking up a rental bill.
 

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Get some panels used, then have them do the work. Shouldn't be that high, unless there's frame damage.



Replaced the taillight ($25 shipped) and brother fixed the rest in class. He needs to do some bondo work to fix the little dents, then paint it, but it's mostly fixed for $25.

Looks like you need mirror, hood, bumper, fender and signal; about $1000 in parts, if used including an aftermarket hood. Paint left side, hood, and bumper, about $1000. Tires, about $200? New wheels, about $400? All depends where you go, and what exactly needs to be replaced. I could probably get my brother to fix the body with paint and stuff for about $300 plus parts. WTH, I could get full paint for $500-600 (planning on painting Bronco, but wanna do Durabak coating for about $250 for coating plus other costs).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thats what I and my shop basiclly figured up, now just waiting on my insurance (since Allstate is not budging from thier total claim) to look at it and cut me/him a check.

Hope to have it back my the end of next week.
 
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