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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
well after 11 years of owning this car i have decided the route i wanted to go. i have an explorer engine sitting for years off to the side that keeps getting pushed a side due to all the other daily drivers and toys i have collected.
but before i start on that i have more parts and things id like to do.

i only drive the car on nice days so i don't need any fancy heat or ac. i do autocross,drag it and cruse it.

this winter i want to build seat brackets for these seats and a harness bar for four point seat belts.

-i also have pbr front calipers, drilled/slotted rotors all the way around,and stainless flex lines!

-i also want to remove the dash and get rid of anything i don't need back there but put it back after everything behind it is stripped. i want to remove all the heater controls and heater core. what lines will i need to run together on the intake for having no heater core?
- I have scrapped out the sound deadening from the trunk all the way to the front of the back seats Years ago. Now I'll do the front half. I have heard people use dry ice, anyone try that method?
-anything else that can be removed or any input just shoot a comment!
If my pictures /write ups don’t make 100% sense now it may be because photobucket ruined my pictures
 

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More pics






I put the carpet back over it also makes it cleaner
 

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Very clean. Thanks for sharing and keep us updated. How did you remove the sound insulation from under the back seat and trunk? Heat, dry ice, or just elbow grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Last time I used heat gun, scrapers, cookie disks, an it took forever! So On the front half I'm taking suggestions.
 

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Nice work. How did you get the insulation residue off of the metal so cleanly without damaging the paint after scraping the goop off?

Those seats look great. I so want to replace mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
-Like I said heat gun, scrapers, and cookie disks on an angle grinder. I primed and painted it after. I dont wanna do the front half like that tho it's kinda a pain.
- pretty excited about the seats. There tight fit but deff going keep my Butt from sliding around. I don't see many people on here just making a harness bar like I'm going to so I'll take bunch of pictures. (Seats are filthy in the pics)
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Here's a dark engine bay shot. Everything I took off has stainless hardware and is powder coated.


Made these braces based off of rods design. They make a heck of a difference

Rear end diff brace was cracked so doubled up the steel
Pcs cut and tacked into place

All welded and painted
 

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Even though you are mostly planning to autocross the car, it does sound like you plan on taking it to the drag strip and the danger of collision is much higher there than in a parking lot vs cones.

If you are keeping those recaros, I'd advise that you against 4 point harnesses and just stick with the factory belts.
Otherwise, consider installing a 5 point harness to prevent submarining. Noone likes crushed soft interior gut bits.

Advice from a company that sells harnesses....
6 Things You Need to Consider Before Buying Harnesses - OG Racing Blog point or 6 point
 

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I also remember reading somewhere here that if you are making the rear diff brace solid (seems like you added reinforcing metal as a taco around the rubber bits -- you could have also driven a bolt through it.), you need to add additional reinforcement for the diff cover as that then becomes the point of failure (i.e.: you can crack the mounting tab right off the aluminum diff cover).

From my notes (halfway down this post):
http://www.tccoa.com/forums/44-suspension/145031-recommended-suspension-bushings-mn12s-fn10s.html#post1502160
 

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Yup. That'll crack the mounting tab for sure. You'll want to reinforce the diff cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My diff cover has a diff cover brace on it. Harsh auto cross and some drag racing on it so far so good.
 

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More importantly you should solidify the front bushings too, otherwise something is going to flex and fatigue, brace or no brace.

Also have similar thoughts about the subframe connectors, as I did respectfully mention when racecougar did his. Connecting from front frame rails to the IRS, which is fully isolated from the unibody by compliant rubber bushings at each corner, will only net a better controlled IRS assembly, not a stiffened chassis.
 

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Yea, I've seen those crack too ... Of course it was a high RPM clutch drop that killed that rear end. It was a spectacular fail!

I'll look for the thread ... if Matt doesn't beat me to it. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ya I was on the look out for solid fronts at one time. Anyone know where to get some? I have poly fronts in now.
 

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S4Gunn uses Hockey pucks (for motor mounts at least). I'm pretty sure RobertP just welded his in place making them solid.

Anyway, here's the video I was talking about. I'll be back with pictures of the aftermath.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UAb8pDjfsEk?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

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Took me a few minutes but I found them:





 

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Discussion Starter #20
seat belt harness are only going to be used for auto cross not street or drag racing. I'm going to leave and make factory seat belts also work also due to not having a full cage.
 
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