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· Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
what is the bolt and thread size i need to thread into the 3 small bolt holes?

m8x1.25 is a wee bit too big and m7 is a wee bee too small

any idea?

thanks.
 

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do you have underdrive pullies on it???
 

· Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
nope

thry to remove the stock one from the explorer motor and that have the same size as the stock tbird one.

any idea?
 

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Bolts for removing a damper

Try using the long front cover bolt/studs that hold the coil bracket or P/S reservoir on.... They are the same thread and pitch as the damper puller holes and have a big face to securely hold to the puller ears.
 

· Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
got it, my problem is i just use hand and i'm a small guy. put a wrench on it and it goes right in.

the the problem is the middle 18mm dampener bolt. bfh won't break it lose with breaker bar. doesn't have access to air tools and what are my options?
 

· Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well, unless i go out and buy one which i don't have the excess fund for, then i'm pretty much screwed huh?
 

· Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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Crank bolt

If you have the engine out and pull the pan you can use a 3/8" extention in one of the crank counterweight balance holes to hold the crank (wedged against the block skirt) to hold the crank so you can break the bolt loose. If not maybe pull the inspection plate for torque converter access and wedge a screwdirver in there to hold the flex plate from turning.... It'll probably take two people that way though....
 

· Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
well, if i have to sit there all day using the cheapo electric one to break loose i will.

i don't care if the tool break or something but just need it to break loose.

that bolt is also taking a pb blaster bath right now.

the crank is secure and it will not moved now. just waiting to break that piece loose. close inspection that bolt is 10.9 grade and guess i will break other stuff first before i round off that bolt. lol
 

· Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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I used a big breaker bar. rested it on the driverside frame rail, turned the key, cranked the motor a 'tad (until I heard the breaker bar and socket fall onto the ground), got out and whala loose bolt.
"The lazy man always finds an easier way"- may not be the best way..but sure is easy...lol
 

· Fry Rice Specialist
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5,071 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
well, the think is this motor is sitting on an engine stand...
 

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mine was in the car and it wasnt hard to get out, for the water pump pulley and crank pulley i put a breaker bar on the tensioner and had someone pull back (to tighten up the belt more) pressed on the pulley with my hand to try and hold it anb i broke it loose with nothing fancy
 

· Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Porkchop said:
ohhh my jesus!!! yea that will do the trick, and for 30+ more bucks sounds good to me. the impact sockets will cost more than the gun lol

i just need to use a single 18mm socket for this job. have couple 18mm and some of them have lifetime warranty. will break them all if need to be, i just wanna bust that piece if bolt out whatever it takes.:D

my hand is all sore now for fighting with that bolt today for 45 minutes and it still won't bulge.
 

· Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
GreenBird said:
I got my crank bolt off with a 17" breaker bar and a good solid hit with a regular hammer.

well long 1" square tubing act as breaker bar and a 20oz hammer and a broken rachet and pb blaster soaked it is still smiling at me staying on there tight.
 
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