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Discussion Starter #181
Look what came today...




That should help keep the headers from backing out.
 

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Discussion Starter #182
So as I'm getting the dead engine torn down, I start to wonder...
With the new stage two cams going in, should I get better valve springs? If so, what kind? Will the machine shop install them when they port the heads?
 

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Discussion Starter #184
If the Machine shop has the ability to remove them they have the ability to install them, there's nothing to it really. I'd definitely upgrade.
I'm seriously considering the MHS Stock Mod heads...

The MHS Stage Two PI Cams with TFS Adjustable gears, degree service, and the springs is $1000, and the shop near me who will port the heads/valve job is another $1000 to $1200.

The Stock Mod heads are $ bowl ported, have a multi angle valve job (is that a three angle?), the S2 cams, the TFS gears, degreed, and with the s2 springs we're looking at $1945.

I figure money is about the same, and they'll ship to me complete and ready to bolt on.
 

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Anyone know who ports MHS' stuff now?

Nick always said that had proven impossible to teach...
 

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Discussion Starter #186
Anyone know who ports MHS' stuff now?

Nick always said that had proven impossible to teach...
Jordan is the one who keeps replying to the emails, and they reply quick today. I'm getting responses right away.
 

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Discussion Starter #187
And the cause of death is...

Bearing failure on mains 2, 3, and 4. Possibly #5 as well, but I don't have a thin wall socket to get it off until later.

Here's pics.


Timing equipment looks great. I should be able to bolt this stuff onto the WAP block and re-use it right?






Should I be able to squeeze the tensioners by hand like this?



Chain guides look brand new. Should be re-usable, right?


This is my first tear down, but should there be that much residue on the pistons? What's the cause of that?


All valves are intact, heads appear good, head gaskets appear good. I think the heads are salvageable. I'm hoping that cracked cam girdle may be due to an overenthusiastic spring retainer install.







Bores look good and clean. I think i can sell the block as either a core or to someone who is going to rebuild it. I could get it bored and sleeved to 3.7", put in a stroker kit, TFS heads, and make some serious power down the road...


FINALLY! Some evidence! This is the main bearing cap #2.



More metal...


Main #1


Main Cap #1


Main #2, not good...


And it spun main bearing #2...


Cap #3 appears to be missing something...


Oh, there's the missing bearing!



That's not a good thing there...


And there's main bearing 3. Not good.

But, on the good news front, the heads look good, the block looks good, would need a new crank, new connecting rods, maybe I should get it big bored/sleeved and put in a stroker kit, get a nice 323ci powerhouse out of it while I drive the suped up Explorer motor.
 

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Yeah those heads look A-Ok, I'd pull the caps and check the cam bores to be sure. Piston tops always look like that, it's just carbon buildup.

Edit: and yes, the tensioners are compressible by hand, you're only acting against a spring, it won't be so easy to compress under oil pressure. Guides look fine to me as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #189
Yeah those heads look A-Ok, I'd pull the caps and check the cam bores to be sure. Piston tops always look like that, it's just carbon buildup.

Edit: and yes, the tensioners are compressible by hand, you're only acting against a spring, it won't be so easy to compress under oil pressure. Guides look fine to me as well.
I'll open them up tomorrow. Thanks for the word on the tensioners. I just stick a small screwdriver in and lock them back down with a paperclip right? Are they supposed to have a gasket on them?
 

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Ok, I'll finally speak up. :)

I have no idea what that thing is under the valve cover... I worked a lot of late nights, perhaps it snuck in while I was asleep standing up.

I'm thinking the water pump is the newer (2000 and up) version. I got a steal on the underdrives but they were for the newer water pump. Since I was putting a new pump in anyway I got one that fit the pullies.

There is a spacer under the plenum, forgot why it is there. There is a throttle body spacer. The TB and plenum I purchased were from a Mustang GT and there is a difference between the Tbird plenum and the Mustang Plenum. One longer and angled (I think the OEM onen is) The spacer is to make up that difference and make the throttle cables the right length.

Other than that I think you already know more than I ever did. Can't wait to see how it runs.

Edit: Oh yea, that sending unit in the block that wasn't connected to anything was for a mechanical temp gauge. The capillary line was broken while removing the engine.
 

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Looks like its rebuildable, either turn the crank or new, looks like all that is needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #193
Ok, I'll finally speak up. :)

I have no idea what that thing is under the valve cover... I worked a lot of late nights, perhaps it snuck in while I was asleep standing up.

I'm thinking the water pump is the newer (2000 and up) version. I got a steal on the underdrives but they were for the newer water pump. Since I was putting a new pump in anyway I got one that fit the pullies.

There is a spacer under the plenum, forgot why it is there. There is a throttle body spacer. The TB and plenum I purchased were from a Mustang GT and there is a difference between the Tbird plenum and the Mustang Plenum. One longer and angled (I think the OEM onen is) The spacer is to make up that difference and make the throttle cables the right length.

Other than that I think you already know more than I ever did. Can't wait to see how it runs.

Edit: Oh yea, that sending unit in the block that wasn't connected to anything was for a mechanical temp gauge. The capillary line was broken while removing the engine.
Thanks Traveler! The engine ran great up till I killed it (unintentionally). I'll be more careful about hose routing from now on that's for sure.

And look what came today just before I left for date night with my wife...



Going to mount the old manifolds onto the pipe, set these beside them, and measure up where to cut the pipes.
 

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Discussion Starter #194
Looks like its rebuildable, either turn the crank or new, looks like all that is needed.
That's what I was thinking too... May sell the block and try to recoup some money.
 

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Discussion Starter #195
I'm digging into the Explorer a little until my friend can come by and help me get it on the engine stand. I noticed a cut wire, very thin gauge, didn't look stock. It clearly isn't stock, was tied into the fuel rail plugin at the front of the driver side. Simply wrapped around a stripped section of the harness wire, and electrically taped on. It's on a long line, the ground wire was cut, but it's very long, looks like it fed into a grommet into the cabin.

Any ideas what it was there for?


 

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WAG, injector kill switch or engine running signal.
 

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Discussion Starter #197
Called Jordan at MHS today, got a set of StockMod heads with Stage 2 cams on their way to me, said I should have them in a week or so.

Getting closer!
 

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Discussion Starter #198
So now that the heads are on the way, here's my shopping list for gaskets/sensors...
Engine : Timing Cover Gasket Set
FEL-PRO TCS46064 Info


Engine : Oil Pan Gasket
FEL-PRO OS30725R {#3L3Z6710AA, OS34307R} PermaDry® Info


Engine : Valve Cover Gasket
FEL-PRO VS50564R PermaDry® Info

Engine : Intake Manifold Gasket
FEL-PRO MS96281 Set Info


Engine : Crankshaft Seal
TIMKEN 5277 {#E2ZE6701A4A, E6ZE6701A2A} Info

1997 FORD THUNDERBIRD 4.6L V8
Ignition : Camshaft Position Sensor
DELPHI SS10058 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info

Ignition : Crankshaft Position Sensor
DELPHI SS10875 {#1W7Z6C315AB} Info
I am getting the FRPP head changing kit from MHS, a Motocraft high volume oil pump from Ebay, and a closed vane water pump from the link earlier.

Am I missing anything?
 

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Discussion Starter #199
Headers are primed with VHT Flame Proof header primer. Iron Grey VHT Flame Proof will go on next, then cured in my old gas grill

 

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Discussion Starter #200
Is there any difference between the PI intake on the 2003 Explorer motor vs the PI intake off the Mustang that I currently have? The crossover has all the same port outlets on it as far as I can see.

Any performance difference, or are we good to swap?
 
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